Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

92 Accord oil change

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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 08:36 AM
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Default 92 Accord oil change

Hi Honda folks!

I'm a Volvo guy, and could tell you a bunch about 1980s B230F engines - but a Honda engine from the 90s I know nothing about!

Can you tell me how much engine oil I'll need after draining the old oil, during an oil change? And hints about removing the old oil filter?

How often do I need to replace the oil drain plug? I have a replacement with a plastic washer, and wondered if I ought to use it (Volvos have a copper washer - the nylon washer makes me uneasy).

Also, could you guys direct me to a FAQ about Honda engine and transmission specs?

Thanks!

Ari
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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The washer is the main thing with the drain plug. Mine is metal, where'd you get a nylon one?

~4 quarts of oil in and out

Gotta either muscle the old one off (it should only be hand tight)

Accord FAQ at the top
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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Default Re: (TheMuffinMan)

Hmmm, I got the drain plug + nylon washer as a set at Advance.

Thanks!

Ari
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:07 AM
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Default Re: (SpazMan)

owner of a 92 here. In 350,000 miles I haven't needed a new plug. Pretty important that you pick up a metal "crush washer" from honda for .25, get yourself 4 qts. of oil and your preferred brand of filter. No real tricks to changing it, I usually need a wrench to crack the filter loose and using ramps will help keep the oil from running down the back side of the block when you pull the filter. There will be some puddling above where the block and oil pan match up right below the filter. Take a rag and reach up (watch the hot exhaust pipe) and mop up this oil so you don't mistake it for a leak later or mess up the driveway. I torque the drain plug to about 30 ft-lbs to "crush" the washer and make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off with the old filter. I would advise you to check the 10mm oil pan bolts while under there. Don't go crazy on them, just make sure they are snug each time you change the oil. Have a good look at the CV boots for rips while you are under there and check each ends of the block for oil indicating either a bad rear main seal (passenger side) or bad crank, balance shaft, oil pump, or cam seal. Also important on 92, new timing belt 60-90K. This is vital. Enjoy, after 16 years, I still love mine.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:40 AM
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Default Re: (conker)

My Volvo's engine is a non-interference design, but I know that the 16v Honda isn't... don't worry, I'll be vigilant.

Thanks about the advice on getting a metal washer, and checking the CV boots.

Do you need to disconnect the negative battery cable? On Volvos, it's a good idea, since the filter wrench can accidentally touch the wiring if you swing it too far...!

Ari
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:53 AM
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Default Re: (SpazMan)

I suppose it is a good idea to always disconnect the neg-cable, however, there is no danger of wrench to wire contact.
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