My idle seems to be kind of low maybe 700 rpm. I recently changed my cap rotor(oem), msd spark plug wires and denso Iradium. I was thinking it maybe the gap but usually denso comes pregapped at .44. What else could it be? When I first start it up it was fine until now!

here's the codes I got

P0108 (I think when my bro took out the map to see what it does)
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0300
P1399

I think I might take it to the Honda Dealership if I can't fix it. What kind of test should I do? Compression test? Leak test? Thanks


Modified by HeedLessInc at 6:57 PM 3/11/2008


Modified by HeedLessInc at 2:16 PM 3/19/2008

 

mine also has this problem, when I turn the steering wheel, engine off, try to bleed Air From The Coolant System..after this mine is ok now... P.S. It's only on my situation.

To Bleed Air From The Coolant System:
(Beginning with a cold engine)

1. Loosen (but do not completely remove) the air bleed bolt that is located on the top of the thermostat housing (follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to where the hose connects to the thermostat housing - the bleed bolt is located a few inches inward, behind the thermostat).
2. While keeping an eye on the bleeder bolt to look for bubbles as the coolant starts to run out, fill the radiator to the bottom of the radiator filler neck with coolant. Tighten the bleed bolt as soon as the coolant is running out in a steady stream without any bubbles. (If more than a few bubbles are noticed, remember to re-check the operation of the Fast Idle Thermo Valve once you have completed the bleeding procedure)
3. With the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it run until the engine warms up (the radiator fan has come on at least twice). Then, if necessary, add more coolant to bring the level up to the bottom of the filler neck. Put the radiator cap back on and tighten it completely. Allow the engine to continue to run until the radiator fan comes on, then look things over to make sure the bleed bolt or anywhere else is not leaking.

 

having same problem and looking for answers. Heres some starters for you though going off Michell Online..

A fuel intejector is clogged, leaking fuel or air
an open or shorted fuel injector circuit
a spark plug malfuntion, fouling or carbon build up
an open or leading spark plug wire
distributor malfunction
low engine compression
out of spec valve adjust.

those are possible problems, start with those.
if those dont work then..

use hearing device to see if u hear clicks coming from the injector

 

edit: double post

 

P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

P0300 Random Misfire
P0301 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire
P0302 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire
P0303 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire


Okay these are your codes, and my files dont have a code p1399, which makes me think its a mistype.

Start by fixing p0108. That might just be your issue.

Whats weird is if you didnt pull the wrong codes, you show nothing about cylinder 4

 

If the symptoms occured after you changed all that than I'd guess maybe you have the wrong wires hooked up to the wrong cylinders?

What other symptoms are you displaying?
700 rmp after warmed up is a good idle.

Don't take it to the honda stealership. I'm sure its something we can have you fix yourself!

Just keep posting and make sure you got the right spark plug wires go to right spark plugs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats weird is if you didnt pull the wrong codes, you show nothing about cylinder 4
</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats actually the same thing thats happen to me. 1 2 and 3 but no 4. So i dont think its a typo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avenged7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">having same problem and looking for answers. Heres some starters for you though going off Michell Online..

A fuel intejector is clogged, leaking fuel or air
an open or shorted fuel injector circuit
a spark plug malfuntion, fouling or carbon build up
an open or leading spark plug wire
distributor malfunction
low engine compression
out of spec valve adjust.

those are possible problems, start with those.
if those dont work then..

use hearing device to see if u hear clicks coming from the injector</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks I'll do a check!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattsnooz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the symptoms occured after you changed all that than I'd guess maybe you have the wrong wires hooked up to the wrong cylinders?

What other symptoms are you displaying?
700 rmp after warmed up is a good idle.

Don't take it to the honda stealership. I'm sure its something we can have you fix yourself!

Just keep posting and make sure you got the right spark plug wires go to right spark plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it was fine until maybe 2 weeks later then it starting bogging.it idles pretty bad from cold to hot, it blinks when im at idle and is really bad! I don't want to take it to the dealer but that's last resort!!

 

I have the SAME problem but I dont' know what to do! nobody knows how to fix it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avenged7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


thats actually the same thing thats happen to me. 1 2 and 3 but no 4. So i dont think its a typo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what was the cause?

 

What is code p1399? Still wondering about that one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HeedLessInc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what was the cause?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Were not sure, me and my auto teacher have been trying to crack this for 2 weeks. So far its only happened once, i reset it and it hasnt come back, but im still getting to rich codes now. So its a mess trying to determine the cause. I think what might have happen, which is a guess since it hasnt come back, is my spark plug wires came loose off the dizzy. I didnt get oem, just some nascar kraigen crap so the fitment is a little off.

But refer to my original post on possible problems why u might misfire, did u try those? results?

 

i looked at the wires and they all look fine, the plugs look like its running rich.so i dont think the injector is messed up. i still need to do a compression test.i didnt tuch the valves so i dont think its out of spec. some people say it might be bent but i dont know how it would be or if it is.

 

Have you bothered to have your coil pack tested?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you bothered to have your coil pack tested?</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do you do that??

 

Do u have a haynes manual or some other manual for your car? if not go pick one up. Shows u how to test a coil and ignition module and alot of the other problems you might want to test. Alot easier looking through those then waiting for answers

 

I went to the stealership and they said the EGR is bad! Took them 2 hrs to find the problem! I'm going to change it soon! My valve cover gasket is leaking too! If this doesnt fix the problem, im going to go choke the mechanic!!!

 

How on Earth did honda link a bad EGR and valve cover gasket with random misfires?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How on Earth did honda link a bad EGR and valve cover gasket with random misfires?</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually it was leaking!

 

What he is saying is...neither of those will cause misfiring.

It sounds like your coil is bad, get it replaced. The manuals don't really offer a clear instruction on testing them...they do however explain in detail how to test an ignition module which is usually always replaced when the coil is actually the culprit.

It would also help to make sure you replaced the rotor correctly(hand-crank or 'bump' motor to TDC, pull cap and make sure rotor is pointing at plug #1 contact), check and re-check the guts of the distributor to make sure everything is connected properly, and make sure the spring in the coil tower is contacting the correct spot on the inside of the cap. Those little springs fall off easily, and are small so you'd usually not notice it happen.

 

I saw a honda dealer service bulletin on how bad EGR cause misfire. I'll post the link when i find it. The rotor can only come out if its TDC right? I turn the igintion on and off til i saw the screw. I will double check the springs on the distributor. That guy took a long time trying to figure outthe problem, he was testing differnt things. I just hope this is the right dignosis because im buying a EGR valve tomorrow! Thanks everyone for the replys!

 

interesting, yea post that link when u get it

 

I dont think there is one. It might cause the engine to BOG down, but not misfire.

 

I've been trying to search for it but can't find it! In the service manual, if it's misfiring in hte low rpm, the EGR is the first thing to check!