so, as long as i can remember my motor gets pretty hot. I can do as little as taking it down the street to get gas if it has already been warmed up and It will be too hot to touch the dipstick. There is nothing normal about this IMO. I figured it may be the OEM radiator not being up to task with the motor, but after installing my C&R today, nothing has changed. My oem gauge seems to work correctly. during expo 6 it came close to the centerline but usually only comes to an 1/8 inch away from the center line. the valve cover is too hot to keep your hand on, and you have to handle the dipstick like a hot potato. although everything SEEMS to be functioning normally im concerned for the well being of my motor.

so i suppose the question is what are some causes of overheating WITHOUT actually overheating?

what is standard operating temp on a high compression motor?

compression tested and leak downed with flying colors.

would running too RICH cause the motor to get hot? it is NOT tuned correctly and needs to be retuned.

a long while ago, i accidently sucked the little IACV gasket through the intake manifold. nothing changed, but could that have incinerated or broken up and clogged an oil passage? there would be no way for it to get past the rings without it being completely destroyed right? it would have to exit through the exhaust port.

Modified by heel_touge at 4:24 AM 3/27/2008


Modified by heel_touge at 4:30 AM 3/27/2008

 

running a stock thermostat and switch?

 

Based on your description I don't see much of a problem there.
Next time just throw on a pair of these...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuckMyDOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">running a stock thermostat and switch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes.
i DO NOT know if it infact is ACURA thermostat though. I do know i have a newer waterpump. everything that was for this motor was OEM so i assume it is OEM thermostat. and i believe it has not been changed.

most of the motor is fresh but the car has 90K on it. it may have never been switched out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Based on your description I don't see much of a problem there.
Next time just throw on a pair of these...
</TD></TR></TABLE>


hahaha, i think its more like one of these.

 

hahaha.

 

partially opening thermostat? do they do that? or just get stuck all the way open or closed.

 

The thermostat mechanism has a spring that expands and retracts according to water temps, so I would say that the diaphragm fluctuates according to coolant temps in an attempt to regulate heat.

The thermostat mechanism, and even the fan switch for that matter are pneumatic, self sustained systems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thermostat mechanism has a spring that expands and retracts according to water temps, so I would say that the diaphragm fluctuates according to coolant temps in an attempt to regulate heat.

The thermostat mechanism, and even the fan switch for that matter are pneumatic, self sustained systems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if there is a problem with the diaphragm, like a puncture or its jammed, then it is very possible for it only to be functioning half way.

 

running rich will not make the car run hot but running lean would increase temps. Espically around the exhaust manifold where you say its really hot. But i wouldnt think you are running lean because you would know it. g/l figuring it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by heel_touge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, as long as i can remember my motor gets pretty hot. I can do as little as taking it down the street to get gas if it has already been warmed up and It will be too hot to touch the dipstick. There is nothing normal about this IMO. I figured it may be the OEM radiator not being up to task with the motor, but after installing my C&R today, nothing has changed. My oem gauge seems to work correctly. during expo 6 it came close to the centerline but usually only comes to an 1/8 inch away from the center line. the valve cover is too hot to keep your hand on, and you have to handle the dipstick like a hot potato. although everything SEEMS to be functioning normally im concerned for the well being of my motor.

so i suppose the question is what are some causes of overheating WITHOUT actually overheating?

what is standard operating temp on a high compression motor?

compression tested and leak downed with flying colors.

would running too RICH cause the motor to get hot? it is NOT tuned correctly and needs to be retuned.

a long while ago, i accidently sucked the little IACV gasket through the intake manifold. nothing changed, but could that have incinerated or broken up and clogged an oil passage? there would be no way for it to get past the rings without it being completely destroyed right? it would have to exit through the exhaust port.

Modified by heel_touge at 4:24 AM 3/27/2008


Modified by heel_touge at 4:30 AM 3/27/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>


I had a similar thing happen. Sometimes my temp gauge goes past the halfway mark though. Unfortunately I parked mine in the garage and haven't looked at it since. I'm curious to see what you find. I'm sure my motor is [freak]ed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by heel_touge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so if there is a problem with the diaphragm, like a puncture or its jammed, then it is very possible for it only to be functioning half way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Anything is possible

Mind you, a large portion of the thermostat is metal. If I'm thinking clearly this morning, there is a very very thin layer of rubber/silicon around the outer edge of the diaphragm that is used to create a seal when the thermostat is closed.

It is possible that parts of the gasket have deteriorated to the point that the thermostat is malfunctioning.

If you are worried about it...go to Autozone and spend the $25.00 on a replacement. Takes all of ten minutes to change. That would also be a good time to take some 400 grit sand paper to the ground wire located on the thermostat and clean up the contacts.

 

Is there really anything wrong here?
Mine has always been that hot too, even after a re-ring/rebuild, I'm positive I have good oil circulation and coolant etc. I think the f*ckers just get that hot?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there really anything wrong here?
Mine has always been that hot too, even after a re-ring/rebuild, I'm positive I have good oil circulation and coolant etc. I think the f*ckers just get that hot?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yea thats what I was thinking....sounds normal to me I could never touch my oil dip stick right after running the motor at operating temps without gloves or similiar to grab it with. Sounds like your fine man.

 

I think its the nature of the best.You gotta remeber what the R was built for , basically racing and spirited driving. It's a low displacement high revving motor. I had a concern last summer about this and my co workers RX-7 was the same way. If your really that worried throw it on a OTC scanner or Snap on and observe the coolant temp readings.

 

Should be fine man, nothing to worry too much about, they get hot to the touch no matter what, even if you drive easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea thats what I was thinking....sounds normal to me I could never touch my oil dip stick right after running the motor at operating temps without gloves or similiar to grab it with. Sounds like your fine man. </TD></TR></TABLE>

People who don't know how to remove a corner lens shouldn't be giving technical advice.

Mostly [freak]ing with you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there really anything wrong here?
Mine has always been that hot too, even after a re-ring/rebuild, I'm positive I have good oil circulation and coolant etc. I think the f*ckers just get that hot?</TD></TR></TABLE>


heat causes wear. heat robs power. heat is bad. Heat is a biproduct of an internal combustion engine, yes; BUT why not be concerned. excess heat could mean something is not functioning properly. this will also lead to premature wear. why not just get it all right instead of waiting till it breaks.

besides, i am a curious person and i like to understand how and why things do what they do. I enjoy analyzing problems and finding solutions.

at this point, without an actual water temp reading, everything is speculation.
with that said. Is there an easy way to take water temps without installing all sorts of autometer whoootinanny?
what are standard operating temps?
are water temps different between the head and block?

 

WTF? The exhaust gasses going through the header are, what, 1200* F? Coolant temp once fully warmed up should be around 220* +/-. Oil temp could be a bit higher then that. Human skin will scald at 100* and burn WELL before 200*. Sounds like you're just thinking your hand is a good thermometer.

Nate - sees nothing wrong with your car according to your post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sounds like you're just thinking your hand is a good thermometer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hence my "speculation" comment in the last post hahah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by heel_touge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hence my "speculation" comment in the last post hahah </TD></TR></TABLE>

j00r post wasn't up when I started mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by heel_touge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


heat causes wear. heat robs power. heat is bad.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Heat MAKES power. Hotter the mix more power it produces.

Makes me wish the b18 was magnessium.

 

i dont have a type r but on my ls the dipstick is just warm when i take it out after driving it for a while.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Heat MAKES power. Hotter the mix more power it produces.

Makes me wish the b18 was magnessium.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are correct. I should have chosen my words more carefully.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FRICTION causes wear. FRICTION robs power. FRICTION is bad. thermal energy is a biproduct of friction, yes; BUT why not be concerned. excess heat could mean something is not functioning properly. this will also lead to premature wear. why not just get it all right instead of waiting till it breaks..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

haha, i have a similar problem.... but my itr is turbo!