Adding fittings to valve cover - Breather Kit
I am going to soon add aluminum fittings to my valve cover to accomodate the Endyn Breather Kit. Are there any advantages or disadvantages to adding the 2 fittings to the back or front of the valve cover?
is it b00sted or high compression or no?
if its boosetd, plug both ports on the back of the block and have fittings welded into the valve cover (front)
if na, same thing but i think they are having better results from the back of the valve cover.
if its boosetd, plug both ports on the back of the block and have fittings welded into the valve cover (front)
if na, same thing but i think they are having better results from the back of the valve cover.
i would recommend the front of the valve cover because it is baffled. the back of the valve cover isn't baffled, so you will get a lot of oil spitting out.
x2 on the front (if you need to go that route).
If you aren't running a super high hp motor, there isn't a need to do the valve cover breather necessarily. The PCV delete / block breather setup is fine on it's own... If you do decide to breathe, the front makes for a cleaner install IMO, and the catch can can be easily placed on the frame rail (so that is sits just below the level of the line exit in the valve cover.
If you aren't running a super high hp motor, there isn't a need to do the valve cover breather necessarily. The PCV delete / block breather setup is fine on it's own... If you do decide to breathe, the front makes for a cleaner install IMO, and the catch can can be easily placed on the frame rail (so that is sits just below the level of the line exit in the valve cover.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are we allowed to have the front vents on the valve cover for Honda Challenge?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, as it doesn't say you can.
No, as it doesn't say you can.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7.4 Oil System
b) Valve covers may be modified only to accommodate a breather and/or filler.</TD></TR></TABLE>
woops i was wrong!
b) Valve covers may be modified only to accommodate a breather and/or filler.</TD></TR></TABLE>
woops i was wrong!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC4- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in hc can you have a run a breather off the back of the block or can you only run one off the valve cover?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Member 117 has 4 coming off of his valve cover and 2 off of his block (6 total). From my research, the ENDYN setup is insufficient for the block.
Member 117 has 4 coming off of his valve cover and 2 off of his block (6 total). From my research, the ENDYN setup is insufficient for the block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless your running a "chute" or pulling low 9's in the $.25 why is this mod being done???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Avoiding other problems. If you "need" fittings (block or valve cover) on a naturally aspirated engine means that you are in desperate need of the following...
PCV Valve, or Piston Rings
That is mostly the long and short of that. short of reducing pumping losses but then your in vacuum pump territory at that point and to my knowledge that is not quite allowed in HC yet.
-sander
Modified by sander at 11:19 PM 3/17/2008
Avoiding other problems. If you "need" fittings (block or valve cover) on a naturally aspirated engine means that you are in desperate need of the following...
PCV Valve, or Piston Rings
That is mostly the long and short of that. short of reducing pumping losses but then your in vacuum pump territory at that point and to my knowledge that is not quite allowed in HC yet.
-sander
Modified by sander at 11:19 PM 3/17/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless your running a "chute" or pulling low 9's in the $.25 why is this mod being done???</TD></TR></TABLE>
a catch can/breather kit is required on all NASA/SCCA cars
a catch can/breather kit is required on all NASA/SCCA cars
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a catch can/breather kit is required on all NASA/SCCA cars</TD></TR></TABLE>
realy???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is mostly the long and short of that. short of reducing pumping losses but then your in vacuum pump territory at that point and to my knowledge that is not quite allowed in HC yet.
-sander
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could plum the breather lines with a check falve and one line into the exhaust so it creates vacum.
-spenc.....hangs out with too many $0.25 milers
a catch can/breather kit is required on all NASA/SCCA cars</TD></TR></TABLE>
realy???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is mostly the long and short of that. short of reducing pumping losses but then your in vacuum pump territory at that point and to my knowledge that is not quite allowed in HC yet.
-sander
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could plum the breather lines with a check falve and one line into the exhaust so it creates vacum.
-spenc.....hangs out with too many $0.25 milers
I disagree. I had a very efficient PCV system with two catch cans plumbed into the setup to avoid oil being ingested in the engine via the PCV system, as the stock PCV system was not working adequately. The exhaust contained visible oil smoke on the track and on the dyno. Compression and leakdown numbers were good; compression numbers were within 2% to 3% of each other, and leak down numbers were 1%, 2%, 2%, 4%. The engine was a freshly built race engine built to OEM specs, but on the looser side.
It's a mostly stock H22 that makes around 200-ish WHP on T1's dyno.
Tony Palo suggested ditching the PCV setup all together and going with a straight breather setup. So we installed 4 -12 lines on the valve cover and plugged the inlet and outlet ports for the PCV system. Immediately after the install, the oil burning was greatly decreased, and stopped shortly afterwards. No on the dyno, and on the track, the car doesn't leave an oil smoke cloud.
I also had to remove the IM shortly after the breather install. The runners on the IM were coated with oil. Fortunately, I don't have an EGR system, so the oil was very, very clean and easy to remove.
The breather does get quite a bit of oil in it, but I installed a drain that runs back to the oil pan so I don't have to worry about filling up the breather tank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Avoiding other problems. If you "need" fittings (block or valve cover) on a naturally aspirated engine means that you are in desperate need of the following...
PCV Valve, or Piston Rings
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by 117 at 2:17 PM 3/18/2008
It's a mostly stock H22 that makes around 200-ish WHP on T1's dyno.Tony Palo suggested ditching the PCV setup all together and going with a straight breather setup. So we installed 4 -12 lines on the valve cover and plugged the inlet and outlet ports for the PCV system. Immediately after the install, the oil burning was greatly decreased, and stopped shortly afterwards. No on the dyno, and on the track, the car doesn't leave an oil smoke cloud.

I also had to remove the IM shortly after the breather install. The runners on the IM were coated with oil. Fortunately, I don't have an EGR system, so the oil was very, very clean and easy to remove.
The breather does get quite a bit of oil in it, but I installed a drain that runs back to the oil pan so I don't have to worry about filling up the breather tank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Avoiding other problems. If you "need" fittings (block or valve cover) on a naturally aspirated engine means that you are in desperate need of the following...
PCV Valve, or Piston Rings
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by 117 at 2:17 PM 3/18/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
realy???
you could plum the breather lines with a check falve and one line into the exhaust so it creates vacum.
-spenc.....hangs out with too many $0.25 milers</TD></TR></TABLE>
I actually did this at one point on a friends car (drag car) and it worked out successfully. Pretty cool idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disagree. I had a very efficient PCV system with two catch cans plumbed into the setup to avoid oil being ingested in the engine via the PCV system, as the stock PCV system was not working adequately. The exhaust contained visible oil smoke on the track and on the dyno. Compression and leakdown numbers were good; compression numbers were within 2% to 3% of each other, and leak down numbers were 1%, 2%, 2%, 4%. The engine was a freshly built race engine built to OEM specs, but on the looser side. It's a mostly stock H22 that makes around 207WHP on T1's dyno.
Tony Palo suggested ditching the PCV setup all together and going with a straight breather setup. So we installed 4 -12 lines on the valve cover and plugged the inlet and outlet ports for the PCV system. Immediately after the install, the oil burning was greatly decreased, and stopped shortly afterwards. No on the dyno, and on the track, the car doesn't leave an oil smoke cloud.
I also had to remove the IM shortly after the breather install. The runners on the IM were coated with oil. Fortunately, I don't have an EGR system, so the oil was very, very clean and easy to remove.
The breather does get quite a bit of oil in it, but I installed a drain that runs back to the oil pan so I don't have to worry about filling up the breather tank.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My comment may have been a little broad. I was speaking more towards stock "set up" engines. Looser race engines can sometimes require more "breathing" capability then tighter stock engines.
From a theory perspective in stock form you really should not need a breather can to help relieve crankcase pressure beyond what is originally there (PCV box etc). If your engine had 100% perfect sealing (this is impossible) under running conditions then you would not need any PCV system of any kind! You would not generate crankcase pressure because the volume of air below the piston would always average out to be the same (2 up 2 down).
Every engine builder has their own idea of "Looser" as opposed to "Tighter". The looser engines are generally designed to work with the greatest sealing at a given temperature with the least friction needed to do so (when speaking of rings) Even though you have 1-4% leak at 100 psi shop air you might not know what your leak percentage is when running at race pace as cylinder pressures and temperatures are a good bit higher. It is likely that you have more cylinder leakage at race pace with 1% static leakdown sitting still than a stock D16 at race pace with 1% static leakdown sitting still.
Sorry if my thoughts are jumbled, I am home today sick.
Oh good numbers BTW 207whp is excellent for HC spec engine.
-s
realy???
you could plum the breather lines with a check falve and one line into the exhaust so it creates vacum.
-spenc.....hangs out with too many $0.25 milers</TD></TR></TABLE>
I actually did this at one point on a friends car (drag car) and it worked out successfully. Pretty cool idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disagree. I had a very efficient PCV system with two catch cans plumbed into the setup to avoid oil being ingested in the engine via the PCV system, as the stock PCV system was not working adequately. The exhaust contained visible oil smoke on the track and on the dyno. Compression and leakdown numbers were good; compression numbers were within 2% to 3% of each other, and leak down numbers were 1%, 2%, 2%, 4%. The engine was a freshly built race engine built to OEM specs, but on the looser side. It's a mostly stock H22 that makes around 207WHP on T1's dyno.
Tony Palo suggested ditching the PCV setup all together and going with a straight breather setup. So we installed 4 -12 lines on the valve cover and plugged the inlet and outlet ports for the PCV system. Immediately after the install, the oil burning was greatly decreased, and stopped shortly afterwards. No on the dyno, and on the track, the car doesn't leave an oil smoke cloud.
I also had to remove the IM shortly after the breather install. The runners on the IM were coated with oil. Fortunately, I don't have an EGR system, so the oil was very, very clean and easy to remove.
The breather does get quite a bit of oil in it, but I installed a drain that runs back to the oil pan so I don't have to worry about filling up the breather tank.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My comment may have been a little broad. I was speaking more towards stock "set up" engines. Looser race engines can sometimes require more "breathing" capability then tighter stock engines.
From a theory perspective in stock form you really should not need a breather can to help relieve crankcase pressure beyond what is originally there (PCV box etc). If your engine had 100% perfect sealing (this is impossible) under running conditions then you would not need any PCV system of any kind! You would not generate crankcase pressure because the volume of air below the piston would always average out to be the same (2 up 2 down).
Every engine builder has their own idea of "Looser" as opposed to "Tighter". The looser engines are generally designed to work with the greatest sealing at a given temperature with the least friction needed to do so (when speaking of rings) Even though you have 1-4% leak at 100 psi shop air you might not know what your leak percentage is when running at race pace as cylinder pressures and temperatures are a good bit higher. It is likely that you have more cylinder leakage at race pace with 1% static leakdown sitting still than a stock D16 at race pace with 1% static leakdown sitting still.
Sorry if my thoughts are jumbled, I am home today sick.
Oh good numbers BTW 207whp is excellent for HC spec engine.

-s
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh good numbers BTW 207whp is excellent for HC spec engine. 
-s
</TD></TR></TABLE>
uh, i hope thats not a car in my class....

-s
</TD></TR></TABLE>
uh, i hope thats not a car in my class....
Well, that's on a dyno that reads a bit high I think. Last time I dyno'ed at a different dyno, I was at bit below 200, so don't read too much into it. Really.
Plus I'm a backmarker right now, and these past two races showed me that I need to work on my traffic management skills quite a bit.
Modified by 117 at 2:21 PM 3/18/2008
Plus I'm a backmarker right now, and these past two races showed me that I need to work on my traffic management skills quite a bit.

Modified by 117 at 2:21 PM 3/18/2008








