whats your honest opinion for this kit?
What up Mark? I bought my 92 GSR back from my cousin. Engine is blown but Im going to be throwing these pistons and ARP rod bolts in an LS block and boosting it since the B17 is shot. Since Im not going to be driving it everyday these pistons should do just fine. Shooting for like 350-400whp. Im just getting the pistons and rings though, not this entire kit. What you thinking of putting these in?
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From: A gas station with 87, 89, 91, 92, 93 octane, FL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00nFed EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I want reliability</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say the quality of your turbo kit, followed by proper tuning would have a greater impact in terms of reliability. Anything wrong with motor as-is?
I want reliability</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say the quality of your turbo kit, followed by proper tuning would have a greater impact in terms of reliability. Anything wrong with motor as-is?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Anderson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd say the quality of your turbo kit, followed by proper tuning would have a greater impact in terms of reliability. Anything wrong with motor as-is?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im rebuilding the gsr. 20 over new bearings si ind valves and new jdm gsr pistons
I'd say the quality of your turbo kit, followed by proper tuning would have a greater impact in terms of reliability. Anything wrong with motor as-is?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im rebuilding the gsr. 20 over new bearings si ind valves and new jdm gsr pistons
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What are your power goals and what fuel grade do you plan to run?? Also, give us some details on the setup.
By lowering the compression, you can push a certain grade of fuel further without worry of detontion; however, you decrease the amount of power made per psi on your turbo. These are also cast pistons and will still have the same possible issues as stock compression OEM pistons. I think its an ok idea if you're rebuilding anyway, but if you're going to tear down an engine to install these, dont bother.
By lowering the compression, you can push a certain grade of fuel further without worry of detontion; however, you decrease the amount of power made per psi on your turbo. These are also cast pistons and will still have the same possible issues as stock compression OEM pistons. I think its an ok idea if you're rebuilding anyway, but if you're going to tear down an engine to install these, dont bother.
these are oem ls pistons, nothing fancy. low c/r which is good for turbo, but if you have the motor all apart you might as well throw some forged parts in there.
I would say spend a couple hundred more and just do it right. You can do something as simple as arias pistons/eagle rods, oem headgasket & bearings. That would be a solid setup. I always suggest that you use OEM bearings sized to OEM specs. The engine is always more reliable.
well they are doing 20 over (81.5mm) because I guess its a bit scorred so thats what I did? ok tho?
Also I am buying a ebay kit and replacing the wastegate, blow off valve and mani with tial and a local fab shops mani. What kinda turbo should I get? t3/t4?
Also I am buying a ebay kit and replacing the wastegate, blow off valve and mani with tial and a local fab shops mani. What kinda turbo should I get? t3/t4?
I wouldn't even bother with an Ebay turbo kit. You're going to need to replace damn near everything other than the IC piping if you want it to be reliable. IMO, buy something from the Marketplace and run that instead.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00nFed EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also I am buying a ebay kit and replacing the wastegate, blow off valve and mani with tial and a local fab shops mani. What kinda turbo should I get? t3/t4?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, then why buy the "kit" if you are going to replace 75 percent of the stuff that it came with
Save that money and buy a real turbo.
Also I am buying a ebay kit and replacing the wastegate, blow off valve and mani with tial and a local fab shops mani. What kinda turbo should I get? t3/t4?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, then why buy the "kit" if you are going to replace 75 percent of the stuff that it came with
Save that money and buy a real turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00nFed EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much are those?? I kinda wanna stay under 1k for the kit excluding my stuff im replacing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your most likely not gonna find a complete kit for under 1k id suggest you get your money together before you attempt this.
Your most likely not gonna find a complete kit for under 1k id suggest you get your money together before you attempt this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't even bother with an Ebay turbo kit. You're going to need to replace damn near everything other than the IC piping if you want it to be reliable. IMO, buy something from the Marketplace and run that instead. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I WHOLE HEARTEDLY AGREE.
I just replaced my wastegate and manifold, I'm probably going to buy an sc34 next. I'm pretty much keeping everything else.
I WHOLE HEARTEDLY AGREE.
I just replaced my wastegate and manifold, I'm probably going to buy an sc34 next. I'm pretty much keeping everything else.
A Wiggins Clamp??? With an Ebay turbo kit...... in for pics
Still confused though, you are going to spend 7 or 800 for this egay turbo kit, anf you are only going to use the Turbo/Piping/Int. You can buy a Garrett 60 trim for like 550 and piping is cheap as hell, used Intercoolers are also cheap, the EBay piping is going to fit wrong anyway so you are going to have to hack it up anyway, but w/e to each his own.
Still confused though, you are going to spend 7 or 800 for this egay turbo kit, anf you are only going to use the Turbo/Piping/Int. You can buy a Garrett 60 trim for like 550 and piping is cheap as hell, used Intercoolers are also cheap, the EBay piping is going to fit wrong anyway so you are going to have to hack it up anyway, but w/e to each his own.
You are not supposed to bump threads in the TECH forums, such as this.
IMO the ebay kits are nothing but trouble - ESPECIALLY the odds & ends like oil feed/drain parts. If you're replacing 2 or more major parts, don't bother getting it. I can tell you that using wiggins clamps on the ebay charge pipes will be a treat to see - the welds & pipes will fail far sooner than you'd think.
Given the price of those clamps and the welding required, you'd be better off getting some random 16ga aluminum bends, QUALITY silicone couplers, QUALITY t-bolt clamps, and a Garrett/MHI/IHI/KKK/Holset/Bullseye turbo, to name a few. Also the ebay tubular manifolds are nothing but problems too - there are many cases where people reweld/reinforce them, only to fail. If the base metal is ****, there's not much a decent weld can help with. My friend thought he'd give it a try, and ended up trashing his Tial WG and oil pan when the entire WG flange tore off the manifold, wedging his Tial in between the oil pan and road.
If you are deadset on getting ebay stuff, be prepaired. You will have to more than double your expected budget, unless you only want to stay boosted (reliably) for under 2 months.
Several people have given you their opinions, and most are against any typical ebay junk. It would be totally different if they were saying spend $2k on the turbo alone, a few thousand on the rest of the kit, and $1k for AEM ecu. All we're saying is don't use cheap ebay stuff. Name-brand parts for Hondas are about as inexpensive as they get for cars.
IMO the ebay kits are nothing but trouble - ESPECIALLY the odds & ends like oil feed/drain parts. If you're replacing 2 or more major parts, don't bother getting it. I can tell you that using wiggins clamps on the ebay charge pipes will be a treat to see - the welds & pipes will fail far sooner than you'd think.
Given the price of those clamps and the welding required, you'd be better off getting some random 16ga aluminum bends, QUALITY silicone couplers, QUALITY t-bolt clamps, and a Garrett/MHI/IHI/KKK/Holset/Bullseye turbo, to name a few. Also the ebay tubular manifolds are nothing but problems too - there are many cases where people reweld/reinforce them, only to fail. If the base metal is ****, there's not much a decent weld can help with. My friend thought he'd give it a try, and ended up trashing his Tial WG and oil pan when the entire WG flange tore off the manifold, wedging his Tial in between the oil pan and road.
If you are deadset on getting ebay stuff, be prepaired. You will have to more than double your expected budget, unless you only want to stay boosted (reliably) for under 2 months.
Several people have given you their opinions, and most are against any typical ebay junk. It would be totally different if they were saying spend $2k on the turbo alone, a few thousand on the rest of the kit, and $1k for AEM ecu. All we're saying is don't use cheap ebay stuff. Name-brand parts for Hondas are about as inexpensive as they get for cars.




