Ok, I'm going down my list of things to get done before EXPO, and I'm at the point of ordering my braking components.

What I'm thinking:

- Vatozone/Advance Auto rotors
- Russell brake lines
- Pads of some sort
- Good brake fluid.

Now I have a front set of Cobalt GTS carbon-ceramic pads that were given to me at the Thanksgiving Meet (Thanks a lot VPR ), but they're just the fronts... What would suffice in the rear?

What brake fluid would be the best, and where can I get it from (i.e. Locally, which chain carries it?). I keep coming across ATE Super Blue in my searchs.

Anything else I should consider in covering my braking for EXPO?

Thanks for the input!

 

Jordan,

I am going to run the stock pads and rotors at expo and replace them afterwards.....just for piece of mind....

I will upgrade the fluid and add stainless lines(11 yrs old) before hand though.....

I dont know how many track events you plan on doing, but if you plan to do a few, get a set of dedicated pads and rotors for track use.....to switch out for events....

 

Cameron, I just ordered some Type-R specific Russell SS brake lines. They'll be in Wednesday, want me to order you a set as well?

$119.80, picked up at the shop.

(Part number 684860 for reference)

So basically, just keep my existing rotor/pad set for street use, and change out my 'race' setup at the track? Makes perfect sense to me.

What rear pads should I run with those GTS Cobalts?

 

I plan on changing to higher temp fluid and picking up another set of OE pads because the Axxis grip awesome but destroy my wheels plus the Ultimates aren't good for track use.

Are old stock brake lines going to suffice on my '97 with 92k? I can't change to stainless lines due to autocross.

-Matt

 

You can run stock pads on the rear or any "stock" equivalent. You do not want anything aggressive on the rear.

 

Jordan, Marc hooked me up with Cobalt GTS pads front and back, ATE brake fluid, and Russell SS lines and I'm just gonna get the vatozone rotors as well, I'm not sure if I'm gonna switch my rear pads right away, I'm gonna see how bad they are and see if I should replace 'em then

 

I suppose we are all to assume that Jordan will be going fast enough to even need brakes??

Cobalt GTS' are a good pad, but SS brake lines are not needed. I am not familar with Russell but I hope they are coated. Dirt gets into the weaves of typical SS lines and they fail.

 

Hmmm... So GTS in the front, stock in the rear?

How much is the ATE Super Blue? How much does the system take?

 

1 can should handle flushing the entire brake system. Not sure on price on the Super Blue... you should also invest in Super Gold also. Makes it much easier to see when you flush the brake lines in the future.

IMO, GTS's front and rear though many people just use OEM.


Edit: Super Gold is no longer available but they offer Typ200 Amber which should be as good. $12/can from Tire Rack


Modified by Comp97GSR at 8:48 PM 4/6/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are old stock brake lines going to suffice on my '97 with 92k? I can't change to stainless lines due to autocross.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll be fine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What rear pads should I run with those GTS Cobalts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As David said, keep it stock or something equivalent. More aggressive rear pads will have a greater tendency to lock the rear wheels, which you really don't want. After you get some more experience (you're a noob, I'm assuming), there are some benefits to a slightly more aggressive rear pad (just GT-Sports). That stipulation is again for someone with experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As David said, keep it stock or something equivalent. More aggressive rear pads will have a greater tendency to lock the rear wheels, which you really don't want. After you get some more experience (you're a noob, I'm assuming), there are some benefits to a slightly more aggressive rear pad (just GT-Sports). That stipulation is again for someone with experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I'm a noob, this will be my first road course experience. I figured I didn't need anything too aggressive. I've auto crossed for a long time, but I'd imagine it's a completely different realm.

Thanks for the input.

 

Sounds like you're all set then And like Comp said, one can of Superblue/Type200 will do you for a full flush of the system. You only need the two colors (back in the day the color was the only difference, not sure about now) if you're doing another full system flush.

One note about that too, and this is for others as well: for myself, my brother, and my friends that go to the track, Superblue has required a "break-in" period. When initially put into the system, the brake pedal feels very soft, like it needs to be bled a bunch. After some time (for us about a week) of driving around, the pedal firms up. I have no explanation for this, but it has consistently been the case in all my cars. No idea if anyone else has experienced this. The moral of the story is to flush the system with the good stuff more than a week before the event

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> More aggressive rear pads will have a greater tendency to lock the rear wheels, which you really don't want. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the beauty of an ITR's ABS!

 

I have heard that about GTS' in the rear but I have never locked up the rears, only the fronts slightly.

 

ITRs and Integras in general have more weight in the rear than Civics and a longer wheelbase, so that rear twitchiness is less of an issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

One note about that too, and this is for others as well: for myself, my brother, and my friends that go to the track, Superblue has required a "break-in" period. When initially put into the system, the brake pedal feels very soft, like it needs to be bled a bunch. After some time (for us about a week) of driving around, the pedal firms up. I have no explanation for this, but it has consistently been the case in all my cars. No idea if anyone else has experienced this. The moral of the story is to flush the system with the good stuff more than a week before the event </TD></TR></TABLE>

I get this also.

x2 to stock pads in the rear. These cars barely use the rear brakes anyway. Sounds like you're good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I get this also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Last year when I flushed my brake system with Superblue I had this feeling as well. As stated, it went away a week later (I don't DD) this feeling went away.

My setup that worked flawlessly last year:
-Autozone blanks
-Earl's SS lines
-Cobalt GTS Front, Rear
-Superblue

 

Great, so it sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks again guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great, so it sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks again guys. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed.

 

First track event?

I say stock setup then... but since your going down another route, one thing that hasn't been mentioned (and what I use) is the Legend rotors from the Sedans. Same bolt pattern and a little thicker (I seem to remember 2-3mm's)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can run stock pads on the rear or any "stock" equivalent. You do not want anything aggressive on the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually prefer a little more pad than that in the rear, but not much. I used to run hawk blue's in front with HPS's in the back... but stock in the rear works fine too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Comp97GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 can should handle flushing the entire brake system. Not sure on price on the Super Blue... you should also invest in Super Gold also. Makes it much easier to see when you flush the brake lines in the future.

IMO, GTS's front and rear though many people just use OEM.


Edit: Super Gold is no longer available but they offer Typ200 Amber which should be as good. $12/can from Tire Rack


Modified by Comp97GSR at 8:48 PM 4/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like Motive has either Gold or Blue.
About to order a Power bleeder. Anyone have a Discount Code for Motive?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Looks like Motive has either Gold or Blue.
About to order a Power bleeder. Anyone have a Discount Code for Motive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I sell Motive too.

ATE Blue or Gold will work well. I suggest always having an extra can on hand just in case. It won't hurt. GTS in the front with stock in the rear will be just fine. Then one day you can bump up to GTS in the rear. After that go XR3 front, GTS rear.

-Victor

 

^ Thanks again for the pads Victor.

I got two cans of Super Blue, just in case.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Looks like Motive has either Gold or Blue.
About to order a Power bleeder. Anyone have a Discount Code for Motive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have been gravity bleeding my brakes lately and that seems to work great! Takes some time to do, but very simple and cheap (hose and an old can/spaghetti bottle and you are done).