On my 99 Civic, the wiper combo switch is on the blink.

When I pull the arm to wash, the fluid sprays but the wipers do not work. The intermittent function does not work, but the slow and fast speeds do work when the switch is in those positions respectively.

Here is the kicker though:
All the arm functions (wash/intermittent/slow/fast), work properly WHEN THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH IS TURNED ON.

Any suggestions?

 

My recommendation would be to replace the combination switch. You might be able to get one cheap at a local salvage yard.

 

I tried that, I went to the local pick/pull and got one out of an 00 civic. It does the same thing. I suppose I could have gotten a bad one there to go with my bad one I currently have. I was just wondering before I paid 70 bucks for a new one, if there might be something else that someone had wrong with theirs. Thanks for the input though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patpeery &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried that, I went to the local pick/pull and got one out of an 00 civic. It does the same thing. I suppose I could have gotten a bad one there to go with my bad one I currently have. I was just wondering before I paid 70 bucks for a new one, if there might be something else that someone had wrong with theirs. Thanks for the input though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This diagram may help to determine whether your two combination switches are good or bad:

 

I will check this, thank you very very much.

 

I checked the light switch for continuity, all was normal. I also checked all the continuity for the wiper switch in all positions (I found a diagram). Both switches checked out normal. Any other things?

Still when I pull the washer arm to wash, the fluid sprays but the wiper will not activate UNTIL I turn on the parking or headlamp switch. The intermittent will not activate UNTIL I turn on the parking or headlamp switch. This is very confusing!!


Modified by patpeery at 9:51 PM 3/28/2008

 

I cleaned the ground wire, still doing the same. Is there a relay under the dash that could be bad here?

 

Yeah, the Integrated Control Unit may be bad. First check whether fuse 26 is blown. If not, here's how to troubleshoot the ICU:

 

Thanks Ron, I will post my results. I appreciate your help.

 

B1 and B2, no continuity. I suppose I could have checked the switch incorrectly, since it says it could be the switch, motor, or open wire. Fuse is patent. I have ordered a new switch and will check it today. If it is not the switch, then I will move on to the wiper motor. I can get one at the junkyard. Will post results.

 

Got the brand new switch. No change. Still dead in intermittent and wash unless the lights are on. I am at my wits end here. I checked the wires out under the hood going to the wiper motor. All 4 of them have 12 volts in the wire and the wiper motor works fine with all the settings on the wiper switch, but only when the light switch is on. I don't know what else to do.

 

Confusing??? Did you do all the ICU input tests or just some of them? If you only completed a subset of the ICU tests, I would suggest that you do the rest. The answer may be found in the remaining tests, particularly those testing the light switch circuit.

Also note that there is no direct test for proper ICU function. The ICU Input Test directions state that "-If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it."


Modified by RonJ@HT at 5:26 PM 4/1/2008


Modified by RonJ@HT at 5:27 PM 4/1/2008

 

that is why electrical shops cost so much
you probably have a short in the wires somewhere...
check everything as Ron mentioned that's the only way to find it

 

i bought a shell that had the same thing. the fool tryed to do a wire tuck and crossed grounds and light wires. had to undo the hacked tuck and trace every wire.

 

I will check ALL the lines when I get a chance. I also have other problems that may be related to this whole mess. Every time I get in the car, after the interior light fades off, I put the key in the ignition and bam, the interior light comes on and fades off, just as if I had opened the door again.

Also, this morning I got in and shut the door. After the interior light went off, I put the key in and bam the interior light came on and faded (as usual) but before I started my engine, I turned the keyto the on position. I turned the wiper switch on as it was raining, back and forth a couple of times to see if it might have decided to work when lo and behold this switching of the wiper switch causes the CHECK ENGINE light to come on, and I haven't even started the car!!!

 

The ceiling light is also regulated by the Integrated Control Unit, hinting that it may be the main source of your electrical problems.

When the ignition key is turned to ON without cranking the engine, the CEL should to turn ON for about 2 seconds and then turn OFF. If the CEL remains lit, then there is a code stored in the ECU. Here's how to retrieve the code:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

 

I have a friend of mine at AutoZone that will hook me up to the OBD code reader. I will report the results after I get it checked. Thanks for helping Ron, we are gonna get this resolved yet!

 

P0135 Primary heated oxygen sensor. Reset the code no problem.

 

so it was the heated oxyen sensor

 

Could a bad oxygen sensor cause these problems, or was it just an electric surge in the wiper click that caused a random kick out of code? (Would replacing the oxygen sensor do anything to help)?

 

Separate issues

 

So I probably DO need to replace the o2 sensor on my manifold?

 

If the CEL has not returned after resetting the ECU, then ignore the original O2 sensor code.

If the CEL has returned and the same O2 sensor code is again stored in the ECU, then you may need either to replace the O2 sensor or to repair a faulty O2 sensor circuit.

 

The CEL has stayed off and the car runs fine so I will sit tight. I will continue to post regarding this wiper thing as I try and get it worked out. Thanks.

 

Ron, I ended up taking it in to the Honda mechanic. 2 days, and over 20 hours of tech time later: A short in the ignition switch and I needed a new fuse box under the hood. They said either one caused the other, just not sure how. They even had to call tech support at the Honda Motor Corp because they had a devil of a timie tracking down the "stubborn gremlin". Bottom line: 800.00, ouch. thanks for your help though. I never would have found out how to fix this one. I just gave up.