looking for some oppinions how noticeable a mini me is over a stock single cam vtec?

 

I had a Y7/Y8 mini me, and compared to the stock Y8 with the same mods, I found it was peppier through most of the rev range, I can't really say it was faster up top, but much nicer for daily driving, it seemed to have more torque everywhere.

 

not much difference, if any. people do mini-me's because they have a non-vtec motor and want the benefits of a vtec head. which is a great upgrade. if you already have a vtec motor, then your one step ahead already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2redstars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not much difference, if any. people do mini-me's because they have a non-vtec motor and want the benefits of a vtec head. which is a great upgrade. if you already have a vtec motor, then your one step ahead already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont have a vtec motor i was just considering why go through the mini me versus just swapping in a single cam vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skiracer8148 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont have a vtec motor i was just considering why go through the mini me versus just swapping in a single cam vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have a D15B7/D15B8 with D16Z6 head it will be slower than a complete Z6 swap for 2 reasons:

1) the Mini-Me bumps compression, thats why they have decent power, but it won't make up for the .1 liter of less displacement
2) The D15B8/B7 transmissions are geared for economy while the Z6 is geared for acceleration.

the D16Y7/Y8 minime won't have the first problem, but will still have the second problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skiracer8148 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont have a vtec motor i was just considering why go through the mini me versus just swapping in a single cam vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

then do it. do it right. get the vtec ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2redstars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

then do it. do it right. get the vtec ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does the Vtec ECU have to do with anything he has said? he is asking about power in a mini-me Vs a Z6 swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2) The D15B8/B7 transmissions are geared for economy while the Z6 is geared for acceleration.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That will be the main limitation.

The engine can produce power comparable to that of a z6, but the cam profile, tune, and manifolding will need to be considered.


Cliffs notes: mini-me's are not worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That will be the main limitation.

The engine can produce power comparable to that of a z6, but the cam profile, tune, and manifolding will need to be considered.


Cliffs notes: mini-me's are not worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a D15B8 block with a D16Y8 head and spent quite a bit of money trying to make it work well with good parts, and in the end, I got fed up with it having no torque and not being reliable and Bought a B18B1 instead.

I LOVE your sig ddd4114, Sounds like something I would have told the guy, Lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I LOVE your sig ddd4114, Sounds like something I would have told the guy, Lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha thanks. That thread was classic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
haha thanks. That thread was classic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

*here's one of my posts from a few days ago, equally classic:


But for the OP:

I was kinda brain-washed into thinking for cheap power you HAVE to stick to a D-series, but it turns out an LS swap is CHEAP, took me 2 days to do it *and I've never done a swap before in my life* and my car now has a factory reliable motor belting out 142hp/127tq, and has FAR greater potential than ANY d-series motor out there.

 

The only reason I did a mini-me swap was because I spun a bearing in my Y8, so by swapping in the Y7 bottom end, I had a cheap mini-me, with the vtec tranny, it was fun and got great fuel economy.

New car I'm tossing the Y8, and doing an LS swap.

 

if i was do it the mini me i would do it right with the proper ecu and the ex/si tranny,but an ls swap can add up quick with all the extras

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skiracer8148 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i was do it the mini me i would do it right with the proper ecu and the ex/si tranny,but an ls swap can add up quick with all the extras</TD></TR></TABLE>

a 'good' mini me will add up JUST as fast, Trust me, I know, I've spent a good $800 on my Y8 minime swap that I ended up parting out.

if you have a D15B7 *Which I assume you do*

you will need:

an EX Tranny : $200

a fresh clutch/pp/resurface your flywheel : $150

a fresh D16Z6 head with solenoid: $150

D16Y8 headgasket : $35

Z6 intake manifold: $40

Z6 wiring harness: $50

one of the most desirable ECU's on the market, a OBD1 P28 : $125

thats $750

and you have to drop your motor anyways *or support it somehow* to replace the transmission.

if you JUST do the headswap *Which is a great bang for the buck, even with the DX/LX trans, but not with a CX trans* you will be looking at spending $350-400

And heres what I paid for my B18 swap

LS Transmission with used clutch/flywheel/pp AND brand new shift linkage : $430 shipped

1996 LS full longblock out of an Automatic car : $250 *Not everyone realizes that the 96-00 LS's are bolt-in swaps just like the 94-95 LS's are, you just need to use the OBD2 wiring harness and it plugs right into the shock towers and basically converts it into OBD1, and the automatic engines are the same as the stickshift ones, only difference are you need to pull off 2 brackets that are in the way to install the manual T bracket and transmission*

Automatic LS Axles and midshaft: $25 *They are the same as manual ones, people don't always realize this*

PR4 ECU $55

so I've spent $760

 

what are the compression diffrence?

 

it will bump it to around 10:1 opposed to the stock 9:1ish, my D16Y8 mini swap had a 10.8:1 ratio

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What does the Vtec ECU have to do with anything he has said? he is asking about power in a mini-me Vs a Z6 swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
because if you dont use the proper ecu, you wont get the full benefits from doing the swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2redstars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
because if you dont use the proper ecu, you wont get the full benefits from doing the swap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That had nothing to do with any question presented in this thread, he didn't ask what he needed, or what to do, he asked what were the power differences...

 

yeah it does have to do with his post. if your not using the right ecu or some other means of properly tuning the car for the new setup, then you will not be making the power you should be. just switching the head is only part of the upgrade.