Rusted rear suspension bolt (searched)
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Indianapolis, IN, US
Rusted rear suspension bolt (searched)
This is the bolt used to adjust toe in/out and it will start with an air impact but appears fused to the bushing (surprise). Anybody have experience with this bolt? I'm trying to get my rear discs on the '93 Civic and there isn't access to the bolt if I were to cut it off. The bolt on the opposite side of the stamped part wouldn't budge, or I would have just left it alone and swapped rear pieces minus this part. 10 days in a row with PB Blaster and an impact. Shot in the dark here. TIA.
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From: PA, US
Re: Rusted rear suspension bolt (realdealryan)
hate to say it but you're s.o.l. going to have to torch the bushing then you'll be able to get it out. then you're going to have to get a new one put in there.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Rusted rear suspension bolt (realdealryan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realdealryan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is the bolt used to adjust toe in/out and it will start with an air impact but appears fused to the bushing (surprise). Anybody have experience with this bolt? I'm trying to get my rear discs on the '93 Civic and there isn't access to the bolt if I were to cut it off. The bolt on the opposite side of the stamped part wouldn't budge, or I would have just left it alone and swapped rear pieces minus this part. 10 days in a row with PB Blaster and an impact. Shot in the dark here. TIA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Been there.
This is what I had to do:
loosen the bolt as much as it would loosen without completely tearing the part of the subframe that it attatches to. Beat the F out of the bolt head. The bushing will either seperate or the rail nut will fall off the rail on the inside of the chassis (most likely).
When the rail nut falls off, (it happened to me) you have to cut an access hole in the chassis where the nut is. Cut off the bolt you circled at the closest point to the chassis. Remove the rail nut and try to get the bolt out of it. It should come out fairly easily with some heat and persuasion with vice grips. Get a new bolt. Tuck the rail nut back into the rail. Get someone to weld a plate back onto the "access" hole you just cut.
Done.
**By rail nut, I mean that the nut that attatches to that bolt (the one you circled) is situated on a rail/track. It moves back and forth so that you can adjust toe.
Or you could just take off the bolt at the trailing arm side. It's a pain in the ***, I know. But you can loosen the bolt that's got the bushing stuck to it enough to pivot the trailing arm down. You should still be able to loosen the circled bolt enough to adjust toe. Save yourself the pain and shame and try to do it this way first.
This is the bolt used to adjust toe in/out and it will start with an air impact but appears fused to the bushing (surprise). Anybody have experience with this bolt? I'm trying to get my rear discs on the '93 Civic and there isn't access to the bolt if I were to cut it off. The bolt on the opposite side of the stamped part wouldn't budge, or I would have just left it alone and swapped rear pieces minus this part. 10 days in a row with PB Blaster and an impact. Shot in the dark here. TIA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Been there.
This is what I had to do:
loosen the bolt as much as it would loosen without completely tearing the part of the subframe that it attatches to. Beat the F out of the bolt head. The bushing will either seperate or the rail nut will fall off the rail on the inside of the chassis (most likely).
When the rail nut falls off, (it happened to me) you have to cut an access hole in the chassis where the nut is. Cut off the bolt you circled at the closest point to the chassis. Remove the rail nut and try to get the bolt out of it. It should come out fairly easily with some heat and persuasion with vice grips. Get a new bolt. Tuck the rail nut back into the rail. Get someone to weld a plate back onto the "access" hole you just cut.
Done.
**By rail nut, I mean that the nut that attatches to that bolt (the one you circled) is situated on a rail/track. It moves back and forth so that you can adjust toe.
Or you could just take off the bolt at the trailing arm side. It's a pain in the ***, I know. But you can loosen the bolt that's got the bushing stuck to it enough to pivot the trailing arm down. You should still be able to loosen the circled bolt enough to adjust toe. Save yourself the pain and shame and try to do it this way first.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Rusted rear suspension bolt (CivicSH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get that **** hot!! and start reemin!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will have to melt the bushing, get fiery bushing everywhere, then reach the metal sleeve that the bolt is actually stuck to....heat that up, dodge more flaming bushing....bat flaming bushing out of your hair, and then it'll heat up enough to release. Buy a fire extinguisher...and dont put any hair product in.
You will have to melt the bushing, get fiery bushing everywhere, then reach the metal sleeve that the bolt is actually stuck to....heat that up, dodge more flaming bushing....bat flaming bushing out of your hair, and then it'll heat up enough to release. Buy a fire extinguisher...and dont put any hair product in.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 56
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From: Indianapolis, IN, US
Re: Rusted rear suspension bolt (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Been there.
This is what I had to do:
loosen the bolt as much as it would loosen without completely tearing the part of the subframe that it attatches to. Beat the F out of the bolt head. The bushing will either seperate or the rail nut will fall off the rail on the inside of the chassis (most likely).
When the rail nut falls off, (it happened to me) you have to cut an access hole in the chassis where the nut is. Cut off the bolt you circled at the closest point to the chassis. Remove the rail nut and try to get the bolt out of it. It should come out fairly easily with some heat and persuasion with vice grips. Get a new bolt. Tuck the rail nut back into the rail. Get someone to weld a plate back onto the "access" hole you just cut.
Done.
**By rail nut, I mean that the nut that attatches to that bolt (the one you circled) is situated on a rail/track. It moves back and forth so that you can adjust toe.
Or you could just take off the bolt at the trailing arm side. It's a pain in the ***, I know. But you can loosen the bolt that's got the bushing stuck to it enough to pivot the trailing arm down. You should still be able to loosen the circled bolt enough to adjust toe. Save yourself the pain and shame and try to do it this way first. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Kind of what I figured. I weld, but I don't want to weld on the bottom of the car. I got the driver's side off the second way, but the bolt broke on the passenger side, so I was SOL and cut that stamped part in half with the sawzall to pull the whole assembly out of the way for better access.
It appears that the area is obstructed by a part that is pinch welded in place, a kind of a cover, so I guess I'll just get the cutter out and find my way in there...
***Gotta love the midwest: no job and school full time and I have a decent-sized brand-new house and garage; standard of the living ftw. Under-car corrosion
Been there.
This is what I had to do:
loosen the bolt as much as it would loosen without completely tearing the part of the subframe that it attatches to. Beat the F out of the bolt head. The bushing will either seperate or the rail nut will fall off the rail on the inside of the chassis (most likely).
When the rail nut falls off, (it happened to me) you have to cut an access hole in the chassis where the nut is. Cut off the bolt you circled at the closest point to the chassis. Remove the rail nut and try to get the bolt out of it. It should come out fairly easily with some heat and persuasion with vice grips. Get a new bolt. Tuck the rail nut back into the rail. Get someone to weld a plate back onto the "access" hole you just cut.
Done.
**By rail nut, I mean that the nut that attatches to that bolt (the one you circled) is situated on a rail/track. It moves back and forth so that you can adjust toe.
Or you could just take off the bolt at the trailing arm side. It's a pain in the ***, I know. But you can loosen the bolt that's got the bushing stuck to it enough to pivot the trailing arm down. You should still be able to loosen the circled bolt enough to adjust toe. Save yourself the pain and shame and try to do it this way first. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Kind of what I figured. I weld, but I don't want to weld on the bottom of the car. I got the driver's side off the second way, but the bolt broke on the passenger side, so I was SOL and cut that stamped part in half with the sawzall to pull the whole assembly out of the way for better access.
It appears that the area is obstructed by a part that is pinch welded in place, a kind of a cover, so I guess I'll just get the cutter out and find my way in there...
***Gotta love the midwest: no job and school full time and I have a decent-sized brand-new house and garage; standard of the living ftw. Under-car corrosion
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 17, 2005 03:20 PM
