I am in the middle of doing a DC2 Integra GSR front and rear brakes swap on my 1992 Honda Civic DX HB. I am kinda confuse on the brake master cylinder and brake booster. I know you are suppose to swap it, but I am confuse of what mc/bb I have since it looks different from other peoples Integra MC/BB. I was wondering if I can just swap the JDM GSR MC on to my EG BB? The JDM GSR BB looks and measures the same size has my EG. I have a JDM ITR MC and holes for the BB are diifferent than the JDM GSR.
Here I have, I think, a JDM GSR MC/BB.




Here i have the JDM ITR MC on the left and the JDM GSR MC on the right.


The JDM ITR MC


Here is my EG MC/BB still on the firewall.




Notice the JDM GSR MC holes that goes on the BB are the same as my EG.

Here is a Integra RS MC/BB




Modified by EGfosho at 7:07 PM 3/10/2008


Modified by EGfosho at 12:28 AM 3/11/2008

 

What kind of tool do I use to take the prop valve bracket off the prop valve?

 

I decided to just swap the MC only. I swapped it, bleed my brakes and took it out for spin and I can't do a skid test at 25mph and slamming on the brake pedal. The pedal is not firm at all and sometimes sinks towards the floor on regular braking. This was happening before i did the swap. I am thinking that my stock brake booster is bad and need to swap it out.

 

I swapped the brake booster with a RS BB and put on the 97 JDM ITR MC I have on it. I went around and bleed the brakes. Now the pedal is pretty firm. I can push halfway on it and it stays there. It does not sink down slowly towards the floor if I leave pressure on the pedal, which was happening on the JDM GSR MC/stock BB. BUT, when I turn the car on, the pedal looses all its pressure and it goes straight the floor. Eventhough it goes down to the floor there is pressure on the brake pads, because i can't turn the rotor. What the hell can cause this?

 

well the pedal is suppose to still be somewhat firm but when you first turn off the car it will go to the floor to release all the pressure in the booster but if you go to push it again it should be dead solid also if you have front and rear disc the front to rear ratio on a car that came with stock drums the right way to complete the swap is to put a 90-93 non abs acura intergra proportioning valve with should be easy to find and it bolts right in i have the setup on my hatch gsr master(us) with the brake booster and front and rear disc (99 gsr) and the proportioning valve and i had it bleed with a master cylinder vacuum booster it a large air tank with suction lines that go to all the calipers (this is the best way to do it) and i dont push my pedal half way down and my car is slowing down to stopping extremely great and works excellent on a hatch.

 

I got everything for the swap. I research before i did the swap. I have the 4040 prop valve and I got two of them from a 90-93 integra non-abs. The only thing you have to change on the prop vavle is the bracket.
After the car was on and I go to turn it off, the pedal does go to the floor but gets firm and solid when I go press on it again. But if I turn the car on again the pedal goes straight down to the floor when i press on it. Like if there is no pressure at all. Someone told me that I might have a leak some where and should check all the hard lines. CHECK. No leaks. I am going to work more on it tomorrow.

 

if the pedel is going to the floor when the car is on then there is probably air in the lines or it the brake booster. Standard way of checking the booster (with your brake system being hydraulicly fine, meaning hard pedel when the car is off) is to apply pressure to the brake pedel while starting the car. If the brake booster is air tight, then the pedel should move only about 1 inch.

The bb/mc assemblies in your pics do not appear to be from an integra. The brake booster is significantly thicker, and the mater cylinders are 1 inch. The stamp on the side of the master cylinder in the first pic says 15/16 in which is most likely a ef civic ex master cylinder. Its common in eg civic brake swaps from people to just swap the original 13/16 in. for the larger counter part because it is very close in valve diameter to the integra's and it fits on the stock eg brake booster.

Also, did you bench bleed the master cylinder? if you did not before you put the new master cylinder on, you could have air in it and therefore it is screwed. but most of the symptoms you speak of point to air in the lines

 

Well this was the before setup. JDM GSR or EF civic ex(whatever) on my stock BB. But did not like it because the pedal would sink towards the floor slowly when I am breaking or idling.



This is what I have in my car as of this morning, 97' JDM ITR MC/ Teg RS BB. Well at first I bleed the brakes when the car was off, then I bleed the brakes again when the car was on. Notice there was alot more air in the back brakes when the car was on, but bleed the brakes until there was no air.

 

Correction, it actually goes down 3/4 of the way down and holds pressure when the car is on, but when the car is off the pedal only goes 1/8 down. I rebleed while the car is off and I found no air at all. The only thing is that while the car is on and I press the brake pedal over and over again it will build pressure and become firm like the car is off. But once I stop pumping the brake pedal it will loose the pressure and go back down 3/4. I might have gotten bad luck on the brake booster.


Modified by EGfosho at 1:35 PM 3/15/2008

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it in? Everytime it goes dry you HAVE to take it out and bench bleed it. You may also have to adjust the booster with a vacuum gauge to see if its adjusted properly.

 

nah i didnt bench bleed the master cylinder. I just took it out right now and I press on the rod and brake fluid comes out both holes evenly. How do you adjust the booster with a vacuum gauge?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGfosho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah i didnt bench bleed the master cylinder. I just took it out right now and I press on the rod and brake fluid comes out both holes evenly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you MUST bench bleed the MC. one way is to thread in the hardlines a little by hand, and then back it off a bit. have someone step on the pedal so that air and fluid comes out of the nut-thread area (since it has been backed off). use a rag to cover up cuz it could spray out a bit.

another thing i found is to keep the same MC and Booster together. mix and matching for me didn't work cuz the rod length coming out of the booster is different between certain years/models.

 

SWEETNESS!!!!! Well, I got the brakes working finally the way I want them to be. I am still using the same ITR MC/ RS BB, but my friend Ingrate(Master of Honda) came over and used a mechanism that has a tank where you fill up brake fluid into. It has a hose on the top which connects to a lid that fits over your MC and two j hooks are use to clamp it down. Then you pump the tank up to 15psi and bleed your brakes. It got all the air out of my lines.
So the problem was I still had air in my lines.
This is what we use. The best thing for bleeding brakes.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/