HOW TO:VTEC brake conversion
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeyondTheCompetition »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does Variable Timing have to do with brakes? Might be a reason you cannot find a "HOW TO" on the matter......</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Vtec Brakes are bigger than the Si, or S model Preludes
The Vtec Brakes are bigger than the Si, or S model Preludes
It's pretty much unbolt the old stuff, and bolt on the new stuff, but if anybody is interested I will be doing this next month, so I can document it if there is interest.
What are you wanting to know?
Parts needed or steps to do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giant_Bean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's pretty much unbolt the old stuff, and bolt on the new stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^How to do it.
Parts need: VTEC 11.1" Rotors, VTEC Calipers & Brackets, VTEC Pads.
Very simple, very easy, very quick.
Parts needed or steps to do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giant_Bean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's pretty much unbolt the old stuff, and bolt on the new stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^How to do it.
Parts need: VTEC 11.1" Rotors, VTEC Calipers & Brackets, VTEC Pads.
Very simple, very easy, very quick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeyondTheCompetition »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does Variable Timing have to do with brakes? Might be a reason you cannot find a "HOW TO" on the matter......</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didn't know about the dual-lobe cams in the brake calipers!?
Yeah, the brakes are different between the different models, should be an 'Official Prelude brake swap' thread in the FAQs.
You didn't know about the dual-lobe cams in the brake calipers!?
Yeah, the brakes are different between the different models, should be an 'Official Prelude brake swap' thread in the FAQs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeyondTheCompetition »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does Variable Timing have to do with brakes? Might be a reason you cannot find a "HOW TO" on the matter......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Trending Topics
You probably didn't look too hard on PreludePower then if you couldn't find it lol.
On 4th generation S, or SI models, purchase 5th generation loaded calipers and 4th gen VTEC rotors. Just make sure to check the rotor specs because I see them mixed up all the time.
SI Rotors=10.something "
VTEC Rotors=11.something"
Obviously, you wan't the larger rotors (11") and need the larger calipers to compensate for them. I've heard mixed stories of how effective this upgrade is, but, nonetheless I'm going to do it as well.
Hope this helps.
Harry
On 4th generation S, or SI models, purchase 5th generation loaded calipers and 4th gen VTEC rotors. Just make sure to check the rotor specs because I see them mixed up all the time.
SI Rotors=10.something "
VTEC Rotors=11.something"
Obviously, you wan't the larger rotors (11") and need the larger calipers to compensate for them. I've heard mixed stories of how effective this upgrade is, but, nonetheless I'm going to do it as well.
Hope this helps.
Harry
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Vtec Brakes are bigger than the Si, or S model Preludes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow....I got TOLD.
Knew the Civic's were different, but thought all Prelude's came with VTEC motors...lol. <--NOOB all over again
The Vtec Brakes are bigger than the Si, or S model Preludes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow....I got TOLD.
Knew the Civic's were different, but thought all Prelude's came with VTEC motors...lol. <--NOOB all over again
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeyondTheCompetition »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wow....I got TOLD.
Knew the Civic's were different, but thought all Prelude's came with VTEC motors...lol. <--NOOB all over again
</TD></TR></TABLE>
noob since the start 26 posts :D lmao!!! jk jk yea diff break sizes, some ludes even had accord motors, anyways yup as for installing is 2bolts i think off the spindle then 2 for the caliper i think dont quote me should take 15mins a side at most
Wow....I got TOLD.
Knew the Civic's were different, but thought all Prelude's came with VTEC motors...lol. <--NOOB all over again
</TD></TR></TABLE>noob since the start 26 posts :D lmao!!! jk jk yea diff break sizes, some ludes even had accord motors, anyways yup as for installing is 2bolts i think off the spindle then 2 for the caliper i think dont quote me should take 15mins a side at most
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giant_Bean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's pretty much unbolt the old stuff, and bolt on the new stuff, but if anybody is interested I will be doing this next month, so I can document it if there is interest.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be great for future reference.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLBZ521 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you wanting to know?
Parts needed or steps to do?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you take off the rotors without an impact? Don't you need to bleed the brakes because of the new calipers? Also, is a little bit of surface rust on the side of the piston a bad thing?
That would be great for future reference.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLBZ521 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you wanting to know?
Parts needed or steps to do?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you take off the rotors without an impact? Don't you need to bleed the brakes because of the new calipers? Also, is a little bit of surface rust on the side of the piston a bad thing?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dumkopf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Don't you need to bleed the brakes because of the new calipers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup
yup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlang29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yup</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need to find out how to do that as well as taking off the rotors.
yup</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need to find out how to do that as well as taking off the rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23 Lude SI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On 4th generation S, or SI models, purchase 5th generation loaded calipers and 4th gen VTEC rotors. Just make sure to check the rotor specs because I see them mixed up all the time.
SI Rotors=10.something "
VTEC Rotors=11.something"
Obviously, you wan't the larger rotors (11") and need the larger calipers to compensate for them. I've heard mixed stories of how effective this upgrade is, but, nonetheless I'm going to do it as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
5thGen Rotors are a different Width than the 4thGen VTEC Rotors, so that to says to me that the Calipers and/or Brackets have to be somewhat different also. Because they all use the same Pads.
S & Si Rotors are 10.2"
VTEC Rotors are 11.1"
Actually, the 4thGen S & Si Models have the same sized Piston in the Caliper as the VTEC Model, just the Caliper Body is a different size and using a different sized Pad. So I think with the VTEC Bracket, the S & Si Caliper *could* be used on the VTEC Rotor.. But I dunno if the bracket is a different size.... Hawkze had both, he might could say something on that..
For the price, this is effective enough to justify upgrading to the VTEC Setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeyondTheCompetition »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow....I got TOLD. Knew the Civic's were different, but thought all Prelude's came with VTEC motors...lol. <--NOOB all over again</TD></TR></TABLE>
USDM 5thGen Prelude's all came with a VTEC Engine. Other markets had other engine options.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dumkopf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you take off the rotors without an impact? Don't you need to bleed the brakes because of the new calipers? Also, is a little bit of surface rust on the side of the piston a bad thing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you need an Impact gun to remove the Rotors?
The Rotors are held on by Small Retaining Screws. And with my OEM Brake Upgrade, using '06 RSX Type-S 11.8" Rotors, I don't even use those screws. The Wheel is holding the Rotor on.
Yes, you'll have to bleed the brake system since you're putting a Caliper that's full of air onto the system and also the lines might drain some fluid out during the process.
Rust on the Side? As in, on the side of the body? Not on the lip?
I wouldn't say that's a good thing myself..
This is AT LEAST the 5th time I've typed the same info regarding the same question in two weeks. Bah!
SI Rotors=10.something "
VTEC Rotors=11.something"
Obviously, you wan't the larger rotors (11") and need the larger calipers to compensate for them. I've heard mixed stories of how effective this upgrade is, but, nonetheless I'm going to do it as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
5thGen Rotors are a different Width than the 4thGen VTEC Rotors, so that to says to me that the Calipers and/or Brackets have to be somewhat different also. Because they all use the same Pads.
S & Si Rotors are 10.2"
VTEC Rotors are 11.1"
Actually, the 4thGen S & Si Models have the same sized Piston in the Caliper as the VTEC Model, just the Caliper Body is a different size and using a different sized Pad. So I think with the VTEC Bracket, the S & Si Caliper *could* be used on the VTEC Rotor.. But I dunno if the bracket is a different size.... Hawkze had both, he might could say something on that..
For the price, this is effective enough to justify upgrading to the VTEC Setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeyondTheCompetition »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow....I got TOLD. Knew the Civic's were different, but thought all Prelude's came with VTEC motors...lol. <--NOOB all over again</TD></TR></TABLE>
USDM 5thGen Prelude's all came with a VTEC Engine. Other markets had other engine options.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dumkopf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you take off the rotors without an impact? Don't you need to bleed the brakes because of the new calipers? Also, is a little bit of surface rust on the side of the piston a bad thing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you need an Impact gun to remove the Rotors?
The Rotors are held on by Small Retaining Screws. And with my OEM Brake Upgrade, using '06 RSX Type-S 11.8" Rotors, I don't even use those screws. The Wheel is holding the Rotor on.
Yes, you'll have to bleed the brake system since you're putting a Caliper that's full of air onto the system and also the lines might drain some fluid out during the process.
Rust on the Side? As in, on the side of the body? Not on the lip?
I wouldn't say that's a good thing myself..
This is AT LEAST the 5th time I've typed the same info regarding the same question in two weeks. Bah!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLBZ521 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5thGen Rotors are a different Width than the 4thGen VTEC Rotors, so that to says to me that the Calipers and/or Brackets have to be somewhat different also. Because they all use the same Pads.
S & Si Rotors are 10.2"
VTEC Rotors are 11.1"
Actually, the 4thGen S & Si Models have the same sized Piston in the Caliper as the VTEC Model, just the Caliper Body is a different size and using a different sized Pad. So I think with the VTEC Bracket, the S & Si Caliper *could* be used on the VTEC Rotor.. But I dunno if the bracket is a different size.... Hawkze had both, he might could say something on that..
For the price, this is effective enough to justify upgrading to the VTEC Setup.
USDM 5thGen Prelude's all came with a VTEC Engine. Other markets had other engine options.
Why would you need an Impact gun to remove the Rotors?
The Rotors are held on by Small Retaining Screws. And with my OEM Brake Upgrade, using '06 RSX Type-S 11.8" Rotors, I don't even use those screws. The Wheel is holding the Rotor on.
Yes, you'll have to bleed the brake system since you're putting a Caliper that's full of air onto the system and also the lines might drain some fluid out during the process.
Rust on the Side? As in, on the side of the body? Not on the lip?
I wouldn't say that's a good thing myself..
This is AT LEAST the 5th time I've typed the same info regarding the same question in two weeks. Bah!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you don't even really need the retaining screws?
That kind of worries me. I meant to say the rust is on the inside of the piston. That
me too.
5thGen Rotors are a different Width than the 4thGen VTEC Rotors, so that to says to me that the Calipers and/or Brackets have to be somewhat different also. Because they all use the same Pads.
S & Si Rotors are 10.2"
VTEC Rotors are 11.1"
Actually, the 4thGen S & Si Models have the same sized Piston in the Caliper as the VTEC Model, just the Caliper Body is a different size and using a different sized Pad. So I think with the VTEC Bracket, the S & Si Caliper *could* be used on the VTEC Rotor.. But I dunno if the bracket is a different size.... Hawkze had both, he might could say something on that..
For the price, this is effective enough to justify upgrading to the VTEC Setup.
USDM 5thGen Prelude's all came with a VTEC Engine. Other markets had other engine options.
Why would you need an Impact gun to remove the Rotors?
The Rotors are held on by Small Retaining Screws. And with my OEM Brake Upgrade, using '06 RSX Type-S 11.8" Rotors, I don't even use those screws. The Wheel is holding the Rotor on.
Yes, you'll have to bleed the brake system since you're putting a Caliper that's full of air onto the system and also the lines might drain some fluid out during the process.
Rust on the Side? As in, on the side of the body? Not on the lip?
I wouldn't say that's a good thing myself..
This is AT LEAST the 5th time I've typed the same info regarding the same question in two weeks. Bah!
</TD></TR></TABLE>So you don't even really need the retaining screws?
That kind of worries me. I meant to say the rust is on the inside of the piston. That
me too.
Nah, they're just there for "Retaining." The wheel is what keeps the Rotor there not to mention it's also inside the Caliper.. Those little screws aren't strong enough to do anything else.
Inside the Piston, eh, probably going to happen.. Just get a wire brush and clean the rust off.. I'd only imagine it would be a little surface rust, nothing crazy like it's eating through.
Inside the Piston, eh, probably going to happen.. Just get a wire brush and clean the rust off.. I'd only imagine it would be a little surface rust, nothing crazy like it's eating through.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autoluder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont forget to bleed your brakes...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R..no more »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Caliper brackets are slightly diffrent. 4th gen brackets are stamped 23t and 5th gen 25t. This number corresponds to the thickness of the rotor in mm....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dumkopf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do i remove the screws holding the rotors on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Retainer Screws?
Just use a screw driver? If they're stuck, I guess you could get a Rubber Mallet and hit the rotor a few times, maybe it'll help.. I recommend using a big screw driver that actually fits the size of the screw also, otherwise it's probably gonna be hard if they haven't been removed in awhile... Mine were kinda hard also, but got 'em off.
The Mallet will also help remove the rotor after you get the retainer screws off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R..no more »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Caliper brackets are slightly diffrent. 4th gen brackets are stamped 23t and 5th gen 25t. This number corresponds to the thickness of the rotor in mm....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dumkopf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do i remove the screws holding the rotors on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Retainer Screws?
Just use a screw driver? If they're stuck, I guess you could get a Rubber Mallet and hit the rotor a few times, maybe it'll help.. I recommend using a big screw driver that actually fits the size of the screw also, otherwise it's probably gonna be hard if they haven't been removed in awhile... Mine were kinda hard also, but got 'em off.
The Mallet will also help remove the rotor after you get the retainer screws off.
Quote: dumkoph
how do i remove the screws holding the rotors on?
You have to use an impact screwdriver. You can get one at AutoZone for $9.99 and it comes with 2 slotted + 2 phillips driver bits in a black blow-molded case. You put in the driver bit and you hit it with a hammer to loosen the screws. After removing the screws, if the rotor is "rusted" onto the hub, hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or hammer to get it loose. If that does not work - then you will have to screw in 8mm bolts into the other two holes in the rotor. Use a socket or wrench to turn in the bolts 2 turns then go to the other bolt. Keep alternating until the rotor comes off.
Modified by TheJGB3 at 11:04 PM 3/26/2008
how do i remove the screws holding the rotors on?
You have to use an impact screwdriver. You can get one at AutoZone for $9.99 and it comes with 2 slotted + 2 phillips driver bits in a black blow-molded case. You put in the driver bit and you hit it with a hammer to loosen the screws. After removing the screws, if the rotor is "rusted" onto the hub, hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or hammer to get it loose. If that does not work - then you will have to screw in 8mm bolts into the other two holes in the rotor. Use a socket or wrench to turn in the bolts 2 turns then go to the other bolt. Keep alternating until the rotor comes off.
Modified by TheJGB3 at 11:04 PM 3/26/2008
My brakes are staying spongy! I bled the 2 fronts, still spongy. I went to bleed the rears. The 3rd one bled just fine. The last one, bubbles keep coming. The fluid coming out is all new, clean fluid. Help anyone?
Are the brembo 4th gen vtec rotors thicker than OEM? SO from what i understand, to do a VTEC brake swap i can use 4th gen vtec calipers or any 5th gen calipers? I dont think the thickness would make a difference since the calipers adjust, correct?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheJGB3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote: dumkoph
how do i remove the screws holding the rotors on?
You have to use an impact screwdriver. You can get one at AutoZone for $9.99 and it comes with 2 slotted + 2 phillips driver bits in a black blow-molded case. You put in the driver bit and you hit it with a hammer to loosen the screws. After removing the screws, if the rotor is "rusted" onto the hub, hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or hammer to get it loose. If that does not work - then you will have to screw in 8mm bolts into the other two holes in the rotor. Use a socket or wrench to turn in the bolts 2 turns then go to the other bolt. Keep alternating until the rotor comes off.
Modified by TheJGB3 at 11:04 PM 3/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
And this man is correct. This is exactly what i had to do
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheJGB3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote: dumkoph
how do i remove the screws holding the rotors on?
You have to use an impact screwdriver. You can get one at AutoZone for $9.99 and it comes with 2 slotted + 2 phillips driver bits in a black blow-molded case. You put in the driver bit and you hit it with a hammer to loosen the screws. After removing the screws, if the rotor is "rusted" onto the hub, hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or hammer to get it loose. If that does not work - then you will have to screw in 8mm bolts into the other two holes in the rotor. Use a socket or wrench to turn in the bolts 2 turns then go to the other bolt. Keep alternating until the rotor comes off.
Modified by TheJGB3 at 11:04 PM 3/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
And this man is correct. This is exactly what i had to do
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnD1079 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the brembo 4th gen vtec rotors thicker than OEM? SO from what i understand, to do a VTEC brake swap i can use 4th gen vtec calipers or any 5th gen calipers? I dont think the thickness would make a difference since the calipers adjust, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup either or.
Now, any help for me?
Yup either or.
Now, any help for me?






