Recent Fab: T4 Neon's S372 Manifold w/ twin 44's and 4"dp
The long awaited manifold for Matt Tripp who is "T4 Neon" on H-T. This is going in a 1st gen Neon with a built SRT-4 2.4L. For more details on the car... check out http://www.project-neon.com Thank you Matt for your continual support and good luck racing this year.
-Eric Urness













Enjoy! 304L SS Schedule 10, single pass welded, selectively backpurged, weirtech flanges.
-Eric Urness













Enjoy! 304L SS Schedule 10, single pass welded, selectively backpurged, weirtech flanges.
what ever happened to keeping the waist gates as close to the turbo as possible?Also why 2?Are you only going to run 5 lbs boost.You know that the more boost you use the less exhaust you get rid of right?
wow thats very interesting, and looks like you have a bunch of time into it!
is that the 4 inch stuff that ACE stainless sells? ive used it a few times, i like it, and like the way it welds, i just wish they sold it a little bit thinner!
is that the 4 inch stuff that ACE stainless sells? ive used it a few times, i like it, and like the way it welds, i just wish they sold it a little bit thinner!
Trending Topics
It has twin gates because its a divided T4 turbine inlet. It has twin 44's because boost control is of the utmost importance when trying to hookup 800-900 whp... but more than likely... v-bands are easier to service than a flange with a gasket....and not to mention they're baller as f*&k. haha.
Joe - Those are the ace stainless 4" bends. I used some ATP bends the other day that a customer sent to me... and they have a MUCH tighter radius and are of thinner material. The ACE 4" tubing is hella thick. I was thinking of beveling it and welding it with 1/16 rod lol.
Thanks for the compliments guys
Joe - Those are the ace stainless 4" bends. I used some ATP bends the other day that a customer sent to me... and they have a MUCH tighter radius and are of thinner material. The ACE 4" tubing is hella thick. I was thinking of beveling it and welding it with 1/16 rod lol.
Thanks for the compliments guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racecar chassis builder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what ever happened to keeping the waist gates as close to the turbo as possible?Also why 2?Are you only going to run 5 lbs boost.You know that the more boost you use the less exhaust you get rid of right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Packaging. There isn't enough space to put them anywhere closer to the turbo. And yes, like Eric said, I wanted to make sure I could reduce power enough down low to run the radial class in the future if I chose to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Badass, now lets get some pics in the car!</TD></TR></TABLE>
As soon as it shows up, its going to get ceramic coated. When I get it back I'll post up some installed pics.
Thanks everyone!
Packaging. There isn't enough space to put them anywhere closer to the turbo. And yes, like Eric said, I wanted to make sure I could reduce power enough down low to run the radial class in the future if I chose to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Badass, now lets get some pics in the car!</TD></TR></TABLE>
As soon as it shows up, its going to get ceramic coated. When I get it back I'll post up some installed pics.
Thanks everyone!
308 Rod for SS to SS... 316 to the mild steel flanges. 1/16" filler rod.
Mike - I don't use the pulse setting on the dynasty. I also don't stop/start weld. I control amperage with a pedal and set it to 200 amps. Sorry about that...I replied at like 3am lol
I have some pics of our FSAE car that I did a lot of work on. I just finished the rear differential mounts, swirl pot, and header. our little F4i engine made ~200 engine dyno pulls to 14,400! lol amazing.
Thank you for the compliments!
Mike - I don't use the pulse setting on the dynasty. I also don't stop/start weld. I control amperage with a pedal and set it to 200 amps. Sorry about that...I replied at like 3am lol
I have some pics of our FSAE car that I did a lot of work on. I just finished the rear differential mounts, swirl pot, and header. our little F4i engine made ~200 engine dyno pulls to 14,400! lol amazing.
Thank you for the compliments!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RTErnie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">308 Rod for SS to SS... 316 to the mild steel flanges. 1/16" filler rod.
Mike - I don't use the pulse setting on the dynasty. I also don't stop/start weld. I control amperage with a pedal and set it to 200 amps. Sorry about that...I replied at like 3am lol
Thank you for the compliments!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Crazyness. What manufacture rod do you use if you don't mind me asking? I've just never seen a 308 rod on 304 stainless come out like that! I see it all the time with 309 though which is why I asked. How many passes do you do? I wonder if thats why.
Mike - I don't use the pulse setting on the dynasty. I also don't stop/start weld. I control amperage with a pedal and set it to 200 amps. Sorry about that...I replied at like 3am lol
Thank you for the compliments!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Crazyness. What manufacture rod do you use if you don't mind me asking? I've just never seen a 308 rod on 304 stainless come out like that! I see it all the time with 309 though which is why I asked. How many passes do you do? I wonder if thats why.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manifoldmiketyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your welding makes me feel like an amiture.
bad ***! nervous about creeping or spiking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is box at the top of your reply box that says ABC with a check below it .Try it next time.But I do agree with the welding looking good.
I don't get to say that very often.Its nice to see someone with a little talent.
bad ***! nervous about creeping or spiking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is box at the top of your reply box that says ABC with a check below it .Try it next time.But I do agree with the welding looking good.
I don't get to say that very often.Its nice to see someone with a little talent.
Very very well done.
I have one question other than that I'm very much at a loss for words.
Why do the paired runners go to a collector with the same pipe diameter into the flange.
Would there be a restriction or a benefit to using the 1 1/2" material for the runners into a 2" tube after the paired collectors since you are basically doing a 2 into 2 design prior to the divided flange.
I have one question other than that I'm very much at a loss for words.
Why do the paired runners go to a collector with the same pipe diameter into the flange.
Would there be a restriction or a benefit to using the 1 1/2" material for the runners into a 2" tube after the paired collectors since you are basically doing a 2 into 2 design prior to the divided flange.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdsGTI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very very well done.
I have one question other than that I'm very much at a loss for words.
Why do the paired runners go to a collector with the same pipe diameter into the flange.
Would there be a restriction or a benefit to using the 1 1/2" material for the runners into a 2" tube after the paired collectors since you are basically doing a 2 into 2 design prior to the divided flange.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know what he is going to tell you but here is why i would not go bigger.Have you looked inside the exhaust housing on a turbo?It tapers down to where you can't even get your little finger inside the scroll.So it would make it slow and lose velocity if it got bigger then smaller again.
I have one question other than that I'm very much at a loss for words.
Why do the paired runners go to a collector with the same pipe diameter into the flange.
Would there be a restriction or a benefit to using the 1 1/2" material for the runners into a 2" tube after the paired collectors since you are basically doing a 2 into 2 design prior to the divided flange.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know what he is going to tell you but here is why i would not go bigger.Have you looked inside the exhaust housing on a turbo?It tapers down to where you can't even get your little finger inside the scroll.So it would make it slow and lose velocity if it got bigger then smaller again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racecar chassis builder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is box at the top of your reply box that says ABC with a check below it .Try it next time.But I do agree with the welding looking good.
I don't get to say that very often.Its nice to see someone with a little talent.</TD></TR></TABLE>
way to go dick
forgot that i was going to turn this in tomarrow morning to my 8th grade teacher.
have anything to say about the actual question?
Modified by manifoldmiketyson at 4:41 AM 4/4/2008
There is box at the top of your reply box that says ABC with a check below it .Try it next time.But I do agree with the welding looking good.
I don't get to say that very often.Its nice to see someone with a little talent.</TD></TR></TABLE>
way to go dick
forgot that i was going to turn this in tomarrow morning to my 8th grade teacher.
have anything to say about the actual question?
Modified by manifoldmiketyson at 4:41 AM 4/4/2008
this pic shows off the welds really well............. hotness! and i dont know exactly what u mean when u say u dont "stop/start weld??? how many passes and what rod thickness did u use if u dont mind mind me asking. i used .045" on the mitsu manifold i did for both passes, the first pass went like cake and looked great but going over top of the first pass while doing the second pass wasnt as easy and made the appearance not so blinging
if u know what i mean.

mike
if u know what i mean.
mike
Boostwerks.com
Radnor Tig rod I believe...what ever they sell at Airgas. Single pass welded.
EdsGTI
when I did a 2" after a collector on my personal manifold on my 1g neon... the volume inside the tube SIGNIFICANTLY increased my spool time. I measured the difference in area between the turbine inlet flange and the tubing...and it ended up being. .14" difference in diameter if they were both round (A=pi*r^2)
I have the numbers in the garage...I figured it would suffice.
Also...like racecar chassis builder said...If you look in the inside of the turbine inlet they have cast recessions into the turbine inlet port to help clear a wrench for turning the fasteners.

here's the header I did on the dyno...late night hooligans!
here's a pic of the car
Radnor Tig rod I believe...what ever they sell at Airgas. Single pass welded.
EdsGTI
when I did a 2" after a collector on my personal manifold on my 1g neon... the volume inside the tube SIGNIFICANTLY increased my spool time. I measured the difference in area between the turbine inlet flange and the tubing...and it ended up being. .14" difference in diameter if they were both round (A=pi*r^2)
I have the numbers in the garage...I figured it would suffice.
Also...like racecar chassis builder said...If you look in the inside of the turbine inlet they have cast recessions into the turbine inlet port to help clear a wrench for turning the fasteners.

here's the header I did on the dyno...late night hooligans!
here's a pic of the car


