ok well just got back from Iraq and pulled the accord out of storage....my wife started it a couple of times while I was gone....fyi

Before I parked it, it had that purging idle problem everyone is complaining about ....now im home and i wanted it gone....just spent $199 at advanced auto for a brand new IACV....and to no avail its still purging....I have also tried adjusting the FITV ALOT and still no stopping it....now my question is do I need to reset the ecu possibly, and if i do how do i go about doing it?

possibly any more areas to be looking at?

FYI: 91' accord dx

 

adjusted my throttle cable just to see if i could get it to idle....and oh yeah it idles....AT 1700RPM....help me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grandhustleman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well just got back from Iraq and pulled the accord out of storage....my wife started it a couple of times while I was gone....fyi

Before I parked it, it had that purging idle problem everyone is complaining about ....now im home and i wanted it gone....just spent $199 at advanced auto for a brand new IACV....and to no avail its still purging....I have also tried adjusting the FITV ALOT and still no stopping it....now my question is do I need to reset the ecu possibly, and if i do how do i go about doing it?

possibly any more areas to be looking at?

FYI: 91' accord dx </TD></TR></TABLE>

still digging for answers....it idles now at 1700RPM with me adjusting the throttle cable....i need this done right....IE. idleing at 750-900RPM.

Do I need to reset the ECU or is there another area to be focusing on?


Modified by Grandhustleman86 at 5:22 PM 4/2/2008

 

To reset the ecu: you can disconnect the neg battery cable for a minute, this should do the trick.

The "correct" way is to disconnect the "backup fuse" located in the ECU under the hood.

 

make sure that your intake pipe is on and get some carb cleaner and spray around the throttle body and intake manifold if the idle drops, focus on that area and find out where exactly it is leaking from. the only way to adjust the fitv is to put some locktite on the threads and turn it all the way in as tight as possible. also make sure that the idle screw is one quarter turn out.

 

The surefire way to clear the ECU is to pull the back up fuse for about 20 seconds. The battery may not do it as the ECU will hold power for a time.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveedd357 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure that your intake pipe is on and get some carb cleaner and spray around the throttle body and intake manifold if the idle drops, focus on that area and find out where exactly it is leaking from. the only way to adjust the fitv is to put some locktite on the threads and turn it all the way in as tight as possible. also make sure that the idle screw is one quarter turn out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

To clarify, are you saying the default posiion of the idle screw is one quarter turn out from fully seated? As in turn in until it stops and back out 1/4 of a turn? It seems like that would not allow enough flow...

sohc

 

sounds stupid but we gotta eliminate the stupid first right? Make sure your coolant is FULL FULL FULL! loosen the bleader, fill the radiator untill your bleader starts to pee all over then tighten it while its peeing. Then start, let the car idle for 15 minutes let it cool and do it again. If there's any air in the system neither or iacv or fitv will function. I block off my fitv cause its gay and idles perfect without it.

 

the main thing is to achieve a minimum airflow condition.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AK_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If there's any air in the system neither or iacv or fitv will function.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok on this issue I popped off my radiator cap today to look into this issue stated above and came across the anti-freeze bubbling up a little....no headgasket leaks....radiator fluid is still perfectly anti-freeze green no issues with milky anti-freeze or oil....no temperature issues....so im thinking it has air in the system....no kidding. lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AK_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I block off my fitv cause its gay and idles perfect without it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummmm intrested for more info!

 

First off, I don't know why the hell you would spend $199 for an IACV when they are $160 brand new from the dealer OEM....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by u n v kenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, I don't know why the hell you would spend $199 for an IACV when they are $160 brand new from the dealer OEM....</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea advanced was pretty pricey but Im bringing it back for a refund....as right now it doesnt seem to be the problem....money really isnt an Issue I just got home from Iraq FYI....so doing it right is my only focus, shopping around isnt really a priority....but good call on that tho....I'll be sure to holler at my local dealer if the problem is indeed my IACV.

OP ftw....home town!


Modified by Grandhustleman86 at 10:46 AM 4/8/2008

 

Anything I can help you with just give me a hollar.

OPFTMFW