anyone ?

well, I need to get the big *** crank pulley wrench first before I can try it, but the damn thing is torque about 130ish ft/lb . I don;t know if any of you have ever tried it...

if not where did you take your to get it off ?

I was thinking on getting a big *** breaker bar, morelike 4 ft of them.. I used a 2ft breaker bar to take out my head studs which were tqe about 60 ft/lb..

TIA

stan

 

I took out my main bolts with an impact wrench. I wouldn't use it to put them back, but to take it out...

Did you get a special crank pulley wrench, or are you using the locked flywheel method?

 

oh yeah, you always could put a big *** long pipe on your two foot breaker bar and end up with like a 6ft breaker bar. Or whatever length pipe you can find. That will save you some $$ sp you don't have to buy a new bigger breaker bar.

 

no, I am gonna get a new bolt anyhow...when I am putting it back in...
but I still need to get the pulley wrench to hold the wrench, I don't know if I want to use the locking flywheel teeth method, I am worry on stripping the flywheel teeth..

thanks

 

just buy a hex nut the size of the crank pulley opening and then weld a steel bar onto the nut.....bend the bar a little before u weld it so u can use it as a wrench

to get the crank pulley bolt off, i used a 1/2" drive rachet and the bar that is on my hydralic jack....it equals to about 3 ft and i stood on the bar and it busted loose....i have a h22 too, so the torque is 181 lb ft

 

I just have a really good impact gun that takes them off. Also, when you put the bolt back on, use a little anit-seize...that way if you have to take it off again, it wont be as tight.

 

I got one off with 275 ft-lb impact wrench and a 100 psi of air pressure. That wrench was not good enough to break the bolt loose on a 99 D16Y8.

Sonny

 

hopefully, * knock on wood* this is the last time I have to take them out...

thanks.

 

we snapped 3....yes 3 craftsman ratchets on that bad boy, but they are free so who cares. just use a long *** breaker bar and you should be able to get it.

 

lmao, that thing is on there mad tight! wait till u try taking it off, my advise is get air tool if you have access. btw we once used a 4ft extension breaker bar and that sob was bending!


[Modified by lucas569, 2:58 AM 7/8/2002]

 

damn,..sorry no air tools here, I guess I'll just take the block to a shop to get them out then ....

I am not wasting money on a craftsman (yes, I have a Craftsman tools now...) wrench...

hehe

thanks

 

Used a Harbor Freight $20 1/2in Breaker bar and 2 6" Extensions from home depot, works perfect every time. Before you strip a flywheel tooth i think you'll break whatever your holding with it first before you even touch the tooth.

 

I wouldn't try a virgin crankpulley bolt by hand. I have heard of people putting the car on a rack and using a long long long "cheeter pipe" though

 

I had my MOM (120 pounds) do it! I made a crank pulley holder by welding 1 3/4" tubing and a hex plumbing piece ($4 total). We braced the crank pulley holder against a stud in my garage. I stood on the engine stand and my mom yanked down on the 6' piece of 1 3/4" tubing that was on the breaker bar. She thought she broke the engine when the bolt broke free, it was pretty funny.

Ben

 

What's the flywheel holding method??

 

I just used a 2' long wrench i had and it came off pretty easy. It was a 00 b16a with 50k miles.

 

we just did the old redneck trick. just fill the cylindr when it is on compression stroke with rope, this will hold the motor still the turn with hughe braker bar. works everytime. just make sure the cyl you put rope into is on the right stroke or you could bend a valve. oh this is for an automatic where you cant lock the motor, on a manual im sure you can leave it in gear

 

it's a tool that bolt in to the block and have teeth that align with th flywheel, that way, it'll held the flywheel steady.