JVT-R Full Length Civic/Crx 88-91 Aluminum Radiator MT

I thought I would do a lil write up of the (Ebay) JVT-R Aluminum Radiator that I got from TunerImage. After 3 years of My OEM Crx 3/4" Length NoN AC radiator with aftermarket slim fan was doing just fine but wanted something a lil more blingin and keep the overall engine temps down a lil bit more and an upgrade.

I knew ahead of time I was going to have to hack into things a bit to get it to fit. My main concern was how thick it was 2 3/4" wide and how long it was 27". Once I did a quick measure I purchased it.

For room with swaps a slim fan is a must and should go on the inside of the radiator towards the front of the car. I don't see an OEM thick fan working with it. I was able to get a 12" slim fan to work with it. However I had to notch the top side of the plastic of the fan that had no reason being there far as I was concerned. So I would recommend a 10" slim fan.

Installing Notes:

The Radiator Pegs on the bottom of the radiator were way too wide and would not fit in the OEM radiator tabs. Plus the radiator sat too high even if you could use the stock radiator EF tabs. Hood would not latch if you did use them (way to high). So I cut my front EF Crx OE radiator tabs off at the front support beam. I am running a ESP (our) Traction Bar System. I then decided to cut the bottom pegs of the radiator off so it sat flush. I sat the radiator on top of our Traction Bar Sysem (square tubing

Our Traction Bar System is mounted 1/8" under the factory radiator tabs to give you an idea how low.

I then took some rubber I had (inside rubber from tire) made about a 3" long section by 1" wide after overlapping it a few times for thickness and put it between the radiator and traction bar. I made 2 one for each side. Then I made a simple bracket coming off of the traction bar to keep the radiator from coming forward off of the bar. There are 2 pegs with holes for 10mm head bolts on the bottom part of the radiator. Which made mounting a bracket easier. You will want to make sure some rubber is sandwhiched between the bracket and radiator. I was able to use the top factory radiator brackets. Just needed to bend them a lil down since the radiator pegs were further down then normal.

As for pipe hose the diameter of the openings of the radiator are a lil larger so some WD and a lil muscle is needed. The factory clamps were a lil too small since the openings were larger so I used some SS screw clamps.

Overall Experience:

It came out decent. I am not sure if this radiator would work with the stock crossmember. I am not thinking so because it needs to sit lower, so the radiator cap would clear the hood (latch webbing).

As for clearance between header and radiator there is probably a good 1.5" plenty for my H22A swap. Alternator is about 3/4" away plenty. GSR/B swaps Sit much further forward so header to radiator clearance may be more of an issue? I would use my measurement from the front hood latch beam out to the front of the radiator to measure if it will clear before purchasing this radiator for a B swap.

- Custom lower radiator bracket or brackets needed (some fab. experience required).
- You will need a full length driver side radiator OE EF bracket if you don't have one already
- 2 SS screw clamps for upper and lower hose
- 10" slim fan push and pull $50 shipped
- Radiator $179 shipped
- Your factory radiator tabs need to be cut off at the front support beam.











Modified by ESP.net at 12:07 PM 4/10/2008

 

nice write up...that thing is HUGE!

 

Yes the radiator end tanks are pretty wide

 

Looks pretty, hopefully it cools well.
What is the weight change?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***$nyper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks pretty, hopefully it cools well.
What is the weight change?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

good question, probably gained a 1lb or 2.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

good question, probably gained a 1lb or 2.</TD></TR></TABLE> Very nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

good question, probably gained a 1lb or 2.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well how much coolant went in, the stock radiator holds maybe 1/2 gallon, this looks like it hold at least 1.5 gallons if not more, the weight of the coolant will be a couple pounds as well. what application was this supposed to be for? was it a "EF" or a "da" radiator?

Also I looked for tunerimage, is that a website? I cant seem to find it, or is it from a H-T dealer?


Modified by Crx Jimmy at 7:44 PM 4/10/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well how much coolant went in, the stock radiator holds maybe 1/2 gallon, this looks like it hold at least 1.5 gallons if not more, the weight of the coolant will be a couple pounds as well. what application was this supposed to be for? was it a "EF" or a "da" radiator?

Also I looked for tunerimage, is that a website? I cant seem to find it, or is it from a H-T dealer?


Modified by Crx Jimmy at 7:44 PM 4/10/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah total weight gainage about 5-7 lbs is my guess...

Under Ebay stores TunerImage or just look up Crx radiators, This radiator was supposively for a EF Civic/Crx 88-91 MT

 

coolant is usually 8 lbs. per gallon.

 

i know just plain water is 8lbs per 1 gallon might be a little heaver with coolant.. but prolly not by much so i would just go with that...