Alright i have a H22a4 sh and im about to order a obd1 h22a and i was wondering if i can use the sh harness? Do i need a a jumper or what?

 

yes, and use the sh oil pump with sensors and the sh distributor and coil

no jumper needed

 

Well thats the prob tho man. the h22a4 oil pump went out. and i spun bearings

 

then get another obd2 oil pump for the obd1 engine, and swap over your obd2 crank gear, balance gear, and sensors.

 

Thanks man. So that would be my only choice is to do that? like there is no easier way to swap it? I wanna get rid of the atts, but dont wanna rig anything. I was just gonna see if i could use the whole complete obd1 h22a engine, tranny, dist., ecu.

 

the only other way is to mess with the distributor wiring. IMO, with the engine out, this is the easier way.

You can ditch ATTS as well, but you'll have a check engine light for the ATTS, and you probably won't pass an inspection scan, not sure on TN laws, but here in NC, that wouldn't fly.

 

alright so could i use the rhd harness and extend it?

 

no

use the obd2 harness, the one that's in there now.

 

Okay and get a jumper fom obd2 to obd1? since im guessing i wanna use the p13 ecu. thanks again for all the answers.

 

The engine harness does not plug directly into the ecu.

Obd1 engine harnesses do not plug into obd2 cars at all.

You need to use the obd2 engine harness and oil pump and distributor setup as this is the only major difference between your current obd2 engine and the obd1 h22 you'll be putting in

The car has a piece of harness that goes from the shock tower (where the engine harness plugs in) down to the ecu, where it plugs in.

Your car will not pass an obd2 scan inspection with anything other than your obd2 p5m ecu that is in your car right now.

If you remove ATTS you may not pass inspection due to the light being on.

I don't mind helping out. It seems you're new to this thing. I appreciate that you're asking first and doing second.

 

Alright man this is the same guy, i switched to my friend account. im a damn trial user. But yea man here where i live we dont have an emissions test.

 

There's no good reason I can see to not go ahead and change everything over.

Wiring it can be a bitch, as 98vtec. It is much easier and IMO a smarter decision to change over the hardware.

The only real investment will be $190 on an oil pump. So what. It could use it anyways most likely, not that they fail often, but it can't hurt.

Go obd1 if you must, but know that I've both been there and regretted it.

 

Yea i def understand where your coming from on. I was just thinking that would be the cheaper way. i dont wanna half *** anything or anything like that. Would it be better to go with the 97-01 h22a? lol sorry if i keep asking dumb question just trying to figure out what to do. Im gonna have to order something this thursday.

 

obd2 h22s are a bit tougher to find, but if you could get one, that would be easier.

 

what about this? would that be my best alternative
http://www.jspecautosports.com...d=445

 

yes, that should work just fine, but I'd call them and make sure that the pickups and all are down at the crank on the 97-01 jdm engines just like they are on the USDM ones.

fwiw, you might be able to get your hands on an obd1 h22 and buy a new oil pump for less than the $1750 for that one.

 

Yea thats what i was looking at i was wanting to go ahead and swap out my clutch also while it was out. are you still selling your swap?

 

yup. I pm'd you back about it earlier.

 

Thanks alot for all your answers. I found a obd1 h22a longblock im gonna do, and use all my external parts so i can keep the obd2. I actually had a budget and now get to do the oil pump, timing belt, clutch, flywheel i want. and maybe a few dress up parts.

 

Its a shame you live in TN, I have a jdm obd1 h22 that I have to sell and I am only asking $750 for it cuz I need the cash, but im in UT

 

Well damn thats what im paying for mine. I think like 950 shipped to my house. what would it cost to ship yours?