ok i took my car to the mechanic today for a valve adjustment, after he did it the car seem to idle high when warming up.
After it warmed up the car idled soooo low that it kept turning off. So after he told some excuse about my tps sensor not being calibrated correctly, we decided to unplug it and the car idled around 1100, and 1200 rpms. I took the car home calibrated the tps to .45V closed throttle and 3 point something fully open. I also took off my throttle body and cleaned off all the black gunk inside.

Now the car idles surges between 800 rpm, and 1200 rpms slowly when in neutral. If i pull it out of gear it stays at 2000 rpms for 2 or 3 seconds then drops and does the same thing. When the car idles around 900rpms it sounds like its backfiring very lighly.

Im thinking the mechanic tightened the valves to much, what do you guys think?????

I searched and found this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2158886

 

Yeah your mechanic effed up. If there is an idle serge after taking apart the TB, something isnt right. Mabey you forgot a gasket, and or the vaccum is effed. Up.

Take it back and tell them to fix it right or your coming back with a lawyer

 

im going to make them do it over.What are the specs????

 

.45v closed
~4.5v WOT

if you are only getting 3v, you have a bad TPS or something TPS related went bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LukieLuc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to make them do it over.What are the specs????</TD></TR></TABLE>

FAQs has that info on the Valves

 

so can a bad tps effect the IACV?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LukieLuc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so can a bad tps effect the IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not directly. But the TPS is a critical component of the EFI system and the ecu uses it to determine fuel and ignition and can cause fluctuations.

also, a valve adjustment that was too tight can cause idle problems.

 

thanks for the info, i will be going back to the place tomorrow to make them check their work over

 

valve adjustment should have no effect on the idle. something must be disconnected still. check vac lines and ask what else the mechanic did.

 

Intake .006-.007
Exhaust .007-.008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Intake .006-.007
Exhaust .007-.008</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I keep reading is that in inches or mm

 

inches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">valve adjustment should have no effect on the idle. something must be disconnected still. check vac lines and ask what else the mechanic did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It really does have an effect.

If the valve lash is set too tight, the valves will be open slightly just riding the cam, not during their cycle, but off the lobe, and that is the reason it is idling high.

3.xV is a bit low for WOT on the tps. Yours may need to be replaced, and just fwiw, the tps range of adjustment for 0% throttle is .45V to .55V. The ecu will "learn" the curve as long as you set it anywhere in that range.

 

If the only thing he did was adjust the valve lash, that should be what you check first. Lash set too tight will also increase wear a lot, so get it taken care of.

 

I'm actually at the shop right now. They used the all data specs for the usdm 95 prelude 2.2 dohc vtec motor which was way larger than the .006, and .008 you guys gave me

 

.006 and .008 inches are correct specs.

Tell me this, how long did he have the car?

You have to let the engine cool overnight, at least, to do the valve adjustment. EVERYTHING must be completely cool, or it will not come out correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to let the engine cool overnight, at least, to do the valve adjustment. EVERYTHING must be completely cool, or it will not come out correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x10. This is something that must be done with the car left there overnight. You're sure they're using inches right?

 

okay, i called them and told them to wait overnight before they do it again. Before they waited like 45min, thanks guys allot

he said he will call me sometime monday afternoon because they are not open sunday
i will keep you guys updated.

by the way Why does the engine have to be completely cold before they do it?

 

metal expands with heat

IMO, if your "mechanic" doesn't know to wait overnight to do a job like that, you shouldn't be paying him.

 

lol i live in the NY half these guys dont know what they are doing

90% of the mechanics i went to, to do the valve adjustment told me that it cant be adjusted

Right now i still dont think they'll do it right, i would rather get my 170 bucks back and do it my self

 

This is one of those jobs that's easy to mess up if you don't have a vested interest in the vehicle. It's really not that complicated. Just get the valveadjuster screw tool and feeler gauges from Sears.
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade...r=8-2


Btw, the dealer charges less than $100 for a valve adjustment. I wouldn't trust them with it either though.

 

if they are unable to do it right again, how would you guys suggest i go about asking for my money back?

 

There's no way for you to know if they did it correctly or not unless you use feeler gauges and check it yourself. It can be too tight and still idle ok. The fact that it didn't idle properly indicates that the lash was set severely too tight. I doubt you can get your money back. Just look at it as a lesson learned and just adjust them to spec yourself. It's really not that hard and doing it yourself will give you the confidence to tackle more complicated jobs.

 

Yeah, I learned to adjust valves from a friend in a parking lot after being screwed over by a Honda dealership, Huey Honda in St. Louis actually. It is actually an easy job and I can't believe I ever paid someone 100 dollars to do it. Just grab a manual and use a feeler gauge that is between the minimum and maximum, like .007 if your spec is between .006 and .008. That way you shouldn't end up too tight or loose if you are not familiar with doing the job. Check your cam and crank timing while you are in there too.

 

You paid $170? I think Honda dealerships do it for $65-$75. At least it was that rate 3 years ago. But now that I think about it, I think they only waited about 2 hours before doing it, but I know they did it because I marked certain visible spots of the valve cover gasket with sharpie to make sure they actually took it off and replaced it. I don't trust shops at all haha.