OMP 6-point bolt in cage for the Type R (pics)
For those of you who know me - I have been taking my Type R to the track pretty much as soon as I got it. I own a 2000 PY Type R that I bought in February 2000. Since then, it has been a real pleasure learning more about the car and evolving with it as a driver. The car initially started out with an AEM intake - then I bought better tires and brake pads, then I got a Mugen header and exhaust, a little later I got camgears and a FPR, then I did the suspension, then I installed a race seat (so I could heel/toe easier and fit in the car with a helmet
) and so on and so on.
This has resulted in very subtle changes to the car's characteristics along the way. Lately -as my driving skill (and speed) has improved I have become concerned about the potential dangers of a rollover (never seen one in person btw) at a track event and I also wanted to venture into the realm of high spring rates - but I knew I had to do something about the chassis rigidity. I questioned whether or not the unibody could take the stresses of really high spring rates and still handle well......
Well I finally bit the bullet and had a roll cage installed. But which one to get?? I picked the OMP cage because my friend is a distributor for OMP (Frank Miccuci at Drivers Edge Autosport and his wonder mechanic Carlos
) and the fact that it is a bolt in made specifically for the Type R.
A little about the cage. It is a Fe45 steel design that is FIA approved. My car is meant to only be a track car - so I really did not want the inconvenience of door bars nor to have to remove the skins on my doors - I mean I still want a car that is somewhat comfortable to drive on the street. I know that the SCCA has some pretty strict rules regarding cage design - and felt that although the tubing in the front <u>may</u> be outside of what is approved for race use - again it suited my purposes - which were mainly for handling improvement and rollover safety.
The cage does require some trimming of the dash - but you DO retain use of the glovebox and both side defrost vents. You also get to keep your rear speakers. It is designed as a bolt in and weighs in at about 60 lbs or so. I elected to have the front bars welded to the sills of the car at the recommendation of Frank. The rears are bolted in with heavy gauge bolts, lock washers and custom backing plates. The main hoop bolts up to the stock seat belt anchors. Fit is extremely tight to the stock headliner. You do lose the ability to use the sunshades - but that's what visor banners are for anyways. The cage was powdercoated locally in a gunmetal gray color and turned out really well.
I am currently running 400 # Eibach ERS springs in front and 600 # springs in the rear using a 26mm Mugen rear sway bar. I have also a Spoon rear strut tower bar (thanks to A&J Racing
). Future plans include higher spring rates and better dampers (Moton or Mugen N1). But that would make the car more of a trailer queen and I'm not prepared to go there just yet.
The car handles a lot differently especially in the wet. Understeer is more prevalent in general. In the dry-----different story - can you say 4 wheel drift?? I have not had so much fun with the car in a long time.
I need to get my car corner balanced and realigned now (along with a few more mods
) Now these observations were made on street tires as it was raining at the track yesterday. I'm sure with R compounds things will be different yet again.
More pics to come as the project progesses......
Here is also a funny pic of Ddub's motor. This cracks me up! (his car is the CW Type R in the above pics)
) and so on and so on.This has resulted in very subtle changes to the car's characteristics along the way. Lately -as my driving skill (and speed) has improved I have become concerned about the potential dangers of a rollover (never seen one in person btw) at a track event and I also wanted to venture into the realm of high spring rates - but I knew I had to do something about the chassis rigidity. I questioned whether or not the unibody could take the stresses of really high spring rates and still handle well......
Well I finally bit the bullet and had a roll cage installed. But which one to get?? I picked the OMP cage because my friend is a distributor for OMP (Frank Miccuci at Drivers Edge Autosport and his wonder mechanic Carlos
) and the fact that it is a bolt in made specifically for the Type R.A little about the cage. It is a Fe45 steel design that is FIA approved. My car is meant to only be a track car - so I really did not want the inconvenience of door bars nor to have to remove the skins on my doors - I mean I still want a car that is somewhat comfortable to drive on the street. I know that the SCCA has some pretty strict rules regarding cage design - and felt that although the tubing in the front <u>may</u> be outside of what is approved for race use - again it suited my purposes - which were mainly for handling improvement and rollover safety.
The cage does require some trimming of the dash - but you DO retain use of the glovebox and both side defrost vents. You also get to keep your rear speakers. It is designed as a bolt in and weighs in at about 60 lbs or so. I elected to have the front bars welded to the sills of the car at the recommendation of Frank. The rears are bolted in with heavy gauge bolts, lock washers and custom backing plates. The main hoop bolts up to the stock seat belt anchors. Fit is extremely tight to the stock headliner. You do lose the ability to use the sunshades - but that's what visor banners are for anyways. The cage was powdercoated locally in a gunmetal gray color and turned out really well.
I am currently running 400 # Eibach ERS springs in front and 600 # springs in the rear using a 26mm Mugen rear sway bar. I have also a Spoon rear strut tower bar (thanks to A&J Racing
). Future plans include higher spring rates and better dampers (Moton or Mugen N1). But that would make the car more of a trailer queen and I'm not prepared to go there just yet.The car handles a lot differently especially in the wet. Understeer is more prevalent in general. In the dry-----different story - can you say 4 wheel drift?? I have not had so much fun with the car in a long time.
I need to get my car corner balanced and realigned now (along with a few more mods
) Now these observations were made on street tires as it was raining at the track yesterday. I'm sure with R compounds things will be different yet again.More pics to come as the project progesses......
Here is also a funny pic of Ddub's motor. This cracks me up! (his car is the CW Type R in the above pics)
Really nice cage. I dig the padding also.
for real though, door bars really aren't that much of a pia. my car felt 10x better after the 6 pt cage install.
D
for real though, door bars really aren't that much of a pia. my car felt 10x better after the 6 pt cage install.
D
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2 questions..
1: Whats in the place of the passenger SRS?
2: Are you comfortable running without a harness bar?
1: Whats in the place of the passenger SRS?
2: Are you comfortable running without a harness bar?
2. Harness bars are only really necessary if the angle of the belt exceeds 45 degrees after passing through the seat. The seat is supposed to flex backwards and forwards a bit during an accident - it's designed to - so you don't want to inhibit the seats ability to do this. the holes in the seat are ABOVE my shoulders when I am sitting down. I may add one in the future - but I don't think it will make anything safer. I really should consider a 6 point belt instead.
[Modified by Phat Bastard, 7:25 PM 7/9/2002]
PB -- how about a link.
Yeah, I know ... do a search! hehe
Here's a question, what about the rear seatback/seats in general?
[Modified by Zygspeed, 10:31 PM 7/9/2002]
Yeah, I know ... do a search! hehe
Here's a question, what about the rear seatback/seats in general?
[Modified by Zygspeed, 10:31 PM 7/9/2002]
Here's a question, what about the rear seatback/seats in general?
I will have just carpet back there when it's all done. the extra noise in the car is not that bad - plus I will be able to hear my Bazooka SW better!
hehe ... since I do a substantial number of highway miles (finally turned 114K miles on the way to work today)
the rear seatbacks keep the "luggage" away from prying eyes (when the cargo cover is used), and things placed on the rear seat from flying around ... too much.
Am I the only one that straps groceries into the front passenger seat with the seatbelt?
[Modified by Zygspeed, 11:14 PM 7/9/2002]
the rear seatbacks keep the "luggage" away from prying eyes (when the cargo cover is used), and things placed on the rear seat from flying around ... too much.
Am I the only one that straps groceries into the front passenger seat with the seatbelt?
[Modified by Zygspeed, 11:14 PM 7/9/2002]
Nice!!
Post more pics of the cage (How about some shots of where it is welded?)
1. Does the ecu need to be relocated?
2. What needs to be relocated on the drivers side?
Link and costs will be helpful
Post more pics of the cage (How about some shots of where it is welded?)
1. Does the ecu need to be relocated?
2. What needs to be relocated on the drivers side?
Link and costs will be helpful
Nice!!
Post more pics of the cage (How about some shots of where it is welded?)
1. Does the ecu need to be relocated?
2. What needs to be relocated on the drivers side?
Link and costs will be helpful
Post more pics of the cage (How about some shots of where it is welded?)
1. Does the ecu need to be relocated?
2. What needs to be relocated on the drivers side?
Link and costs will be helpful
More pics to come (but I have to wash my car first)
I want it, I want it, I want it.
I love how it follows the pillars in the front so you don't have to be contortionist (sp?) to get in the vehicle. It looks like you can still put back in the rear seat bottom (for sound insulation if so desired). Question: Did you have to remove the dash to install it? All factory plastic panels are still in place? Did you have to drill any holes? I too would like to see pics of the front mounting point.
I love how it follows the pillars in the front so you don't have to be contortionist (sp?) to get in the vehicle. It looks like you can still put back in the rear seat bottom (for sound insulation if so desired). Question: Did you have to remove the dash to install it? All factory plastic panels are still in place? Did you have to drill any holes? I too would like to see pics of the front mounting point.
glad my NSX calipers went to a good home
cage looks great
johnathan - I checked the tracking number and it says arrival date should be on the 11th so ...........
cage looks great
johnathan - I checked the tracking number and it says arrival date should be on the 11th so ...........
is it just me or does it look like i was designed for a rhd car...
the triangulation should go towards thedrivers side shouldnt it?
any ways..looks good!
the triangulation should go towards thedrivers side shouldnt it?
any ways..looks good!







Ed
