Why you should change the brake fluid completely in a crx
Very well understood and agreed
this was for the n00bs
and a good laugh
this is from a new acquisition, so I wanted to share what came out of a car that needed love
this was for the n00bs
and a good laugh
this is from a new acquisition, so I wanted to share what came out of a car that needed love
If you have any question, (it sounds like you do), flush it! Our classic cars are to old to think you can get away with it,your pistons will be rusting, and more(as if rusting pistons wasn't bad enough)
A couple cans of fluid is cheaper, and easier to replace, than a caliper or a master cylinder.
takes you about an hour
get 2 liters of fluid to be sure you dont run out of clean fluid
(never use opened cans of fluid, only new)
also have some break cleaner, the screen in the reservoir will be nasty. wash it clean then let it dry while you do the flush
also, 2 things about the drain line
1) run the line up then down into the catcher
you want this because it allows any air bubbles to accumulate in the hump,
rather than run back up into the bleed screw
2) never let the end of the hose above the drained fluid, if you do it will empty
and you can have lots of air run back into the caliper.
it helps alot to have a friend work the pedal then you can open the screw when the pedal is pushed and immediately close it as soon as the pedal bottoms out. This way you can be certain the flow is one way (e.g. OUT)
to learn more, read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2150890
A couple cans of fluid is cheaper, and easier to replace, than a caliper or a master cylinder.
takes you about an hour
get 2 liters of fluid to be sure you dont run out of clean fluid
(never use opened cans of fluid, only new)
also have some break cleaner, the screen in the reservoir will be nasty. wash it clean then let it dry while you do the flush
also, 2 things about the drain line
1) run the line up then down into the catcher
you want this because it allows any air bubbles to accumulate in the hump,
rather than run back up into the bleed screw
2) never let the end of the hose above the drained fluid, if you do it will empty
and you can have lots of air run back into the caliper.
it helps alot to have a friend work the pedal then you can open the screw when the pedal is pushed and immediately close it as soon as the pedal bottoms out. This way you can be certain the flow is one way (e.g. OUT)
to learn more, read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2150890
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