I was driving on one of Floridas major highway, Interstate 4.

It was pouring rain like the news said about a tornado watch.

When I was driving I could feel my rear end lifting over the water like it became a boat.

I was driving at around 55 mph. Nothing faster. I dropped at 40 mph the whole way home. What a long long long drive.

The tires I am driving with are the NT555 all around. Which are supposedly good for all conditions.

The tire sizes are front 225/40r18 and rear 255/35r18.

Aside from that.

This has happened to me before when I was driving with the RT615 in the rear and lost control and spun out 2.5 times into the median hitting nothing, luckily.

I called Discount Tire Co. that would know what my problem was.

They said that it could be because the rear tires are wider and the more narrow the tire is the better it would catch rain.

He also said that being the car so light is what is making the car lift over the water.

I would like to know what are you guy's recommendations to fix this.

And I do want to stay with my sa3r v2's.



Sun was not hitting the tire.



Sun was hitting the tire.

Tires are not balding obviously. They have about 10k+ miles on them. Never tracked used.

HELP ME!!!!!!!!

 

are those tires all-season or are they summer tires?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dagle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are those tires all-season or are they summer tires?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not too sure.

 

throw some sandbags in the trunk to weigh it down, drive slow, don't get punchy with the throttle, and don't expect sticky summer tires to be fantastic in the rain

 

i guess they are summer tires huh? i should start looking at some all season since i am always driving 1k+ miles a week

 

i have toyo proxes , i think the proxes 4, and they are very good in the rain... i just got home from a storm we are currently having and the car felt very stable

these, in 245/45/17

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Srr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have toyo proxes , i think the proxes 4, and they are very good in the rain... i just got home from a storm we are currently having and the car felt very stable

these, in 245/45/17
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you.

i posted this thread in two other places.

and i got a recommendation for goodyear eagle f1 gs-d3.

maybe the 4 in proxes 4 means all 4 seasons of the year.

 

no, summer tires do better in the rain. "all-season" tires only do better in the snow. Summer tires are usually the ones w/ highest dry/wet rating. The tires on my prelude are ZR ultra high performance tires and they grip perfectly in rain. it might just be that the tire you bought isn't that great. u can deflate the tires a bit for a larger contact patch i guess o.O but im not sure thats the problem here.

oh and yes eagleF1 GS-D3's are probably the best, but they dont last too long due to it's composition. u'll be VERY happy with it when its dry, haha its like a street slick.

 

No each tire is different. Some tires which have a great dry rating may suck in the rain.

Light cars + rain = drive slow, period. Don't drive like a fool and you'll be fine. Leave yourself extra room, be easy with the lane changes and throttle control. Thats it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No each tire is different. Some tires which have a great dry rating may suck in the rain.

Light cars + rain = drive slow, period. Don't drive like a fool and you'll be fine. Leave yourself extra room, be easy with the lane changes and throttle control. Thats it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats exactly what i was doing last night

way even before i felt that hydroplaning

im doing all that you said but at 40 mph on 65 mph highway hahahahaha

cars passing me easily at 70 mph

minivans and crappy cars galore hahahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Y0N1P8T5R1F5A4T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess they are summer tires huh? i should start looking at some all season since i am always driving 1k+ miles a week</TD></TR></TABLE>

1k+ miles a week? May I suggest you get a beater? Is that an option?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncleben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1k+ miles a week? May I suggest you get a beater? Is that an option?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah a beater would be nice hahaha

ill look into that also

im always on budgets though

we'll see

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OG SHG_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">throw some sandbags in the trunk to weigh it down, drive slow, don't get punchy with the throttle, and don't expect sticky summer tires to be fantastic in the rain</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL!! sandbags for the rain??? Cmon meow.

Those tires are not all season. They are summer times. However, with a directional tread pattern like that, they should be just fine for the rain.

How is your alignment? Have you aligned the car after lowering it? When the S2000's rear suspesion compresses, it induces toe out. Toe out in the rain is a disaster.

Seeing as your tires look cupped..the alignment was either never done, or done shitty. S2000s are hard to align. Make sure they give you a before and after print out. Go somewhere reputable.

A beater is a good idea also...but that doesn't solve your issue. The car should be decently stable in the rain. If there's HUGE puddles of standing water, there's really no car that will be completely stable on any tires, however.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL!! sandbags for the rain??? Cmon meow.

Those tires are not all season. They are summer times. However, with a directional tread pattern like that, they should be just fine for the rain.

How is your alignment? Have you aligned the car after lowering it? When the S2000's rear suspesion compresses, it induces toe out. Toe out in the rain is a disaster.

Seeing as your tires look cupped..the alignment was either never done, or done shitty. S2000s are hard to align. Make sure they give you a before and after print out. Go somewhere reputable.

A beater is a good idea also...but that doesn't solve your issue. The car should be decently stable in the rain. If there's HUGE puddles of standing water, there's really no car that will be completely stable on any tires, however.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

ill do an alignment

never did after lowering the car

stupid me on my part

can i go to the local dealership or will they not align my car on aftermarket wheels?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Y0N1P8T5R1F5A4T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks

ill do an alignment

never did after lowering the car

stupid me on my part

can i go to the local dealership or will they not align my car on aftermarket wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol....you seriously didn't do an alignment after lowering???

You can go to the dealership, they usually do a good job, but they will steal your money. You can go get a LIFETIME alignment from a place like firestone. I have heard mixed reviews about the quality, though...so watch them like a hawk..make sure they do it carefully and make sure YOU GET A BEFORE AND AFTER PRINT OUT!!!


You can go to sears also...they do $65 one time alignments. Again...watch the guy very carefully (without bugging him). Get a before and after print out.

You dont have to go back to factory numbers...and you may not be able to at that ride height.

Try these specs:

Front:
Camber: -1.5 to -2
Caster: Max available
Toe: factory

Rear:
Camber: -2 to -2.5
Toe: Factory

The rear is hard to align. Camber and toe have an inverse relationship (neg. camber = pos. toe).

If you set the toe to factory first, then try to set camber all at once, the toe will be wacked out when you get to the correct camber and vice versa. Usually you adjust toe first and then the rest....but on an S2000, I find it's best to do a little give and take. Go back and forth.

Say you're trying to get to -2.5 camber and factory toe. Set the toe first at a little more negative than factory. Then set camber to about -2.25. Then set toe to factory. The camber should be RIGHT around -2.5 at that point. You can do some nudging as necessary.

Ofcourse, the setting instructions are for the alignment tech to know. If he does this method, then he knows what he's doing and he's taking care to do it properly on your vehicle.

Alignment techs either are incompetent sometimes, or they just give up since volume of cars is important. They can't spend too much time on one car.

Tip the guy $10 or so before the service starts and tell him to do a really good job.

I just help my friend align my car...so if you have access to a friend at a shop, do that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol....you seriously didn't do an alignment after lowering???

You can go to the dealership, they usually do a good job, but they will steal your money. You can go get a LIFETIME alignment from a place like firestone. I have heard mixed reviews about the quality, though...so watch them like a hawk..make sure they do it carefully and make sure YOU GET A BEFORE AND AFTER PRINT OUT!!!


You can go to sears also...they do $65 one time alignments. Again...watch the guy very carefully (without bugging him). Get a before and after print out.

You dont have to go back to factory numbers...and you may not be able to at that ride height.

Try these specs:

Front:
Camber: -1.5 to -2
Caster: Max available
Toe: factory

Rear:
Camber: -2 to -2.5
Toe: Factory

The rear is hard to align. Camber and toe have an inverse relationship (neg. camber = pos. toe).

If you set the toe to factory first, then try to set camber all at once, the toe will be wacked out when you get to the correct camber and vice versa. Usually you adjust toe first and then the rest....but on an S2000, I find it's best to do a little give and take. Go back and forth.

Say you're trying to get to -2.5 camber and factory toe. Set the toe first at a little more negative than factory. Then set camber to about -2.25. Then set toe to factory. The camber should be RIGHT around -2.5 at that point. You can do some nudging as necessary.

Ofcourse, the setting instructions are for the alignment tech to know. If he does this method, then he knows what he's doing and he's taking care to do it properly on your vehicle.

Alignment techs either are incompetent sometimes, or they just give up since volume of cars is important. They can't spend too much time on one car.

Tip the guy $10 or so before the service starts and tell him to do a really good job.

I just help my friend align my car...so if you have access to a friend at a shop, do that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ha! thank you for all the information

it was very helpful

ill make sure

ill check out the dealership first and then shop around

ill definitely take note on all the specs

 

Hey "Y0N1P8T5R1F5A4T" double check the thread on those tires. the one on the left rear looks cupped and somewhat worn but the one on the right rear looks like it has less than 3/32nds which is really low.

double check the tire threads and if they are lower than 4/32nds i'll start looking into buying new ones. and of course get your alingment man!

 

i labeled there that the lighting was different

but ill look into it

thanx

 

Have the tires measured out with a gauge. If there's much of a difference side to side or if there's much of a difference from the inside edge to the outside edge of the tire (more than 1/32'' tread difference), then buy new tires BEFORE getting the alignment.

The alignment can only be done properly if the tires have a square contact patch with the ground. They can't be unevenly worn or feathered or anything.

The cupping looks pretty bad on your tires. Look into getting new ones either way.

Also, to those it may concern: It's TREAD, not THREAD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Y0N1P8T5R1F5A4T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah a beater would be nice hahaha

ill look into that also

im always on budgets though

we'll see</TD></TR></TABLE>

here you go: click me

 

Before you do anything else, get your set up aligned - get the best guy you can find. After i lowered my car, i waited a couple of weeks, and then got the wheels all checked - they were completely out of whack - the difference after was huge - like i gained about 5-10hp - seriously. If your tyres are fighting each other, your car will just not work properly.

 

ha!! wow!!

thank you guys a lot for all your help!!!

greatly appreciate it!!