was told to use castrol Gtx in my b16 when i had the swap done. Has all the bolt ons. Which would be better, for daily driving, the oil does burn up some from driving hard and i may possibly need to reseal my oil pan, but any other info on people that use the castrol gtx.


~518 for the win lol ~

 

Honda says to use 5W-30/10w-30, I use GTX Hi-Mi god stuff

Edited


Modified by mcvtec at 2:28 PM 3/25/2008

 

dont use 5-20w. thats recommended for some k series engine by honda. use 5w`-30w or 10w-30w. i use royal purple 5w-30w for my b16a engine.

 

if those are the only two choices, 10W30.

5W20 is too thin after the engine is warmed up.

 

10w-30 man!!! Full Syn.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda says to use 5W-30, I use GTX Hi-Mi god stuff </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont use 5-20w. thats recommended for some k series engine by honda. use 5w`-30w or 10w-30w. i use royal purple 5w-30w for my b16a engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

doesn't synthetic oil burn even faster than regular oil? and yes, i have seen the commercials comparing the two and the conventional oil car for some reason ALWAYS loses that battle in the commercials..but anyway, when i was having burning oil issues with my EJ8 (2000 EX), someone on this site had actually said that it is bad to use synthetic cause it burns faster, and that i should just use regular oil (i was using Mobil1 for every oil change) - im more than likely misinformed here, but just wanted to chime in so i can get an answer on this.

 

Modern Synthetic shouldn't make leaks happen, nor does it burn faster. That used to be true 20+ years ago, but not anymore. My favorite part about synthetic is the longer oil change intervals! Typically the filters will wear out before the oil becomes unsafe (in the neighborhood of around 7000 miles)

 

synthetic doesnt burn up easier than dino. Dino burns up quicker.

Synthetic will leak easier
dino will not

however dino will sludge, which IMO is the worst of them all.

Aslong as your PCV valve is working efficiently you shouldnt have a problem with sludge unless you drive a VW.

Honda recomends in some shops 5w20 for d16y8's. This is only for emission and enviornment reasons. I just use amsoil 100% synthetic and its perfectly fine. Its the only real 100% synthetic, royal purple is still dino oil, and mobil1 is a blend, where only the base fuels are synthetic, not the addatives.

 

castrol gtx high mileage 10w-30!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...royal purple is still dino oil, and mobil1 is a blend, where only the base fuels are synthetic, not the addatives.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've read that M1 is not a group IV, which means not a true synthetic. But this is the first time I've heard of RP not being a true synthetic. I've read that Amsoil, RP, Redline (and maybe a couple others) are all group IV. Do you have links backing up your post?

--I hope not to turn this into another oil thread. Just wanted a link. Thanks--

 

I use Mobil 5-30 in my 05 Subaru Legacy GT or what ever is on sale. I find Walmart has the Mobil for $8.98 for the 5 qt container. Car has 88,000 miles on it.

I have used Mobil 1 and Amsoil in the early to mid 80's but have use whatever is on sale since.

rota92's race car only got whatever was on sale, Exxon, Shell, Texaco, Mobil, Penzoil, we drove it for 216,000 miles with no oil related issues.

My 05GT has Cobb AP and we have played with the boost with a MBC and it's seen 21psi without a proper tune. It uses a little oil now but that's our fault not the oils. I found that it uses Mobil 5-30 at a slower rate then others.


Some of you may have seen that we run Enos 0-50 in the race motor. That engine was even dyno'ed and tuned on Castrol GTX 10-30 and may be made it's first few passes and won at Atco on Castrol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've read that M1 is not a group IV, which means not a true synthetic. But this is the first time I've heard of RP not being a true synthetic. I've read that Amsoil, RP, Redline (and maybe a couple others) are all group IV. Do you have links backing up your post?

--I hope not to turn this into another oil thread. Just wanted a link. Thanks--</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read around on BITOG. RP is a dino race oil, meant to be changed every 3-6k miles. just like mobil1 it breaks down pretty quick after 3k miles. I dont have any links but after months of searching for hours a day, I found there are only a VERY few 100% synthetics out tehre. German castrol, and amsoil 100% synthetic are the only ones ive found.

For the OP, fix any PCV issues and put some honda bond on the Valve cover

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Read around on BITOG. RP is a dino race oil, meant to be changed every 3-6k miles. just like mobil1 it breaks down pretty quick after 3k miles. I dont have any links but after months of searching for hours a day, I found there are only a VERY few 100% synthetics out tehre. German castrol, and amsoil 100% synthetic are the only ones ive found.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotcha. I will check out bob's site. I was going to try out Castrol 0W-30 (made in Ger. Available at Autozone), but it gets a bit too cold here for that. I will stick to Amsoil.