How hot do sleeved built motors usually run?
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From: Venice, Florida, US of A
Hey guys I have been having this issue with my car and engine coolant temperature. I have hondata s300 that is set so that a check engine light and rev limiter comes on when temperature rises to 220. How hot are built block supposed to run? I have tried everything to lower the temperature but nothing helps. I have 3 fans (10inch in front of radiator, 12inch in back of radiator, and a small 7inch on the back of the intercooler)
I also have a generic half core civic radiator (need it do to my set up) The car still reaches 220 at idle and while driving on the highway. There are no leaks and I have changed my thermostat. Now, i have been reading that it could be a blown headgasket. I checked my compression and have exactly 185 across the board. Also the stock temperature gauge in my car jumps around from cold to normal temperature when i either accelerate or hit the brakes. Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on with my car?
I also have a generic half core civic radiator (need it do to my set up) The car still reaches 220 at idle and while driving on the highway. There are no leaks and I have changed my thermostat. Now, i have been reading that it could be a blown headgasket. I checked my compression and have exactly 185 across the board. Also the stock temperature gauge in my car jumps around from cold to normal temperature when i either accelerate or hit the brakes. Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on with my car?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2006
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From: Venice, Florida, US of A
ya its pissing me off im trying to figure it out. I mean hopefully thats just how hot built motors are supposed to run i guess since they are sleeved and have less room for coolant in between the cylinders. If thats the case then im just being paranoid for nothing. what temps were you seeing??
having two fans on the radiator is just gonna make the problem worse, just run one fan, and make sure the fan is blowing the correct way.
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From: Venice, Florida, US of A
they are both blowing toward the motor. I was also thinking that might be the problem with it getting hot on the highway since the fan is somewhat blocking the flow of air through the radiator. But what about sitting still. It has 3 fans blowing on the motor and im still seeing temps at/above 220
ya just put one fan on the back of the radiator....
i tried this stuff, from oreily's auto parts... called Pro Blend Stops Overheating in a big can... its like a huge can of stuff like Water Wetter.... **** dropped the temps with my ride... **** man it hasn't even got real hot yet.... wait til its real hot outside...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/PRO-B...lag=1
i tried this stuff, from oreily's auto parts... called Pro Blend Stops Overheating in a big can... its like a huge can of stuff like Water Wetter.... **** dropped the temps with my ride... **** man it hasn't even got real hot yet.... wait til its real hot outside...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/PRO-B...lag=1
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My 85mm ls/vtec runs perfect.I have a slim fan aswell. runs about 190 around town and at stop lights it gets 210 and the fan comes on and drops it back down to 190.what sleeves are you running?
I always used a 12 inch Maradyne fan with a Koyo or Fluidyne radiator. I never had any heating problems with my 84 mm Darton sleeved or Golden Eagle sleeved motors. Both made over 500 whp on pump gas, and I drove them daily and beat the **** out of them nightly.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Venice, Florida, US of A
i was also thinking about changing out the radiator as well for a good half core...im going to do all the regular crap and see if i can get this bitch figured out.
I feel your pain on this one. I have struggled with my car running hot for 2yrs now. If the weather is 80F or less I do just fine. It won't go over 220F at traffic lights but it runs hoter then I like. I remember last summer when it was 95-100F for a week. My car would start to overheat if I got caught in traffic for to long. The fan was steady running to. (PWR half sized radiator, b18bturbo's 10" slimfan 1400cfm i think)
I've tried 180F thermo. Didn't help, sucked in the winter...
Watter wetter and 100% H20. It seemed to help but didn't fix anything.
I wouldn't even boost the motor much. 95F+ and highway driving then hitting traffic = factory temp gauge going to halfway mark.
84mm benson sleeved
Full-Race ramhorn, HPC coated
PWR civic radiator, b18bturbo's 10" 1400cfm fan
It isn't hot enough in Alabama yet to have problems but I know it's only a month away. I'll probably try a FAL shrouded fan once I have problems. That is the only thing I can think to do since a full sized radiator isn't an option due to wastegate placement.
I've tried 180F thermo. Didn't help, sucked in the winter...
Watter wetter and 100% H20. It seemed to help but didn't fix anything.
I wouldn't even boost the motor much. 95F+ and highway driving then hitting traffic = factory temp gauge going to halfway mark.
84mm benson sleeved
Full-Race ramhorn, HPC coated
PWR civic radiator, b18bturbo's 10" 1400cfm fan
It isn't hot enough in Alabama yet to have problems but I know it's only a month away. I'll probably try a FAL shrouded fan once I have problems. That is the only thing I can think to do since a full sized radiator isn't an option due to wastegate placement.
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From: Venice, Florida, US of A
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MMMMMbaaaaaaaaaah »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ant, get a del sol dual core and two fans one on each side and youll be fine, solved my problems. -Will</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i have now, and its still getting hotter than i would like. i even have a 3rd fan. The **** is really pissing me off. I mean it could be the radiator because its a cheap *** ebay one for like 60 bucks. Also looking in the radiator it looks like crap already is built up, because i was running only water to see if it would help.
thats what i have now, and its still getting hotter than i would like. i even have a 3rd fan. The **** is really pissing me off. I mean it could be the radiator because its a cheap *** ebay one for like 60 bucks. Also looking in the radiator it looks like crap already is built up, because i was running only water to see if it would help.
Yea, I didn't run 100% H2O for long in fear of buildup. I can only run a puller fan because my condensor is to close for a pusher in front of it.
I'm convinced my problem is definantly from not having a full size radiator and lack of airflow. I've got a lot of stuff cramed under my hood. I'm sure having a condensor and a FMIC isn't helping.
My GSXR 750cc has a digital temp gauge on it. The fan doesn't kick on until 225F but once it does it cools down pretty quick. I figure if I keep my integra under 225F it isn't dangerous. I don't see any hope of me lasting 20mins in a HPDE though...
I'm convinced my problem is definantly from not having a full size radiator and lack of airflow. I've got a lot of stuff cramed under my hood. I'm sure having a condensor and a FMIC isn't helping.
My GSXR 750cc has a digital temp gauge on it. The fan doesn't kick on until 225F but once it does it cools down pretty quick. I figure if I keep my integra under 225F it isn't dangerous. I don't see any hope of me lasting 20mins in a HPDE though...
Custom full sized radiator with (1) 12" FAL 130 pusher fan. It's with an ERL 84mm block.
During the summer (80*+) just cruising on the highway its around 195*. In stop and go traffic it will get to 210 before my fan kicks on and then the temps drop to 190ish for a bit then rise and the fan kicks on again.
During the summer (80*+) just cruising on the highway its around 195*. In stop and go traffic it will get to 210 before my fan kicks on and then the temps drop to 190ish for a bit then rise and the fan kicks on again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dc2teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys I have been having this issue with my car and engine coolant temperature. I have hondata s300 that is set so that a check engine light and rev limiter comes on when temperature rises to 220. How hot are built block supposed to run? I have tried everything to lower the temperature but nothing helps. I have 3 fans (10inch in front of radiator, 12inch in back of radiator, and a small 7inch on the back of the intercooler)
I also have a generic half core civic radiator (need it do to my set up) The car still reaches 220 at idle and while driving on the highway. There are no leaks and I have changed my thermostat. Now, i have been reading that it could be a blown headgasket. I checked my compression and have exactly 185 across the board. Also the stock temperature gauge in my car jumps around from cold to normal temperature when i either accelerate or hit the brakes. Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on with my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
did anyone else catch this?
so your car runs hot, and then reads cold during accel/braking. are you reading the temp from a water temp gauge or the s300.
I also have a generic half core civic radiator (need it do to my set up) The car still reaches 220 at idle and while driving on the highway. There are no leaks and I have changed my thermostat. Now, i have been reading that it could be a blown headgasket. I checked my compression and have exactly 185 across the board. Also the stock temperature gauge in my car jumps around from cold to normal temperature when i either accelerate or hit the brakes. Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on with my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
did anyone else catch this?
so your car runs hot, and then reads cold during accel/braking. are you reading the temp from a water temp gauge or the s300.
Guys, i've been wanting to post this all day but our Internet at work was worse than dial-up today so I waited.
What I am posting below is from this thread that may help you out.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1765780
From the first page I posted:
I too was having cooling issues or at least I didn't like the engine running 205 on water temp all the time nor did I like having to the put heat on in the summer.
My old setup consisted of a Autozone 12" fan that I got for like $50 but it wasn't helping at all. I found out it was rated at like 800cfm which simply isn't enough. So I did some looking around and found this fan from Permacool (smaller than the one Platinum used BUT I used it as a puller).
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
I figured this should be plenty for me. After driving it to the battle of the imports, I have determined it works extremely well. I use Neptune RTP and set the fan to kick on @ 175. The water temp gauge NEVER got above 190 so I may fiddle with neptune a little to bring that up maybe a little. Simple software change. I changed NOTHIGN else in the car at all.
All in all, I HIGHLY recommend this fan. It was worth every penny and I'm glad I ditched the other one. Oh and it is actually pretty quiet. I was surprised.
Here are some pics of comparison. And yes, it was a tight fit.


Underneath shot

Top shot.

Also, if you do NOT have AC, you need to do this. It forces air to the radiator.
Simple piece of aluminum from Lowe's.
Hope this helps others.
What I am posting below is from this thread that may help you out.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1765780
From the first page I posted:
I too was having cooling issues or at least I didn't like the engine running 205 on water temp all the time nor did I like having to the put heat on in the summer.
My old setup consisted of a Autozone 12" fan that I got for like $50 but it wasn't helping at all. I found out it was rated at like 800cfm which simply isn't enough. So I did some looking around and found this fan from Permacool (smaller than the one Platinum used BUT I used it as a puller).
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
I figured this should be plenty for me. After driving it to the battle of the imports, I have determined it works extremely well. I use Neptune RTP and set the fan to kick on @ 175. The water temp gauge NEVER got above 190 so I may fiddle with neptune a little to bring that up maybe a little. Simple software change. I changed NOTHIGN else in the car at all.
All in all, I HIGHLY recommend this fan. It was worth every penny and I'm glad I ditched the other one. Oh and it is actually pretty quiet. I was surprised.
Here are some pics of comparison. And yes, it was a tight fit.
Underneath shot
Top shot.
Also, if you do NOT have AC, you need to do this. It forces air to the radiator.
Simple piece of aluminum from Lowe's.
Hope this helps others.



Hope you get it worked out
