My car won't crank over. Firs try I have power on accessory and ignition, but if I try to crank it then I lose all power. Then, I can not get any power back until it either sits for a long time (12hours+) or take the terminals off the battery and reapply them. Once that is done the cycle starts again. The battery is only 2 1/2 months old and was tested good at walmart (where it was bought) and advance auto. also visually checked fuses and they all appeared to be good. Te positive terminal was replaced due to a crack in it but made no difference. Also the car can not be jumped. If jump is attempted when I have no power at all then it makes no difference and I still have no power. If jump is attempted when I have power (after reconnecting the battery) then it makes no difference, still will not crank and when tried I lose all my power and get to start over again.

Does anyone have any ideas? I really need this fixed and fast.

 

you have a dead battery, likely caused by a bad alternator if the battery is known to be good.

When you switch the ignition on, are the instrument panel indicator lights dim? Does the fuel pump prime? CEL light come on?...etc

 

The battery is not dead, but alternator is a possibility. When I switch the ignition on all indicator lights and dome lights work fine. I can turn my headlights on and my radio on and they work fine. All indicator lights except for the battery indicator, ABS indicator, and oil lamp indicator stay on. I can even hear a faint click and what sounds to be the fuel pump priming (I think is what it is).

 

use a multimeter and test the voltage of the battery.

or remove the alternator, take it to autozone and have them test it. You likely have a bad alternator which is what charges the battery, which is what gives you the juices to initially start the engine. Not enough juice = no start.

 

I do not have a multimeter readily available but the results from the test at walmart stated that:

rated cold cranking amps = 700
measured cold cranking amps = 795
voltage = 12.56

But won't using a multimeter require the car starting to test the load on it? I think I worded that right, I can't remember it's been a few years since I had to do any of that in shop class.

 

sorry if i am thread jacking but i have a similar problem (i think).

my car also has starting issues. it takes a couple of tries to finally get it to start. once its started, my vafc reads that the battery voltage is at 13.6-8. which, i have researched, sounds good unless i am mistakened. when i turn on the alarm for my car, the beep sounds faint. i also noticed that when i switch the ignition on and i put my windows down the accessory lights dim.

do i have the similar problem? which is bad, the battery or the alternator?

 

your battery and alternator are fine. Battery voltage is ~12volts. If you get a 13.6 or so reading, then your alternator is working as it should.

How long has it been since you changed:

fuel filter
spark plugs/wires
distributor cap and rotor

?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your battery and alternator are fine. Battery voltage is ~12volts. If you get a 13.6 or so reading, then your alternator is working as it should.

How long has it been since you changed:

fuel filter
spark plugs/wires
distributor cap and rotor

?</TD></TR></TABLE>

In addition to these questions, do either of you have a large stereo system or other electronic which could draw more power then your alternator is pushing out?

 

i have changed the plugs and wires but not the other stuff that you mentioned.

 

the only elctronic accesories i have that might draw extra power is the vafc-2 and a new stereo deck.

 

If you have a volt meter, take the negative wire off the terminal of the battery. Then touch the red probe from the volt meter to the negative terminal, and the black probe to the negative wire. There should be little to no voltage displayed. Anything over 2 or 3 volts is not a good thing. If you get more than that, you will need to track down what is causing the power drainage. (i hope that makes sense)

 

i don't have a volt meter. how much are they? or better yet, can kragen or autozone check it for free?

 

Okay, I just went to pick up my little sister from school and while i was waiting for her i noticed that when i put my windows down, my rpm's drop and when i let go of the button, the rpm's jump up and go back to normal. this was done at idle.

anyone know what the real problem is? i doubt that its the need to replace the fuel filter (even though its due for replacing) but maybe it has something to do with the distributor.


Modified by supereg2 at 7:11 PM 4/7/2008