theres someting wrong with my engine its redline is a about 4k rpms well thats wat the tach says any ideas ? also my first gear goes upt to 35-40 mph and secound goes to75 very slowly 0 to 60 n bout 18 seconds !!

 

probably a problem with your distributor...check your codes its most likely a bad crank position sensor...also knowing what car/engine/obd your using helps a LOT when you ask vague questions like that....

 

ok car ef hatch engine stock d15b i checked the distritor its fine also im burning oil so what should i check next? also how do you check the ecu codes?

 

also it used to be an 4spd trany and i changed it to a 5 cause the second gear in the 4spd was bad would that have anything to do with it?

 

also check your timing it may be off

 

Your car is in limp mode because you have an engine code. Pull the code from your ECu and report back.

 

how do u pull the code?

 

i check ecu and the red dot is flashing?

 

ok it the red light flashes 10 times and then stops and the starts again?

 

Yup. Count the number of flashes and that's the code. A long flash is 10, short flashes are 1, add them up for the code. There will be a slight pause between codes if there are more than one.

 

Code 10 = Intake Air Temp sensor, it's on the passenger's side of the intake manifold, it has two wires running to it ( I forget the colors).

Test the sensor and wiring according to the specs in the CRX workshop manual (if you don't have one, download it from the link in the FAQ).
Here's a link to engine codes: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1710584

 

is it the sensor that has the two screws and i think a red and a yellow wire it broke i have it getto riged cause the screws woln't come off to tight but wat would have to do with power or acceleration?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by driftam1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it the sensor that has the two screws and i think a red and a yellow wire it broke i have it getto riged cause the screws woln't come off to tight but wat would have to do with power or acceleration?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the one. It tells the ECU the temperature of the air coming into the intake manifold so it can adjust fuel maps and set idle speed correctly. You need to un-ghetto rig it or else you won't be able to rev past 3200RPMs. Period.

Let this also be a lesson to you that ghetto-rigging anything on your car is a bad idea.

You should be able to snag a new one from a junkyard or in the parts thread at the top of the page.

 

yea i got 1 from the junk yard i had to getto rig it to get to the junk yard lol the only problem is that the screws wolnt come off any ideas? like ?

 

lol my ef 5th gear takes me to 45mph.at 3k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by driftam1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i got 1 from the junk yard i had to getto rig it to get to the junk yard lol the only problem is that the screws wolnt come off any ideas? like ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

PB Blaster + an impact driver. If that doesn't work, you may have to drill them out and re-tap.