AC NOT BLOWING COLD!!!! (SEARCHED)
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: port st lucie, fl
AC NOT BLOWING COLD!!!! (SEARCHED)
i just bought a 99 accord..AC was working fine for a couple hours.
as i drove it home..it stopped blowing cold!
i checkd the freon level and it was way high..so i released the whole thing and refilled it to the correct pressure..still nothing. also, if i start the car with ac on, it sometimes surges my idle..does anyone have any idea??
any help is appreciated..thanks
as i drove it home..it stopped blowing cold!
i checkd the freon level and it was way high..so i released the whole thing and refilled it to the correct pressure..still nothing. also, if i start the car with ac on, it sometimes surges my idle..does anyone have any idea??
any help is appreciated..thanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 779
Likes: 4
From: MIdwest City, ok, USA
I would like to mention to never buy the kind that has "stop leak" added. Only refrigerant, the proper oil, and UV dye is safe in your a/c system, regardless of what any advertising says.
Now there is really only 4 main things that are likely wrong with your system.
1. Moisture/air/low freon in the system. You can check this easily by looking at your receiver-drier. Look at the site glass on top of the drier. You will probably need to wipe it off to see through it. Now, if you see a million little bubbles, or a couple fat bubbles, then you obviously have either air in your line or you are low on freon. Check your pressure before topping off with freon. You do not want to overcharge. The safest way is to just drain the entire system and start from scratch, considering how cheap refrigerant is...where as if you overcharge and blow your compressor, thats gonna cost you $100 for a used on and several hundred for a new one, along with a new receiver/drier, new TXV/orifice tube, and if you are really unlucky, evaporator and condensor. Thats over $650 right there. Aparantly some AC systems don't have a site glass on the drier, so the only way to check is to check your low and high side pressures. Below 30psi LOW and 150psi HIGH is undercharged.
2. Your thermal expansion valve or TXV is not properly functioning. If debris got in your line, it can clog the valve, or it may just stop working. This is a $33 dollar autozone item you can replace while the system is open. When you open the system, you will also need to replace the receiver drier, because it absorbs moisture and will become saturated one you open the lines, making it useless. That is another $30 dollar item. Not to say that it instantly will absorb all moisture and become useless, however after if it is more than 2 years old you should replace it anyway, or if the drier was exposed to air for more than a day. Now if you suspect a leak in the line, you should hold off on replacing the drier until you fix the leak, unless you want to buy another drier while you open the line up and fix the leak.
If debris is caught somewhere in the line, it will cause premature expansion of the refrigerant. You will be able to tell this by checking the hot line for an immediate cold spot. Thats where the debris is located which needs to be flush out. When flushing you line, you CAN NOT flush through the compressor or thermal expansion valve. Most of the time flushing through the condensor will not clear the debris because it will just flow right past it.
3. Your compressor is bad. Unlikely though. If your pressure stays stable while the a/c is on and the pressure is within 25-50 cold side and 150-200 high side, normally that means its good. If the clutch spins with no grinding then that is a good sign.
4. You have a leak in your line and the system will not hold a charge. FIRST AND FORMOST, replace the valve cores on the high and low side nipples. I just found out last night I had a FAT leak in my valve core, and it turns out that was my only leak. If your system is already low or empty, you might as well replace them anyway and save money and a headache later. They cost $4 for a repair kit at autozone. It says its for r134a however it will work on r12 lines, even bycicles nipples.
(I searched and this is what i foiund for you hope it helps!) i copy`d and pasted (GANGSTA ****) haha
Now there is really only 4 main things that are likely wrong with your system.
1. Moisture/air/low freon in the system. You can check this easily by looking at your receiver-drier. Look at the site glass on top of the drier. You will probably need to wipe it off to see through it. Now, if you see a million little bubbles, or a couple fat bubbles, then you obviously have either air in your line or you are low on freon. Check your pressure before topping off with freon. You do not want to overcharge. The safest way is to just drain the entire system and start from scratch, considering how cheap refrigerant is...where as if you overcharge and blow your compressor, thats gonna cost you $100 for a used on and several hundred for a new one, along with a new receiver/drier, new TXV/orifice tube, and if you are really unlucky, evaporator and condensor. Thats over $650 right there. Aparantly some AC systems don't have a site glass on the drier, so the only way to check is to check your low and high side pressures. Below 30psi LOW and 150psi HIGH is undercharged.
2. Your thermal expansion valve or TXV is not properly functioning. If debris got in your line, it can clog the valve, or it may just stop working. This is a $33 dollar autozone item you can replace while the system is open. When you open the system, you will also need to replace the receiver drier, because it absorbs moisture and will become saturated one you open the lines, making it useless. That is another $30 dollar item. Not to say that it instantly will absorb all moisture and become useless, however after if it is more than 2 years old you should replace it anyway, or if the drier was exposed to air for more than a day. Now if you suspect a leak in the line, you should hold off on replacing the drier until you fix the leak, unless you want to buy another drier while you open the line up and fix the leak.
If debris is caught somewhere in the line, it will cause premature expansion of the refrigerant. You will be able to tell this by checking the hot line for an immediate cold spot. Thats where the debris is located which needs to be flush out. When flushing you line, you CAN NOT flush through the compressor or thermal expansion valve. Most of the time flushing through the condensor will not clear the debris because it will just flow right past it.
3. Your compressor is bad. Unlikely though. If your pressure stays stable while the a/c is on and the pressure is within 25-50 cold side and 150-200 high side, normally that means its good. If the clutch spins with no grinding then that is a good sign.
4. You have a leak in your line and the system will not hold a charge. FIRST AND FORMOST, replace the valve cores on the high and low side nipples. I just found out last night I had a FAT leak in my valve core, and it turns out that was my only leak. If your system is already low or empty, you might as well replace them anyway and save money and a headache later. They cost $4 for a repair kit at autozone. It says its for r134a however it will work on r12 lines, even bycicles nipples.
(I searched and this is what i foiund for you hope it helps!) i copy`d and pasted (GANGSTA ****) haha
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Hinesville, Ga
http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/acfilter.htm
probly wouldnt hurt. also this is the third 6th gen accord ive had the pleasure of driving. all the a/c units have sucked. they blow cold as long as you rev the heck out of your motor. on mine i have to turn it off when at a stoplight for a long time cause it will overheat my stuff and it doesnt blow cold. when the light turns green i turn it back on. also you shouldnt leave your a/c on when you shut off your car. im pretty sure it will blow out your compresor eventualy
probly wouldnt hurt. also this is the third 6th gen accord ive had the pleasure of driving. all the a/c units have sucked. they blow cold as long as you rev the heck out of your motor. on mine i have to turn it off when at a stoplight for a long time cause it will overheat my stuff and it doesnt blow cold. when the light turns green i turn it back on. also you shouldnt leave your a/c on when you shut off your car. im pretty sure it will blow out your compresor eventualy
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,006
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From: Sterling Heights, MI, USA
Re: (greezy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greezy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also you shouldnt leave your a/c on when you shut off your car. im pretty sure it will blow out your compresor eventualy</TD></TR></TABLE>
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