I am trying to install a set of new brake pads, but I can't fit them in properly, because the small side pistons (see pics) are too far out. I tried using a C clamp, still, it is not moving at all. Please helpp!!!

Since I already took out the caliper to take good pictures, I plan to let the brake fluid drip overnight. Is this a proper way of "flushing" the system? When I add in new fluids, do I have to bleed all the brakes? Also can you guys recommend a brand and type? thanks!!

[img=http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/8638/img4740jv5.th.jpg]

[img=http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1969/img4741ng5.th.jpg] [IMG][/IMG]

 

If what you are pointing to is what is really stuck, I don't think the c-clamp method is what you need to be doing. I can't really tell with the small pic though. The c-clamp method is for the acutal piston itself, within the caliper.

 

good pt.... any ideas besides poiting out what i know already??

 

Sometimes those slider pins will get seized up. If you can't pull it out (then clean it really well, with sandpaper too, then regrease), time for a new caliper.

 

If you already knew that, you wouldnt have been trying the get the slider pins back in with a c-clamp.

 

the pic is pointing to the caliper slides...not the piston.

Put a pair of vice grips on the part with the bolt head. Twist back and forth as you pull.....get them out of the caliper. Take a drill with a wire wheel and clean off all the rust inside. Then regrease them WITH BRAKE CALIPER GREASE.

You shouldn't need a C clamp for those. They should slide in and out with little to no resistance with your fingers. Otherwise the pads are always engaged on the rotor.

 

try a lil heat also. get a oxy/acetylene torch and heat up the caliper where the slides go thru while the caliper is in a vice. then twist the slide back and forth with a pair of vice grips. after you get it out , wire wheel the slide and us a drill to get all the gunk out from inside the caliper hole. then grease the pins and reinstall!

or you could just save alot of swearing and aggrevation and buy new calipers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prettylew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or you could just save alot of swearing and aggrevation and buy new calipers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true. But seeing as new calipers cost around $100-150ish, the cost to work it off will cause swearing as well.

Here's a life lesson: Swearing is imminent.

 

also yes you will have to bleed all the brakes now that the caliper is off. start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. so it would be, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

and when bleeding the brakes, tell whoever is pushing on the pedal, dont try to push the pedal through the freakin floor just some firm pressure is all that is needed. jamming on the pedal too hard or pumping them too fast could create more lil bubbles. and it will just take longer to get all the air out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is true. But seeing as new calipers cost around $100-150ish, the cost to work it off will cause swearing as well.

Here's a life lesson: Swearing is imminent. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That can't be right. New calipers from Autozone or whatever shouldn't be more than $50 each or so.

 

Yeah I went to Autozone for advice, and to check on a quote on a new caliper- it's 50 bucks, but it doesn't have the slide bushings, but does come with boots. Those so-called technicians didn't do anything to help. They hammered it with a rubber mallet and the busings ripped it apart . They suggested I do some serious hammering with some WD-40 at home, which I did but with no WD-40 cuz Ii heard it's not good for it...

 

my buddy's rear sliding pins did the same thing, we tried everything to get the sliding pin out. In the end he just bought a new caliper.

 

If a new, decent quality caliper is only 50 bucks, you might as well get it seeing as you;ve put so much stress on the existing caliper.

 

whats the importance of the slider bushing boots???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wu4607 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the importance of the slider bushing boots???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Keep dirt and moisture out I would assume

 

you wont get that pin out without heating the caliper till its cherry red, that wd40 and a hammer idea is rediculous. i literally laughed when i read thats what the guy told u to do.

 

Yeah, you NEED the boots. If crap or moisture gets in there, this same seizing thing will happen again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prettylew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wont get that pin out without heating the caliper till its cherry red, that wd40 and a hammer idea is rediculous. i literally laughed when i read thats what the guy told u to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously. Those are instructions on how to destroy a caliper with a hammer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC-DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If a new, decent quality caliper is only 50 bucks, you might as well get it seeing as you;ve put so much stress on the existing caliper.</TD></TR></TABLE>