My ARP headstuds don't have allen keys. Do none of the ARP B18C1 headstuds have allen key holes? Other headstuds that I've seen have them.

 

mine have allen holes on them...that's strange that yours dont, what do they have??

 

They don't have anything. I will post pictures in a minute.

 

 

How long ago did you buy them and were they used?

 

I bought them a couple of months ago from someone here on H-T. Yes, they were used.

 

They look modified and shaved. With things like these you should have went brand new. I think of used head studs as I do with gaskets. Never reuse old stuff unless you are 100% sure it will work. That's me though.

 

looks like they were cut and sanded

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djtsmith007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like they were cut and sanded </TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? Why would anyone do that?

 

correct me if i'm wrong but looks like you're missing 1 stud, washers and nuts. and i dont think they for gsr are they? mine looks different from yours. mine has threading on both ends. are you sure you have the right ones for your motor.

 

I have all 10 studs, washers and nuts. I just didn't have everything in the picture. Mine do have threading on both ends. Do yours have the allen key, and are they for a GSR? Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TB123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Really? Why would anyone do that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who knows....many different bed ideas could have led to that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hmongyaj87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if i'm wrong but looks like you're missing 1 stud, washers and nuts. and i dont think they for gsr are they? mine looks different from yours. mine has threading on both ends. are you sure you have the right ones for your motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats not the problem../.if there is no allen screw hole...how would you get them in? Def not with a vice grip.

I would say try and contact the guy who sold them to ya, never know might help ya out. Worth a shot

 

i would post up pics of mine but damn camera is broken. but yeah mine does have the allen holes. looks different form yours. the threading is at the both end of the stud not like yours where one is on partial of the stud and the other at the end. i say you probably got the wrong studs for your application. and yes mines are for gsr.

 

Thanks for everyones help. I just sent an email to the guy that I bought them from. Hopefully he helps me out.

 

well when i bought a set for a d16z6 back in the day the arps didnt have allens in the top either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UmbraDc2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think of used head studs as I do with gaskets. Never reuse old stuff unless you are 100% sure it will work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
/Signed...I have never reused head studs/bolts on any build I cared about.
They do stretch...
The ones pictured don't look cut to me. They appear to have been bottomed out in the block pretty hard. Looks like aluminum stuck on them. JMHO

I hope that guy helps you out but you should start saving anyways for a new set.

 

He bought he headstuds from me, sold for $85shipped and they had very limited miles on them. I have sold maybe 5 sets of used headstuds before and nobody ever complained about them being "used". Maybe if the last owner had stretched them, but I take very good care of my parts.

Because they are the ones ARP sold before switching over to Allen type. Call ARP tech line 1-800-826-3045 and they will confirm it.

I dont know why anybody would cut and sand down headstuds but I did get a good laugh out of that.
As I told Taylor, you can either finger tighten the headstuds into the block or you can use the two nut method. Which is using two of the 12point nuts on one stud, the two nuts need to be tighten onto each other. That way they hold and compress the threads so you can preload them if you wish to.

They are indeed the correct headstuds, right out of my personal LS/Vtec motor.

There are not too many people who knows that ARP at one point sold them without the allens in the tops. AEBS headstuds used to be like this as well and they switched over when ARP decided to.

Most of the headstuds I have sold and seen from customer motor's I've built looks exactly like that so its normal IMHO. As I told Taylor this morning, if he really thinks I shaved and cut the studs all he needs to do is call ARP tech line 800-826-3045 and ask them. Same with anybody else in this thread thinking that I sold faulty studs. My rep is extremely valuable to me so I wouldnt risk it at all. Thanks

 

I never said anything was WRONG with it, I was just saying from looking at pictures that they look different from all the head stud kits I've seen from ARP. That's why I said LOOK rather than thinking I'm correct and saying THEY ARE. Now I've never seen this old style but if that's what it really is maybe explain how to install these ones.

 

The old ARP headstuds didn't have allen keys in the tops.

I don't know if you guys are psychic or what but there is no way in hell you can tell if those are the right/wrong headstuds for those pics.

To me they look fine but Taylor those pics suck.

 

they look fine, use the double nut method, putting the bolt with the no threads at the end into the block......

reusing studs a couple of times is usually fine unlike reusing oem head bolts

 

well i learned something new today.

good info for those who provided the facts

 

Do LS/Vtec and GSRs use the same ARP headstuds? How about just regular LS and GSR? Do LS blocks and GSR blocks have the same threads and hole depths for headstuds (Has anyone taken a GSR headstud and threaded it into an LS block or vice-versa)? I am still trying to confirm that these are going to work because when I thread them finger tight into my GSR block, they still wobble a little bit back and forth. It just doesn't seem right to me, but this is the first time that I have done this so I may be wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djtsmith007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats not the problem../.if there is no allen screw hole...how would you get them in? Def not with a vice grip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have two install options:
1) Double nut and torque.
2) Use a stud installation tool.
Picture from Sears.

 

Kick me if I'm wrong but after talking to ARP rep I was told that the studs are not to have preloaded torque on them. He instructed me to get the studs finger tight then use the nut tightening to achieve the desired toque. If that is correct the allen key holes aren't necessary.

My studs had the allen key hole but I ended up just threading them in by hand.

Having said that I would be wary of reusing used head bolts/studs. Even ARP ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jabinya &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kick me if I'm wrong but after talking to ARP rep I was told that the studs are not to have preloaded torque on them. He instructed me to get the studs finger tight then use the nut tightening to achieve the desired toque. If that is correct the allen key holes aren't necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, ARP recommends to just put them in finger tight. A lot of people tighten them down to like 5-10 foot pounds thought.