alright, im running a 1100W xplod with a 1000W kenwood amp. dual deck with a 2 farad tsunami cap. ever since i got my deck, before i put in my subs, the deck would flicker when the bass hit. then i installed my sub, amp and cap. and i thought the cap would make it so the deck wouldnt flicker but it didnt change anything. should the cap stop the flickering in the deck?
and btw. i havent driven at night with my subs yet since i only installed them yesterday so im not sure if my headlights are dimming or anything.
thanks

please dont pound down on capacitors either. i got this thing for a good price and i couldnt pass it up.

 

If the HU, ["deck"] was dimming before you added the sub it would indicate that it is not getting the current it needs, or there is something wrong with the HU.

If you wire the aftermarket HU to the cars radio harness, either with a harness adapter or hard wiring, the wiring is not "heavy" enough to carry the current the HU needs.
To insure the HU gets the current it needs, run a fused 12ga power lead directly from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [should be yellow] to it, don't forget to cap off the stock 12V+ constant, or pull the lead if using an adapter harness.
Also run a 12ga ground lead from the chassis of the HU to the cars chassis, if you use a metal back support for the HU and it is connected to the cars chassis, [OEM radio back support or ISO mounts] that will be a sufficient ground.

If after doing the above, or even before, have your charging system and batt. checked, most batt./alt. shops will do this for free, maybe you do have a minor charging problem.

Hopefully you have at least "beefed" up the batt. to chassis ground. 94

 

when you say " don't forget to cap off the stock 12V+ constant, or pull the lead if using an adapter harness." do you basically mean unplug the adapter harness from the stock radio harness and disconnect the - part of the batt.?

 

He means don't leave the car-side of that constant wire just dangling behind the dash. De-pin it from an adapter harness or cap it off with a crimped wire cap.

You probably just need to improve the ground to the radio. It's something I always do anyway. Just run a 12 or 14 or 16 gauge to a ring terminal to a star washer to a metal tapping screw into the frame of the car. 12 gauge to the battery is pretty extreme. I wont question the master, but on my car I usually just go to the option output at the under dash fuse box with whatever gauge is recommended by the manufacturer and an appropriate inline fuse. I've heard this connection can be "noisy", but I haven't noticed anything so far.

 

woahh, i was wayyy off on that one, haha.
ill find a new ground and if that works then great but if it doesnt then ill try what fcm suggested.
thanks for the responses guys