spring rate?
i know plenty about hondas and the engines. however somethin i never really got into was the suspension. im looking for any kind of easy info on suspension you are willing to share with me to gain my knowledge on the matter. with that said, my real quastion here is about spring rate's. im looking at a set of lowering springs for my eg hatch with b16a swap if that matters. the springs im looking at have a spring rate of 450/250. im curious if this is any good?
nobody knows?
also im curious to know do you have to have the spring compressed onto the strut or can you just slip the spring on the strut and the weight of the car compress it and then bolt it. or am i totally off here?
also im curious to know do you have to have the spring compressed onto the strut or can you just slip the spring on the strut and the weight of the car compress it and then bolt it. or am i totally off here?
Who makes the sprngs? Are you looking at putting those springs on stock shocks? Are you planning on doing any racing (on a track) with this car?
Nobody knows because there's no answer to the question you posed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmpower363 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also im curious to know do you have to have the spring compressed onto the strut or can you just slip the spring on the strut and the weight of the car compress it and then bolt it. or am i totally off here?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would remove and install springs with a spring compressor, the proper tool. I can imagine using the weight of the car to do the same job for spring removal, but getting them back on the car with that method is a different matter.
Nobody knows because there's no answer to the question you posed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmpower363 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also im curious to know do you have to have the spring compressed onto the strut or can you just slip the spring on the strut and the weight of the car compress it and then bolt it. or am i totally off here?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would remove and install springs with a spring compressor, the proper tool. I can imagine using the weight of the car to do the same job for spring removal, but getting them back on the car with that method is a different matter.
i plan on doing some drag racing at the track, but i do nothing else. im more less just looking for a drop. they are only a drop of 1.5". i didnt state the brand becuase ppl like to judge by the brand and not its actual performance.
i read on another thread there a tool you can rent or buy to use to take the stock springs off. it also showed a pic and it made sence and it looked like it would work for both jobs, on and off. but i dont know, im lookin to find the cheapest but easiest way to jsut get this done. also to learn a few things.
i read on another thread there a tool you can rent or buy to use to take the stock springs off. it also showed a pic and it made sence and it looked like it would work for both jobs, on and off. but i dont know, im lookin to find the cheapest but easiest way to jsut get this done. also to learn a few things.
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so how does all that work.. the higher the number this stiffer it is? or the other way around.
i know some tein s-techs are like stock but lower and there springs rates are 212/140
i know some tein s-techs are like stock but lower and there springs rates are 212/140
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same car as you, I just got 380f/330r, handles great and is comfortable on the street. I am only about 1.5 inch lower than stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This sounds like a great setup for the original poster/thread creator.
Koni/GC
This sounds like a great setup for the original poster/thread creator.
Koni/GC
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">330 rear sounds kind of harsh for street driving. Isn't the stock rate 100 something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to ruhn 450 front 400 rear on my Ek and it wasn't harsh at all (it's an opinion though). I have 700/600 on my DC now and it's stiff, but not too bad (also my opinion). I drove the DC 740 miles straight (only stopping for gas) and it didn't beat me up too bad.
I used to ruhn 450 front 400 rear on my Ek and it wasn't harsh at all (it's an opinion though). I have 700/600 on my DC now and it's stiff, but not too bad (also my opinion). I drove the DC 740 miles straight (only stopping for gas) and it didn't beat me up too bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I used to ruhn 450 front 400 rear on my Ek and it wasn't harsh at all (it's an opinion though). I have 700/600 on my DC now and it's stiff, but not too bad (also my opinion). I drove the DC 740 miles straight (only stopping for gas) and it didn't beat me up too bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have stuff in the trunk?
I used to ruhn 450 front 400 rear on my Ek and it wasn't harsh at all (it's an opinion though). I have 700/600 on my DC now and it's stiff, but not too bad (also my opinion). I drove the DC 740 miles straight (only stopping for gas) and it didn't beat me up too bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have stuff in the trunk?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have stuff in the trunk?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just the spare and some small parts. I have no interior behind the drivers seat and an autopower roll bar.
Just the spare and some small parts. I have no interior behind the drivers seat and an autopower roll bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just the spare and some small parts. I have no interior behind the drivers seat and an autopower roll bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind of suspension setup are you running? Coilovers? Sleeves and shocks? im thinking about going 650/550 or somthing near that. i will have a single 10" sub in the rear with amp. let me know what you think. Id preferably like to do a full coilover of some sort but i am staying flexible and am open to suggestions. Car is a 98' gsr
Just the spare and some small parts. I have no interior behind the drivers seat and an autopower roll bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind of suspension setup are you running? Coilovers? Sleeves and shocks? im thinking about going 650/550 or somthing near that. i will have a single 10" sub in the rear with amp. let me know what you think. Id preferably like to do a full coilover of some sort but i am staying flexible and am open to suggestions. Car is a 98' gsr
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I used to ruhn 450 front 400 rear on my Ek and it wasn't harsh at all (it's an opinion though). I have 700/600 on my DC now and it's stiff, but not too bad (also my opinion). I drove the DC 740 miles straight (only stopping for gas) and it didn't beat me up too bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm running 560lb/448lb in my ej8, taking 2hour+ trips in and around socal/central cal/norcal gets a bit annoying at times, but gets barable once you get use to it. The rates are bit high for a DD but this setup is just for temp. till i save up for a better suspension.
I used to ruhn 450 front 400 rear on my Ek and it wasn't harsh at all (it's an opinion though). I have 700/600 on my DC now and it's stiff, but not too bad (also my opinion). I drove the DC 740 miles straight (only stopping for gas) and it didn't beat me up too bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm running 560lb/448lb in my ej8, taking 2hour+ trips in and around socal/central cal/norcal gets a bit annoying at times, but gets barable once you get use to it. The rates are bit high for a DD but this setup is just for temp. till i save up for a better suspension.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackoutt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the more stiff the more bouncy it is? </TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily. I'm running the high rates on Koni race valved (aka SPSS3) shocks, it's stiff but not bouncy at all. The shocks control the bounce, so if you're under damped for the spring rate it will be bouncy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackoutt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rates should I get to ride low on wide rims?(15x8)</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't matter what rates you have, if you're bottoming out the shock it will be bouncy. So make sure if you're going low you have enough shock travel.
not necessarily. I'm running the high rates on Koni race valved (aka SPSS3) shocks, it's stiff but not bouncy at all. The shocks control the bounce, so if you're under damped for the spring rate it will be bouncy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackoutt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rates should I get to ride low on wide rims?(15x8)</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't matter what rates you have, if you're bottoming out the shock it will be bouncy. So make sure if you're going low you have enough shock travel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmpower363 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i the springs im looking at have a spring rate of 450/250. im curious if this is any good?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Regardless of the absolute spring rates, if the rear springs are too soft relative to the front springs the car will gain understeer, possibly a great deal. Without being an expert on spring rates, my guess is that the rate difference between those front / rear springs may be too great, and the car may understeer.
This isn't to imply that to reduce or eliminate understeer, that the rear rates should actually be higher than the front rates in absolute terms. The spring rate at a particular end of the car will (I think) be relative to the amount of weight carried on the springs at that end (not to mention the leverage ratios of the suspension acting on the springs). So I suppose it's possible to have rear springs that in absolute terms were softer than the front springs (i.e. as measured off the car), but effectively were similar or even stiffer in rate than the front springs? (if you follow my meaning?).
Regardless of the absolute spring rates, if the rear springs are too soft relative to the front springs the car will gain understeer, possibly a great deal. Without being an expert on spring rates, my guess is that the rate difference between those front / rear springs may be too great, and the car may understeer.
This isn't to imply that to reduce or eliminate understeer, that the rear rates should actually be higher than the front rates in absolute terms. The spring rate at a particular end of the car will (I think) be relative to the amount of weight carried on the springs at that end (not to mention the leverage ratios of the suspension acting on the springs). So I suppose it's possible to have rear springs that in absolute terms were softer than the front springs (i.e. as measured off the car), but effectively were similar or even stiffer in rate than the front springs? (if you follow my meaning?).
you might want to have a softer front and a stiffer rear end for FWD drag car, correct me if i am wrong(i dont drag fwd or drag race for that matter), when you launch the car you want a stiff rear spring so all the weight will not shift to the back=less frontal traction.
if drag racing is all you do you might want to do more research on that
if drag racing is all you do you might want to do more research on that



