I have a 91 crx si with just over 200K on it. For about the past couple of months, after 40 minutes of straight driving, I'll be sitting at a light, the light goes green, I hit the accelerator, and the car either almost dies or dies. It starts right back up if it dies, and I'm on my way. If it almost dies and I catch it in time and hit the throttle more, it doesn't die.

Yesterday, I go out to my car during my lunch break, try to start it up. Nothing. It just keeps turning. i wait, as I have surely flooded the car. I try again, after about 10 cranks it starts with a huge plume of smoke (remember the flooding?). I drive away, after the car gets warm, I am coming to a stop at the light, the car dies. I turn it back on, once it tries to rest at idle it dies. I wait for the light to go green, turn the car on hit the throttle, and it stays on while throttle is being pushed. So anytime I did not have my foot on the throttle it would die at idle and this is only when the car is warm. Cold it idles fine.

After doing quite a bit of research, and taking into consideration the hot/cold comparison I am leaning towards a bad igniter, what do you guys think?

 

ever replaced the main relay? sounds like you may also have either a idle system malfunction, or yes it could be a dist. problem. Any jumping around/fidgety tach or Check engine lights?

 

No, I never have replaced the main relay. No jumping around, I have had the check engine light come on, I guess I should check the code...

 

I just checked the engine code, it's throwing engine code 9

Edited:
So after some research, engine code 9 might have something to do with my distributor...but I had that thing recently replaced, due to it basically blowing up on the inside...Do I need another one? Ugh.


Modified by persianp at 10:23 AM 3/8/2008

 

no you dont need a new one just check the wires from the dis and check that the wires are connected well. I replaced the dis also and after it changed it i was still getting code 9 but discovered one wire wasn't making good connection.

 

Either the distributor sensors are bad or a wire(s) from these sensors to the ECU has an open or short.

 

I just followed this

I cleared the ecu and it's no longer throwing a code...does this change the prognosis?
Do I now just go out and buy a new igniter, or should I try the main relay first?

 

Yeah, do nothing with the code unless it repeats.

As for igniter versus main relay, the way to decide is to determine whether you have a "no spark" versus "no fuel" problem, respectively. The recent code 9 makes me lean toward "no spark", but do the appropriate tests to verify.

 

Okay, one week later, and it's Saturday. I went and I replaced the ICM. I go to crank the car, and it just turns over, doesn't start. My problem previously didn't involve the car not turning on, so I was like, great, I bought a [freak]ing 100 dollar ICM that doesn't work. So i put the old ICM back in, expecting the car to turn over. It didn't. So, this lead me to check for spark. Surprise there is no spark. So, I checked spark at the plug, no spark there. Then spark at the cap, no spark there. Then spark at the Coil, no spark there.

The Main relay works, I hear the click, the fuel pump and the CEL work as they should.

So then i removed the distibutor cap and rotor (which is new by the way). I checked for voltage between the coils positive terminal and ground while the car was in the "on" position. It did have voltage. Then I made sure input 3 and the distributor body ground had battery power with the key switch ON. It did. Then I disconnected the WHT/BLU wire from terminal 2 on the igniter. Then I checked for battery voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and distributor body ground. Voltage was present.

Then I connected one end of a test light to the battery (+) terminal, the other tip to the terminal marked ( - ) on the coil. I then cranked the engine, and there was no blinking light. Then that means check the ignitor, I then put the test light leads into the end of the injector terminals. Cranked the motor and got a blinking light. This means the igniter is bad, then I put the new igniter back in, tested the injector terminal, and still got a blinking light. It's not working. My car is still dead. Did I buy a bad igniter? Could it be the coil? Why did my car turn on before and not now? I have no idea.

 

yea check the coil...i had that problem long time ago....the car would want to start but it wouldnt...so yea check the Coil....