Yo guys watsup? Im starting my b16 project a little earlier but soem really smart people told me to go h2b and i had been researching it for a while and now i REALLY dont know what to do so im consulting you guys. Im hoping you guys can help me out. If i was to swap in a b16 in my eg and then JRSC would it cost MORE than a H2B setup? I know that the b16 JRSC would be more cost effective but then theres the H2B reliablity of NA so i really don't know...need help? Any help is appreciated. And dont tell me to find the parts and add up the prices please becuase everything can be different. I just want to know the average cost of each. The JRSC is ~$2000 so theres something to think about. Cheers

 

it really depends on what deals you can find, also think about which one will be legal....you are in cali....superchargers make really crappy gains on small displacement motors, id say turbo instead but imo h22 owns all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22Ej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it really depends on what deals you can find, also think about which one will be legal....you are in cali....superchargers make really crappy gains on small displacement motors, id say turbo instead but imo h22 owns all </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea well i cant get a junkyard turbo kit smog legal becuase it wont pass the visual inspection in cali. Unless i get some crack *** smoggers lol. so thats why i was thinking JRSC becuase its smog legal or H2B. Come on guys...i need more feedback. I dont want to spend money and time on something Im going to regret later on. Cheers

EDIT: DAMN...now i just read an article of swapping a b series vs turboing and rebuilding a d series. **** i REALLY dont know what to do now. CAN i get some feedback guys. O and i bet ur wondering what my budget is...i have $8000 but i watn to have enough to do everything and have left over money. IM A SAVING kind of guy. So whats more cost effective? THANKS GUYS


Modified by forc3dinduction at 8:46 AM 3/29/2008

 

If you build and turbo a d-series correctly it will be faster than the h22 and a stock b16. (Dont kno about one with a supercharger). A good turbo setup would run ya on the safe side of 2g's and rebuilding the motor would probly be a little less than that. If you build it rite to run 10-15psi as a daily driver you'd be a happy camper!! Plus you get the pssst

 

I have a boosted B16A and it's so nice, so my vote go to the JRSC B16A. You can have more whp with boost... But whp have a price, don't forget it. You can also use a 2.0L block on your B16A to have more power if you need...

So, good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CX-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a boosted B16A and it's so nice, so my vote go to the JRSC B16A. You can have more whp with boost... But whp have a price, don't forget it. You can also use a 2.0L block on your B16A to have more power if you need...

So, good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol i wouldnt want to do a frank....im mechanically challenged as of now....BUt thanks guys...more feedback anyone? H2b?

 

youve got 8 grand for this?

do the h2b the right way so it passes inspection you will be so much more happier than with a d series turbo then later on you can build it for boost if you desire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by faxshatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you build and turbo a d-series correctly it will be faster than the h22 and a stock b16. (Dont kno about one with a supercharger). A good turbo setup would run ya on the safe side of 2g's and rebuilding the motor would probly be a little less than that. If you build it rite to run 10-15psi as a daily driver you'd be a happy camper!! Plus you get the pssst </TD></TR></TABLE>

D series turbo are fun till an H22 with 2psi walks off on you like your in neutral

 

Yea i have 8 grand but i really dont want to spend all of it....H2B as i found out yesterday costs ~ $4000 withought labor which really kills half of my funds. The turbo D series i found only cost ~$1500 if i can scrap it together...but im wondering to anyone of u cali guys/gals. Is piecing a turbo kit together Smog Legal in CALI?

 

Boosted H2b FTW

 

Actually forget that last post about the smog legal thing because i called edelbrock and the refs and they said no...that sux so right now im comparing an edelbrock turbo ~$3500 with a complete swap ~$500 taht im doing myslef VS. a ~$4000 H2B and the b16 JRSC is out of the picture becuase it's going to cost WAYYYYYY tooo much.
Any suggestions...becuase i still want the H2B NA reliabilty but the Turbo kit is really pulling me in. The thing about turboes is that i have HEARD so many horror stories of blown motors even though they were tuned VERY WELL. SO i dont know. But anyways if i do go TURBO my friend said he could hook me up on some nice NEW parts to rebuild my stock motor with. Can u guys give me any classification on the blown motor stuff? Cheers


Modified by forc3dinduction at 9:26 PM 3/29/2008

 

go H2b, what could go wrong?

you get ~200 hp
~160 TRQ

and a b series transmission

can you say bye bye K20?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nix94delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go H2b, what could go wrong?

you get ~200 hp
~160 TRQ

and a b series transmission

can you say bye bye K20?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOLLOL u crack me up but have u thought of saying bye bye k20 with a d series turbo becuase i can always make mor power in the future IF i do choose to go turbo d. Anywho i was just wondering which would be better becuase i want the OEM reliability of the H2B and could anyone help me with the "NON-RELIABLE turbo no matter what you do" thing that I've been hearing. TOM? anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forc3dinduction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea well i cant get a junkyard turbo kit smog legal becuase it wont pass the visual inspection in cali. Unless i get some crack *** smoggers lol. so thats why i was thinking JRSC becuase its smog legal or H2B. Come on guys...i need more feedback. I dont want to spend money and time on something Im going to regret later on. Cheers

EDIT: DAMN...now i just read an article of swapping a b series vs turboing and rebuilding a d series. **** i REALLY dont know what to do now. CAN i get some feedback guys. O and i bet ur wondering what my budget is...i have $8000 but i watn to have enough to do everything and have left over money. IM A SAVING kind of guy. So whats more cost effective? THANKS GUYS


Modified by forc3dinduction at 8:46 AM 3/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are a savings kind of guy, and had 8K, you wouldn't be spending it on a honda civic....

JRSC's on a B-series will cap-out at 250hp if you are lucky, They just don't generate much power, and struggle to provide enough air at high revs let along give you extra power. I do love the sound though

You also make mention of Smog, so you need to clarify, what year is your car for us to know what swaps you can even legally do to pass smog.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you are a savings kind of guy, and had 8K, you wouldn't be spending it on a honda civic....

JRSC's on a B-series will cap-out at 250hp if you are lucky, They just don't generate much power, and struggle to provide enough air at high revs let along give you extra power. I do love the sound though

You also make mention of Smog, so you need to clarify, what year is your car for us to know what swaps you can even legally do to pass smog.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Im not too worried on the legality of a swap on my car becuase its going to be a USDM SOHC And im not going b series as i said earlier becuase of MONEY...it cost quite a lot. Since JRSC will cap out at 250 for b series i might as well forget JRSC d series but as i was saying before...OEM reliabilty of H2B or turbo D series. and can anyone clarify for me the blown turboed motors EVEN on a good tune. ANYONE? THANKS


Modified by forc3dinduction at 10:10 PM 3/29/2008

 

Anything fast Honda wise takes maintenance. An H2B is out of the question for you since you can't even do an LS/Vtec. The block grinding sounds like it'd be too hard for you. Go buy a Type R swap and be done with it if you want to go fast and have reliablity. Its a simple swap and should be right up your alley. H2B would be faster than the JRSC'd B16... but they really aren't K series killers like everyone thinks. And most turbo d-series can't beat a stock H2B swap like that one guy was saying.

 

A tuned Type R with a good header, exhaust, clutch and flywheel will be just as fast as an H2B and just as reliable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92_VX_EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anything fast Honda wise takes maintenance. An H2B is out of the question for you since you can't even do an LS/Vtec. The block grinding sounds like it'd be too hard for you. Go buy a Type R swap and be done with it if you want to go fast and have reliablity. Its a simple swap and should be right up your alley. H2B would be faster than the JRSC'd B16... but they really aren't K series killers like everyone thinks. And most turbo d-series can't beat a stock H2B swap like that one guy was saying.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha. When i said i was mechanically challenged as of now i meant NOW becuae my cousin has my tools and im not getting it back for a while. I didn't mean that i didnt know how to do a frank but dont compare an H2B to a frank becuase its WORLDS easier than an LS/VTEC. And the thing is is that i DONT want a b series. They're TOO expensive. And remember, i said i didnt want a b16 jrsc anymore. But thanks for your feedback. Im still waiting for the "turbo is unreliable no matter what" response. ANYONE? Cheers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92_VX_EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A tuned Type R with a good header, exhaust, clutch and flywheel will be just as fast as an H2B and just as reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whoa i think you have ur facts wrong. No Type R with a good header, etc will be as fast as an H2B with all the same stuff done to it. UNLESS ur Type R is special as some are.


Modified by forc3dinduction at 10:37 PM 3/29/2008

 

why not just get an ls and boost that?around $3,500 with close to 300 whp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just get an ls and boost that?around $3,500 with close to 300 whp? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm...good idea. Which tranny to use then? LS? Im still wondering about the Horror stories ive heard about blown turbo engines EVEN on a good tune CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PLEASE help me on this? COME ON TOM. I know u know something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just get an ls and boost that?around $3,500 with close to 300 whp? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I paid $750 for my LS swap, $2700 would be a nice chunk of change for a turbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forc3dinduction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hmmm...good idea. Which tranny to use then? LS? Im still wondering about the Horror stories ive heard about blown turbo engines EVEN on a good tune CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PLEASE help me on this? COME ON TOM. I know u know something.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LS tranny, on an LS motor, with boost, is a great/cheap combo, but if you start pushing north of 300hp, and/or north of 8PSI of boost, you had better be ready to break ****. Just because you've 'seen' reliable 400hp Turbo LS's doesn't mean they all are, keep that in mind (Albeit, My vote would defiantly be for a Turbo LS, EASY swap!!!)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I paid $750 for my LS swap, $2700 would be a nice chunk of change for a turbo



LS tranny, on an LS motor, with boost, is a great/cheap combo, but if you start pushing north of 300hp, and/or north of 8PSI of boost, you had better be ready to break ****. Just because you've 'seen' reliable 400hp Turbo LS's doesn't mean they all are, keep that in mind (Albeit, My vote would defiantly be for a Turbo LS, EASY swap!!!)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha. then that would be my second LS. LOL but i was talking about a thread i read a while back where Tom's friend had his engine blown from a turbo that was 7 or 8 PSI ( i cant remember) but anyways...its BLEW on 8 PSI....i just want to know if that a turbo is THAT unreliable or maybe it was just the motor that had the problem....

 

go h22 , the turdo d will make almost the same torque as a stock h22. but the sohc turbo is fun ,specialy when you beat on some body and then u show them your junkyard turbo set up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forc3dinduction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haha. then that would be my second LS. LOL but i was talking about a thread i read a while back where Tom's friend had his engine blown from a turbo that was 7 or 8 PSI ( i cant remember) but anyways...its BLEW on 8 PSI....i just want to know if that a turbo is THAT unreliable or maybe it was just the motor that had the problem....</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was the motor or Tune. I've seen stock block B18's hold 400hp at 11-12PSI of boost on a good tune, one of which I know is daily driven.

No matter what way you go, If you boost, you need good tuning software or a good tuner. Chances are your buddy installed a 'rising rate fuel pressure regulator' which adds more fuel Dependant upon boost. They are $50 and allow you to 'boost' your car, Or he was running his car on a 'base map' or an ECU/setup not programmed FOR his car by someone in person, or he did it incorrectly.

Rising Rate FPR's also fail frequently, which would cause and instant lean condition, so if it failed under boost, you would blow the engine pretty much immediately...