Hi I am new here, always wanted a honda and now got one (used to own subarus ) My friends post here alot and said I should try posting...and yes Ive used the search feature quite frequently

Here is the situation. I had foot surgery and cannot drive nor get around easy. I am sort of mobile as long as I can prop myself up on something while working so please try to bear with me

I picked up a 95 prelude S 5spd and had a friend drive it home for me (1 hr drive away). Parked it in my driveway where it sits. Had my friends start it a few times so the battery would not die on me. One day I decided to try to find out why my radio wasnt working and found a blown fuse. Replaced fuse radio worked a few minutes and fuse blew again. Car had some crappy sub/amp with terrible power wire. I disconnected the power wire from the battery and pulled it out through the firewall (drivers side, wire was run under carpet around fuse box down the trim). Next day I go out and use my crutch to press clutch and now the car wont start: cranks, no fuel (pump not turning on), believe no spark (pulled a plug and friend looked) and CEL stays on all the time. I tested all fuses with a test light, all seem ok. I tested the connector for the fuel pump = no power, however the fuel sensor is working and gas gauge reads accurately (little under 1/2). After searching I think it might be either the main relay or the ECU. My question is this:

If the main relay is totally shot, would it power the ECU? Like I said CEL stays on and jumping service connector indicates no codes (solid CEL). Only thing I noticed is SRS constantly blinks with service connector jumped. Also I get no clicks whatsoever from the relay. Only click I hear is when trying to crank the car (clutch not pressed) so key to the start position. All accessories work - not like that matters lol.

Im going to try some more tests to the main relay harness as soon as I get a battery for my multimeter. Any insight or suggestions appreciated. Hopefully in a few weeks I can walk again and be able to do things easier - right now its just a PITA. I feel for any of you that had to use crutches. Only good thing is I wont be able to drive for at least another month or two. I just want to get this car running for now, maybe next year think about a h22. Thanks again in advance.

 

It sounds like the main relay could be the culprit, and I don't think it would affect the ECU. It's a simple and cheap fix to pull and resolder the contacts on the main relay - so maybe start there and see what happens.

 

Going to do that now. Was under there before but Im having a difficult time getting the relay out lol.

 

Bump for my man caus i found a half dollar under his back seat

 

Finally had the chance to get the relay out. What do you guys think:

 

Have you reflowed any of those contacts with the soldering iron yet? Just reheat them to get them to reflow, and maybe add a little solder.

If not, do it - the ones around the edge especially and the ones with the old brown flux on them. If you already did it, clean up some of that flux. I don't see any contacts that are pulled up from the board and look particularly bad though.

 

if im not mistaken, the solid CEL also has a code.

 

Havent tried to resolder, Im not good with that stuff actually lol. I read that if main relay is bad it could cause the CEL to stay illuminated and throw no codes I also read that a bad ECU is code 0 (solid cel when checking). But still I was getting no clicks whatsoever so I was guessing a bad relay.

 

mine had a cracked solder point that was realllly hard to see. definitly wouldnt show up in a picture, so youll have to check cloesly for your self.

the crack i had just looked like a really fine black ring around one solder point. get out a magnifying glass and look. if you see none, just heat them all and throw it back in.

 

I was going to pick up a relay from majestic honda (honestly I dont trust my soldering skills). I just think the problem is either the relay or ECU. Unless I somehow pulled a ground off something in the engine bay but they look pretty intact. Hopefully I will be able to do more once I start walking again.

 

I pulled to ECU and took a look at it. No blow capacitors (that I could see anyway) and no scorch marks. I am at a loss. Did check the wires to the relay, they all seem to be getting good voltage.

 

trust your soldering skills!
get a cheap radio shack iron and some small spool of solder. tin the tip of the iron (melt some solder on the tip), and then melt/reflow the solder points on the relay!

also double check that you didn't knock something loose when you removed the amp power line.

 

Will do hey whats the worse that can happen, I buy a new relay. I have an iron an solder so tonight I might spend some time in the garage (its raining boo) and try it out. I was thinking the same thing about knocking something loose. I did check the ground to the tranny it looks oxidized but the power wire was no where near that ground. I also checked the ground to the tstat - looks ok. Only ground wire I noticed not connected was one that its connected to the steering column. Its labeled "ground" like radio harness wire and looks to have been cut (not pulled).

Hopefully doctor clears me next week to start walking so it will be alot easier for me to work on this


Modified by tugboat at 5:39 PM 3/19/2008

 

1 of these 2 steps should fix your problem.

1. Already noted, but I'll note it again...check that main relay for bad solder...cracks, splitting, etc. Look very close to the posts coming up from the board and see if the solder needs to be re-flowed.

2. Check the thermostat housing ground, remove/sand/reinstall.

I had the same exact problems yesterday that you're having now. Main relay clicked once when key was turned on, CEL stayed on, fuel pump never turns on, no spark at all...pulled the thermo housing ground, cleaned it up, and reinstalled...car runs great now. This ground is the engine harness's ground...meaning it acts as a ground for many different components, possibly even the ecu and main relay.

After you've taken these steps, post an update!

EDIT: Just seen your last post...connect that ground! These cars rely on every single ground being used. On all my cars I have ground wire kits installed along with the OEM grounds, to further help because these OEM grounds blow after x amount of years of abuse and weather. I'm about 99.9% sure your issue is because of a bad or disconnected ground wire.

 

Dually noted. Once the weather clears I'll clean that ground. I'll also reground that wire to somewhere else (one connected to steering column). I'll keep you posted on progress. Again Im starting to think I pulled a ground or wire out when I was pulling the amp wire through the firewall.

 

Ok time for an update. Installed new relay - still nothing. I was getting pissed and decided to recheck fuses. As I was pulling a fuse out I heard the pump start priming - sweet! I went to start car (using my crutch on the clutch lol) and everything went dead and heard a loud click..rechecked fuses - non blown but the door chime still was working but faintly. Jiggled the negative battery cable on the battery and chime got louder. I turned the key on, engine light went off, fuel primed, and she started. Ran for about 15 minutes and died again. Turn key and it was doing the same thing as before (check engine light no prime). I thought back to what happened before the car wouldnt start and I checked the fuse box. I jiggled the harness that connects to the bottom of the fuse box and I heard the relay click and fuel pump prime...BINGO! So now I gotta wait for more light and take apart that harness and clean those terminals. I probably pulled a pin loose or something when I was removing the power wire from the amp. Thanks for all the help guys!

Ill post pics when I can, she needs work but I plan to see it through.