im looking at dry sumping.
a big expense is the tank (around 500 with brackets) and pan(like 600).

Is there anything to a tank other than being 2 piece to clean it, and bungs on it?
Im looking at a 3 stage system.....

i see obx on ebay selling tanks for like 100$...to 80$.
Places like peterson charge WAYYYY more.

Also on pans....anybody know what is so complicated with them? I would like to see insides of them, but what about just chopping the pan as low as it goes without hitting something, and putting some bungs? maybe make it sloped to the bungs??? ARE sells cast pans for like 500-600.....

I have a lead on a used pan for like 200, but it has one scavenge. I would just drill next to it , and add another.

Any opinions on this?

 

id like to also add what you all think of vaccuume pumps for the crank case.
would a dry sump be just as good as one of them?
i can setup a dry sump for like 2500, or a vaccuume pump setup for like 1,000.

 

I don't have any Honda drysump experience,but I have worked with v8 stuff.Subtle differences in scavenge locations can make a big difference in power.The work it takes to fab a pan is more than just adding a couple pick-ups.Six hundred is pretty reasonable once you start to build one.Building a drag race tank is pretty doable.Adding a large scavenge stage to the pump can help with engine vacuum.Managing vacuum can take some work.To much will reduce oil pressure,wipe out wrist pins and bushings, and suck the gaskets into the engine.An external pump will give you increased reliability for fairly short money.The benefits of drysump in a drag engine are only realized in a high end car.

 

no offense, but it sounds like your cheaping out on a system that shouldn't be cheaped out on.

i probably wouldn't put anything obx on a setup that would require a dry sump.

dry sumps create vaccume. you can add seperate pumps to the drive specifically for vaccume.

you might want to look into a oil seperator considering it won't work without one. those will run you at least $500.

most guys that i've seen running dry sumps prime the setup before they crank it over, which would mean popping the belt off, priming with cordless drill and installing back on before each start up.

i'm sure you don't have to, but its somthing to think about.

 

well, i know ferrari's use dry sump oem, and they dont have issues priming first...

your right, im trying to cheap out of a the tank.
i would love to see the insides of one.
as far as i know its just an empty tank, in 2 pieces, that has a bunch of bungs.
600 seems way steep.

same goes with the oil pan...ive googled them, and it seems some have baffles and tubes and whatnot, and many dont.
moroso makes one for my motor, but for 480. i asked them for pics of it's inside, and no dice, they only provide external pics.

thats the moroso picture.
here are some other pics of dry sumps for my engine.


i can buy the one on the left for less than half of the moroso one as well, but its magnesium. i would like to add another pickup on it, as its only got one, but ive never welded on magnesium. i mean im proficient on aluminum, so i think could do it.
The one in the middle is sold for about 600$

looking for advise really. its hard for me to spend like 600 on a pan.

 

Here's some pictures of a dry sump pan for a ASA car with an LS1 engine. Hope it helps.









David @ DIDRace.Com

 

[QUOTE=hootiehoo]
your right, im trying to cheap out of a the tank.
i would love to see the insides of one.
as far as i know its just an empty tank, in 2 pieces, that has a bunch of bungs.
600 seems way steep. [QUOTE=hootiehoo]

you are mistaken, i have a 2 gallon peterson tank and trust me there is alot more going on inside then you think, i bet the obx ones are exactly that, EMPTY inside.
the job of the tank, besides just storing the oil, is also getting the air outta the oil to stop it from foaming. here is a description of a Stef's Fabrication oil tank, not the tank i have.
"These Stef's dry sump oil tanks feature a revolutionary 360 degree, perforated 4 in. diameter, integral vertical center baffle that forms a positive oil/air separation chamber against the outer tank wall. This promotes immediate downward oil flow and premeditates de-aeration of the return oil without scavenging line flow restrictions."

 

what tank do you have by peterson?
how do you like it?
I found this one:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/....html

which seems priced not too bad....

 

I'm pretty sure you should buy the magnesium pan on the left, because its the one in my garage

shouldn't be any harder to weld than aluminum

 

gimme a PM

 

ABA?

 

he is going to be doing an aba 16vt

 

got this offer for 270 shipped
and also this one for like 300



top one is patterson, NOT peterson, bottom one is from pegasus racing catalog.

just a status update

 

ZO6 tank might work.

 

most parts off the dry sump systems of z06s are in such high demand that you'll probably only find one from a guy that bought the peterson upgrade.

 

Dealership...

 

Well then the cost would surpass that of an aftermarket tank, making it a moot point.