DIY cai dyno?
Thanks for that info..
I have an AEM and some people
were claiming that the bsq was as
good as the comptech icebox.
It basically the same design so I figured
it would be. Guess I'll stick with my AEM.
I do respect the bsq however.
I have an AEM and some people
were claiming that the bsq was as
good as the comptech icebox.
It basically the same design so I figured
it would be. Guess I'll stick with my AEM.
I do respect the bsq however.
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I have an AEM and some people
were claiming that the bsq was as
good as the comptech icebox.
It basically the same design so I figured
it would be. Guess I'll stick with my AEM.
I do respect the bsq however.
were claiming that the bsq was as
good as the comptech icebox.
It basically the same design so I figured
it would be. Guess I'll stick with my AEM.
I do respect the bsq however.
I was fairly pleased to see that the my Icetake did so
well against the AEM and the Iceman. I would like to
have seen a little bit higher HP in the upper RPM
range (7,500+ RPM). But over all I think it performed
pretty good...especially when you factor in the cost.
I have been giving some serious thought into the
reason why the Icetake CAI feel short (when compared
to the AEM and Iceman) on the dyno. I have two
theories.
The first theory is turbulence. I inspected the
Icetake tubing extensively after your dyno runs and I
did find a small area in the tubing which has a small
ridge. I found the ridge in the connection between
the 7" PVC tubing and the PVC 90 degree elbow. The
ridge only extends ~1/16" and for about 45 degrees of
the tubing. Now this may not sound like a big deal,
but as the velocity of the air is speeding up in the
tubing this ridge could cause enough turbulence inside
of the tubing which could disturb air flow especially
in the upper RPM range (7,500+ rpm). This can be
easily fixed by reversing the placement of the 7"
white tubing and the black air horn (speaker port).
The tubing fits snuggly together (no glue or adhesive
was used on the joints) so the tubing can be easily
reversed. This simple modification will eliminate the
ridge inside the tubing and eliminate any turbulance
inside the tubing which should show an improvement on
the dyno. It may not gain 6 HP (to make it equal with
the AEM), but it may show an improvement of 2-4 HP.
The second theory is tubing size as you had mentioned.
There is a possibility that the tubing size (3" in
diameter) is restricting air flow in the upper RPM
range. It would be nice to try a 3.5" tubing and air
horn, but I'm not aware of either in 3.5". But on the
flip side the AEM is only 3" in diameter for the
Type-R, so I'm not sure if increasing diameter is the
solution.
One last thought. A lot of people have commented that
the Comptech Icebox does not have the peak HP like the
AEM, so maybe by design the AEM will always have a
higher peak HP.
Since the time of emailing the above comments to Asahi, I have reviewed Asahi's dyno plot and Austin's (H-T Type-R board member) dyno plot (see below) which compares the actual Comptech Icebox vs. AEM vs. Injen and I have come up with the following conclusion. I noticed that in Austin's dyno plot, the Comptech Icebox also started to fall off (when compared to the AEM and Injen) around ~7500 rpm also. So, as mentioned the AEM may always have a slighly higher peak HP number. This could be caused my the design difference between the AEM and the Icebox/Icetake.
Larger image (cut and paste link): http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...1.jpg.orig.jpg
BTW, I am hoping to do some dyno runs comparing my Icetake CAI to the stock intake (and possible other intakes [ie. AEM, Iceman, Icebox]) on my '94 GS-R. When I do so, I will be sure to post the results.
[Modified by BSQ, 11:43 AM 7/10/2002]
Looking forward to seeing the comparison on a GSR Bret. I suspect you will see more of a gain on a GSR than on a Type-R due to stock airbox design.
I had some other thoughts. Position of the piping in the airbox (Too far in or not in enough) could play a part as well. I think turulance is the biggest problem.
Also on a GSR be sure if you keep the stock snorkle tube to remove the small resonator on the side and plug up the hole.
I had some other thoughts. Position of the piping in the airbox (Too far in or not in enough) could play a part as well. I think turulance is the biggest problem.
Also on a GSR be sure if you keep the stock snorkle tube to remove the small resonator on the side and plug up the hole.
wow 2-4hp... wheeeewwwwwww hooooooo now thats some power.....
wow.... which means the average intake falls into the 50$ for 1whp catagory... not a bad trade off...
sorry i just hate this nickle and dime bullshit when it comes to "going n/a"... or doing basic mods..
wow.... which means the average intake falls into the 50$ for 1whp catagory... not a bad trade off...
sorry i just hate this nickle and dime bullshit when it comes to "going n/a"... or doing basic mods..
wow 2-4hp... wheeeewwwwwww hooooooo now thats some power.....
wow.... which means the average intake falls into the 50$ for 1whp catagory... not a bad trade off...
sorry i just hate this nickle and dime bullshit when it comes to "going n/a"... or doing basic mods..
wow.... which means the average intake falls into the 50$ for 1whp catagory... not a bad trade off...
sorry i just hate this nickle and dime bullshit when it comes to "going n/a"... or doing basic mods..
What is the HP/dollar figure when the engine blows up? $65/ 1hp.
This is assuming not building the bottom end but if that was done properly you get back to the $50/hp number for FI
edit: spell check
[Modified by Asahi, 11:10 AM 7/10/2002]
wow 2-4hp... wheeeewwwwwww hooooooo now thats some power.....
wow.... which means the average intake falls into the 50$ for 1whp catagory... not a bad trade off...
sorry i just hate this nickle and dime bullshit when it comes to "going n/a"... or doing basic mods..
What does a turbo break down in HP per dollar? Figure if you get a drag gen 3 kit for $3000 (They are slightly less now) and bolt it on. Figure safe boost at 6-7 psi what hp will you be making? 80-90 whp more? Just over $30 for 1 whp. Now the trade off. Who has $3000 sitting around? Some but not all.
What is the HP/dollar figure when the engine blows up? $65/ 1hp.
This is assuming not building the bottom end but if that was done properly you get back to the $50/hp number for FI
edit: spell check
[Modified by Asahi, 11:10 AM 7/10/2002]
wow.... which means the average intake falls into the 50$ for 1whp catagory... not a bad trade off...
sorry i just hate this nickle and dime bullshit when it comes to "going n/a"... or doing basic mods..
What does a turbo break down in HP per dollar? Figure if you get a drag gen 3 kit for $3000 (They are slightly less now) and bolt it on. Figure safe boost at 6-7 psi what hp will you be making? 80-90 whp more? Just over $30 for 1 whp. Now the trade off. Who has $3000 sitting around? Some but not all.
What is the HP/dollar figure when the engine blows up? $65/ 1hp.
This is assuming not building the bottom end but if that was done properly you get back to the $50/hp number for FI
edit: spell check
[Modified by Asahi, 11:10 AM 7/10/2002]
BTW, that statement above in no reflects my opinion of FI. I think right under my ITR my choise would be a Turbo'd GSR or a SC'd B18C1 in a Civic Coupe.
FI is fun just pricey
FI is fun just pricey
Take 3000 dollars...
one guy does all "N/A" and one guy goes "turbo"
who do YOU think will be makieng more power?
one guy does all "N/A" and one guy goes "turbo"
who do YOU think will be makieng more power?
For the poor broke kid who doesn't have $3000, nickles and dimes are a viable way to go a little bit faster.
Yea but why go into a post on intakes and start bitchin that its nickle and dime stuff?
i guess i'm concerned AND a bitchy person today.. sorry..
BTW, I am hoping to do some dyno runs comparing my Icetake CAI to the stock intake (and possible other intakes [ie. AEM, Iceman, Icebox]) on my '94 GS-R. When I do so, I will be sure to post the results.
Maybe someone should put together
a "great intake test" just like the
"Great header test"
Maybe APE will be willing to do it some day.
BSQ intake still gets my
up.
Hehe, but wait, someone forgot the $1500.00 dollars worth of electronics one needs to run a turbo safely. For an all out HP war sure a turbo is the choice however I have seen many turbo cars fall prey to n/a street cars, by the time that turbo spools the other guy is at the next stop light. I think $5000.00 is a more realistic number for a fast, safe, reliable turbo car.
edit: spell check
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:10 PM 7/10/2002]
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:11 PM 7/10/2002]
edit: spell check
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:10 PM 7/10/2002]
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:11 PM 7/10/2002]
Hehe, but wait, someone forgot the $1500.00 dollars worth of electronics one needs to run a turbo safely. For an all out HP war sure a turbo is the choice however I have seen many turbo cars fall prey to n/a street cars, by the time that turbo spools the other guy is at the next stop light. I think $5000.00 is a more realistic number for a fast, safe, reliable turbo car.
edit: spell check
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:10 PM 7/10/2002]
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:11 PM 7/10/2002]
edit: spell check
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:10 PM 7/10/2002]
[Modified by CKDC2, 8:11 PM 7/10/2002]
I had an AEM CAI on my DOHC VTEC del sol... and i decided to order a piece of mandrel bent U pipe from JcWhitney.com... then i followed JDMfan.com's instructions on how to make a CAI... it turned out being a bit harder than I thought it would... but it was cool because my AEM was 2.25" and the one is 3" tubing. The only drawback was the fact that I went from the 2.25" K&N Filter to a 3" Weapon R filter that I had laying around...
All together I notice huge improvements w/ the 3" Custom Intake.. but I wish I had a better filter... some say Weapon R's aren't actually that bad... but they are so ricy
All together I notice huge improvements w/ the 3" Custom Intake.. but I wish I had a better filter... some say Weapon R's aren't actually that bad... but they are so ricy
I would be surprised if the custom manderl bent pipe is making much more power. Seems AEM's shape seems to be well thought through and more so than that compared to a mandrel bent intake is material. Would be interesting to see a dyno comparison. Is your sol a B16 or B18 swap? I would think a b16A would utilize the 3" intake as much as some B18C apps.
Any plans to dyno compare the 2?
Any plans to dyno compare the 2?
no, no plans.. in fact im selling my car and going turbo... the only reason i made the "custom one" is because it was 27 bucks in parts... and it was fun... Plus i sold my AEM CAI and got some money back before I sell it.
Also, dont give AEM too much credit... if u sand down the paint, u will see the welds too... it is mandrel bent aluminum pipe...
I chose to use Mandrel bent steel... which one is better u ask? Steel in this case, because it resists heat. So, my "custom" intake costs about 150 bucks less... and has WIDER tubing that is MORE heat resistant. Maybe I didnt get much gain, but i certainly didnt lose anything, except for a couple metal splinters
Also, dont give AEM too much credit... if u sand down the paint, u will see the welds too... it is mandrel bent aluminum pipe...
I chose to use Mandrel bent steel... which one is better u ask? Steel in this case, because it resists heat. So, my "custom" intake costs about 150 bucks less... and has WIDER tubing that is MORE heat resistant. Maybe I didnt get much gain, but i certainly didnt lose anything, except for a couple metal splinters
Noob question: Does using different air filters (comptech, K&N, OEM..etc) affect the dyno result in any way? Just curious.
And how the heck did you switch the black air horn and the 7" white piping? I can't pull it off.
Okay, may be I need to work out. 
Hey BSQ, the black air horn and 7" white piping aren't glued on to the PVC 90 degree bent elbow, right?
And how the heck did you switch the black air horn and the 7" white piping? I can't pull it off.
Okay, may be I need to work out. 
Hey BSQ, the black air horn and 7" white piping aren't glued on to the PVC 90 degree bent elbow, right?


