I am stuck trying to decide what slick size to run on my CRX for soloII. I have Revolution 13x7's currently mounted with 215/50-13 Advans (21.6" daimeter). I like this diameter, smaller but still lets me stay in 2nd gear. Should I go with a 20.0x9.5x13 Hoosier (will this be too short? 20.0" diameter) or a 22.0x9.0x13 (too tall? 22.3" diameter). It seems like all the 21.0 diameter slicks are only available in the harder compound which won't heat up fast enough for autox. The 22.0" slicks are getting close to my the stock diameter (22.7") of the car and I won't get the torque benefits. Anyone have experience with this?? Thanks....

 

Ha Ha Tyson,

Do you really think slicks are going to help you catch Chris? Your best bet is to take Joe's advise and talk to Tom from Mid Atlantic. Should have come out on the weekend there were some other small car drivers running slicks in C-MOD, Chris got beat.

 

You can only use slicks on Mod class. Every other class has to be DOT approved tires.

 

Prepared classes can also use slicks.

 

I've used 20x9.5x13 slicks on my CRX before. It's definitely some low gearing, but depending on the course it isn't too bad. Just don't plan on using 1st gear for anything but starting.

 

DB1-R81: Since I am already in MOD class I might as well run slicks!

I don't really want to be grabbing third....yeah I guess it depends on the course.

Anyone have input on the sidewall characteristics of slicks? I assume that I have to get a tire that is designed for a GT-4 car. The tires designed for the formula cars are likely too weak in the sidewall right?


[Modified by solorex, 7:40 PM 7/9/2002]

 

The new (used) set of slicks that I got were off of a GT4 car. They're mighty stiff. Since there's not much of a sidewall, mounting them without screwing up the rims can be an adventure.

As far as shifting, I personally like shifting from 2-3 or back down 3-2 a whole lot more than 2-1.

 

On our courses up here, no shifting is needed (with my current set-up, 21.5" diameter). I never have to use first gear (except off the line of course). Basically, i can leave the car in 2nd gear for the entire course. If I go to a 20.0 diameter slick, I am worried that I will have to shift and this might cost me time. It wouldn't be good having to shift into 3rd for a second or two, then having to shift back to second. You know what I mean?


[Modified by solorex, 10:01 PM 7/9/2002]

 

On my EP crx (1985 si) , I'm running 13x7 revolutions, with 20x9.5x13" Goodyears. If I had to do it again, I'd probably go 20x8x13". First off, the 9.5"s rubbed. Front and rear. I have an 8 mm spacer in the rear, and 13mm up front. No rubbing now. I also had to change to longer wheel studs to accomodate the Rev's + spacers. Sounds easy, until you realize you ahve to press apart the front hub to change the studs. Might as well change the bearings while you're in there .

As to gearing, I like it. However, at the last event I was at, in the fastest section, I was somewhere like 7600rpm in second gear. Losing power by the second . Definitely wasn't worth the shift to third, so I just let it climb. Oh, and I managed to get my first real regional win in EP on Sunday too, and was in the FTD hunt for a while.

Take this all while realizing that I'm putting less than 100hp to the wheels of my first gen. If you're putting a ton of power down, definitely move the diameter of the slick upwards.

~Rick Shank

 

so is there any issue with sidewall strength of a slick and car weight? 'cause the narrower slicks are designed for formula cars...ie 1000-1200lbs and my CRX is around 2200lbs. Any issues with the tire rolling over?