i have a 95 civic with a jdm gsr motor and a greddy turbo kit. its the 18g turbo with custom 3" d/p and i'm running a hondata s300 with hondata boost controller. i just took it to get dyno tuned but i've got a problem. when we do a pull it starts out good hitting about 7-8 psi from from around 3000 on up until it goes into vtec then the boost starts to rise and it hits 10psi at 7000 and shuts down. it made about 230whp. we tried switching the wastegate vac line between different sources and it didnt change anything. on the last pull we disconnected the wastegate actuator and held it open and it went to around 7500 and made 251whp but it still cut out. i dont know whats going on here. does anyone have and ideas or experience with this kind of thing? my tuner said that maybe the downpipe isnt letting the wastegate open all the way. could there be any other reasons? thanks.....

 

might be same problem im having . mine is the actuator

 

Try putting a new wastegate on it. Or Make sure the vaccume lines from the turbo and wastegate are going to the right places.

 

What size injectors?

 

u might have a leak some where and also it might be cause ur injector are maxed and did u upgrade ur fuel pump
u need to rewire ur pump to a 12v source so it has 12v constantly

 

i have rc 550's and a walbro 255 fuel pump. is it possible that the wastegate is somehow messed up even though its a brand new turbo? my tuner said that when he tried to move the arm it felt sticky..

 

mine did the same thing.. i just played swith the timing curve and it went away. try that, your tuner doesnt seem like he should be tuning if he cant even fix the damn problem.... in my opinion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96teggylsse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine did the same thing.. i just played swith the timing curve and it went away.</TD></TR></TABLE> you mean play with the timing on the hondata?

 

Well you got to gember that that 18g turbo is not a high rev turbo, It may be choking out on top end.. Like I said before check the wastegate. Your tuner should of had known what was going on.. if the a/f is on the $$ then drive it until you can take it to someone that might know whats going on. I couldnt tell you unless I was with the car. But If I had to put $ on it Is either the turbo or the wastegate.... Possibly a small crack in the manifold... What kind of boost controler are you runnin?

 

251whp is plenty for a stock block and a small turbo kit. Id leave it @ that and dont rev it any higher than that or anymore boost...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jimjam187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of boost controler are you runnin?</TD></TR></TABLE> i'm running the hondata boost controller. what if the downpipe was in the way of the flap opening all the way? he said that might be possible.

 

Not if you're using the DP adapter that goes on the turbine housing. 251whp from an 18G is not bad. I did the same thing 7 years ago, and it was about 257whp.. You're not in a bad position.

 

Id leave it alone thats plenty of power out of a small turbo like that. Let me know when you want to make big boost ill cut you a deal on the setup..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not if you're using the DP adapter that goes on the turbine housing. 251whp from an 18G is not bad. I did the same thing 7 years ago, and it was about 257whp.. You're not in a bad position.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2. If you wanted more power, maybe you should have pieced together a kit with a different turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not if you're using the DP adapter that goes on the turbine housing.</TD></TR></TABLE> i'm not using the dp adapter. i have a custom 3" dp and exhaust. i used a turbo flange for a gt28 because its the same bolt pattern but the piping had to be smashed a bit to weld it to the flange.

 

that's true, and it works, but the Greddy uses only a 32mm flapper opening. You can alter that a bit, and utilize a different wastegate and door, but honestly, you're at a point where you need to upgrade the turbocharger entirely. The GT28RS, GT3071R, or GT3076WG.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's true, and it works, but the Greddy uses only a 32mm flapper opening. You can alter that a bit, and utilize a different wastegate and door, but honestly, you're at a point where you need to upgrade the turbocharger entirely. The GT28RS, GT3071R, or GT3076WG.</TD></TR></TABLE> i was thinking off trashing the greddy and getting a gt28 but if i'm only going to be boosting to 10psi wouldn't that be a waste. i've heard that the gt28 is a direct bolt on for the setup i have now. does anyone know if thats true or not?

 

I bolted on a gt25r to a greddy b-series manifold and downpipe with no problems. So, I think that the gt28 should be fine also.

 

i called a garrett dealer today and he actually recommended that i go with a gt30 instead. would that be overkill on my stock bottom if i'm only going to run 10psi?

 

does anyone know what the stock wastegate spring should open at on the 18g?

 

7.5psi you might hit 8....but i never did even with a intercooler

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by avotegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7.5psi you might hit 8....but i never did even with a intercooler</TD></TR></TABLE>so if mine is going to 10psi when i go into vtec i might have a bad wastegate actuator? is there any way i can check it without just buying a new one?

 

you said overkill at 10 psi.

overkill is determined by whp, not psi.

10 psi on a gt30 should net you whp on the low to mid 300's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said overkill at 10 psi.

overkill is determined by whp, not psi.

10 psi on a gt30 should net you whp on the low to mid 300's.</TD></TR></TABLE> ok, so do you think low to mid 300's would be safe on a stock b18c bottom? what about the axles?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 civic turbo_gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ok, so do you think low to mid 300's would be safe on a stock b18c bottom? what about the axles? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, it would be safe on a quality tune. the length of time it lasts depends on the tune and how you drive it. if you beat on it every day, it might only last 3 months. if you take care of it, change oil frequently and keep everything maintained, it could last 2+ years.


as far as axles, stock axles will be fine as long as you dont launch it hard. you def need to step up from an oem clutch though.