So the other day i was out about to beat on my car, i drop to 2nd and im sitting at about 5000rpm about to get on it (sitting mid throttle), i go to put it at WOT and immediately the car dies and makes a horrible sound (sounded like metal clanking against metal starting fast and slowed down really quick as the engine died). so i immediately pull over shitting my pants thinking "ah [freak] the timing belt just snapped and bent every valve at 5000rpm" and pop the hood, everything checks out. cam gears are in line, timing belt still there. so i try starting it, it jsut cranks and cranks but wouldn't startup. i try push starting it with no luck. so my friends and i push it 1.5 miles back to my house. Last night i take the dizzy cap off and find the rotor screw backed itself out and was floating around, i also found the cap and rotor were coated with carbon (needed changed). so i run out to autozone and get a new cap and rotor, put them on, put the dizzy back on and try to turn it over, no luck, i look and notice now the intake cam gear is off about 90 degrees so i like "omfg not again" (for those of you that dont know, this past winter i changed my clutch, had the dizzy off, put it in 180 off or something and nobody knows forsure but we think the dizzy being 180 off jammed the intake cam, and made it slip timing and it bent 2 valves, got the valves fixed and everything is fine, now this happens!), but i made damn sure that the dizzy wasnt 180 off this time so how could it have done this?

One theory i think could be that the dizzy screw backed out and flung around in there making the horrible sound, and mabe it lodged itself in the dizzy housing and jammed the dizzy shaft, jamming the gear and making it slip again. but that doesnt make sense because i checked right afterwards and the cam gear was fine, only after i took the dizzy off again to change the cap and rotor did it slip.

Another is that when i mashed it WOT maybe the engine torqued hard (always used to jerk the car hard when i did that) and made some slack in the timing belt for a second and let the cam gear slip. who knows.


Today i decided to start looking for things wrong.

Sweet the intake cam is off time again...



Pulled the plugs and wow look what i found in #4!




sweet wonder how that happened...


Took valve cover off and made sure there were still 4 valves there, looks like there are:





Started probing around in #4 with a magnetic probe thing and pulled this out...






Looks like a chunk of a valve to me.


Noticed this when i was almost done:





SO. does anybody have any ideas? the car is parked and not paying to get it fixed for a while (absolutely no funds right now), who knows i might end up trying to work on it myself i dont know yet. but lets hear what you guys think. (oh if anyone didnt know its an ls/vtec motor fyi if that makes any difference).

 

check your valve clerance...i think your valves came in contact with your pistons, and do a compression test that should let you know if your valves are [freak]ed..my stituation was a little different but kinda the same...i had a b20vtec i think one of the valves was already bent to begin with but my stupid *** didn't change it ( my first b-series) got it running, ran good pulled hard...then one day, went to go beat on it. 1st gear 8k, got into 2nd gear wheels were still slipping until 6500, once the wheel caught tractoin, the car shuts off..couldn't figure it out...i took the head off and what do u know, looks exactly like yours. spark plug identical, valve seat was destroy, cylinder walls was scratched up...yup yup...good luck.

 

Are you sure you're using the right timing belt for your engine? When you had it off last, did you make sure to properly adjust the tensioner? There's also no possible way to install a distributor 180* off, there are grooves that are off centered so that doesn't happen. What did you replace when this happened before, I mean EVERYTHING that you replaced? Just the bent valves, all the valves, the timing belt, the camshaft, the cam gears? Is the head shaved? Have you taken the head off yet? Have you removed the camshafts yet?

 

ok, no matter what you do to the dizzy, if its locked up from the "screw" in there or if its 180 off, it physically cant cause the entire cam to slip timing. esoecially not 90 or 180. the dizzy would just spin and the spark would be off, or break the plastic arount the locked up rotor. there is a lot of torque it takes to drive a cam that is pushing valves, if the "same" torque it took to push a dizzy that was 180 off as being on time, because the dizzy's drive torque doesnt change when its on or off time. any hoo my point it, the only things i could see that could cause this is improper belt tnsion, this could be from the tensioner was no longer locked down in place after being set when last belt put on, or the water pump's bearings went out, and if you take the belt COMPLETELY off the water pump, ad grab the water pumps drive gear with your hand and wobble it around in every direction, even while turning or not, you may notice sports or its entirety that the shaft wobbles, and this would cause slack, or "intermittent" slack in the belt. and this slack would affect the intake side cam first, as the exhaust cam is on the loaded side of the timing belt while running.