I NEED HELP. I have a 2000 honda civic si. I have two choises to do. my dad will not allow me to get a turbo on it or something that will not make it as reliable. i know gay. the first chosie is that i get the h22 motor and drop it in the civic and sale the stock on. and that other choise i have to that i have aobut 2000. that i can do on the stock b16 motor that is it but i can not get a turbo. i want to get around 210 whp. i do not know which on is a better choose so hepl my out please.

 

Buy a B18C shortblock. Reuse your head. Sell the B16 shortblock to offset the cost. Rework the head (cams, springs, retainers, pnp). Bump up the compression with higher dome pistons. Slap on an ITR intake manifold or go aftermarket. Get a real nice header (not necessarily anything above $1000, just no DC Sport or eBay). Get the motor tuned.

 

+1 I would have to agree with BlueIntegraBoy on this one thats your best bet/ LS/VTEC are no joke they are really strong engines, and you can make good power out of them N/A or boosted.

 

B20 Vtec

 

if u wanna sell your si motor, let me know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a B18C shortblock. Reuse your head. Sell the B16 shortblock to offset the cost. Rework the head (cams, springs, retainers, pnp). Bump up the compression with higher dome pistons. Slap on an ITR intake manifold or go aftermarket. Get a real nice header (not necessarily anything above $1000, just no DC Sport or eBay). Get the motor tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's either going to cost more than $2000 or not make 210whp or both.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BadFD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">+1 I would have to agree with BlueIntegraBoy on this one thats your best bet/ LS/VTEC are no joke they are really strong engines, and you can make good power out of them N/A or boosted.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He said B18C block, yo. It's not an LS VTEC.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CO$T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20 Vtec </TD></TR></TABLE>

He only has $2000. Also, he needs it to be RELIABLE.

OP: Your dad is probably paying for your car/repairs/mods. So it's not really GAY that he doesn't want you to have an unreliable car. A $2000 turbo kit is most likely going to be garbage enough to make the whole car garbage. You could just buy $2000 worth of garbage from the dump and put it in your car. It would make it just as undesireable to drive.

You're really not going to get anywhere close to 210whp with $2000 whether you buy a bigger motor or build your B16A.

An NA street reliable B16A will not make 210whp. If it does, it wont be a B16A anymore. If you do that, it will cost WAY WAY more than $2000.

An H22 makes around 165ish whp stock. Even if you spent $2500 on a swap plus other parts, you'd still be around 45whp short.

I really hate to smash your dreams, but it's just reality. You're gonna need to stack your bank account for a long *** time before you save up enough to make 210WHP NA. On any 4 cyl. honda motor that goes into a civic easily.

The K20A (Type R) would be your most likely and easy candidate. It will also be one of the most expensive choices. But it will be OEM style reliable since it just needs a bolt on or two to make that power level.

 

not gonna happen kid.
Do some research about proper tuning vs reliability
It's not the turbo that's going to blow up your engine. It's skimping on tuning.

 

i say u drop in the h22 it pulls harder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


He only has $2000. Also, he needs it to be RELIABLE.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Explain to me how it isn't RELIABLE Going on 2 1/2 years no issue at all on mine. He has the head at most the long block would be a 1000 shipped I have one here i would let go for like 650 he has the head he needs what 35 bux in line for the oil line. a 35 cent plug new head gasket 70 buxs fluids 50 buxs. head studs 175 . machine shop on the head like 85 bux to have it checked out so explain to me how that doesn't fit in to his budget and alo how it isn't reliable.

My B20 is 196 hp with a stock B20z block only diffrence in the setup was a set of Rocket cams still driving it today just oil changes and up keep.

So let me know about how it isn't a reliable set up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BadFD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">+1 I would have to agree with BlueIntegraBoy on this one thats your best bet/ LS/VTEC are no joke they are really strong engines, and you can make good power out of them N/A or boosted.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He suggested a poor mans type R not an ls/vtec

b18c= gsr bottom end

 

Just an opinion... be nice people! : Build your internals, get a new intake manifold and what not, and get some nitrous up in there . That way it can be reliable without the nitrous, and you only use your nitrous for short spurts... If you build it right, it could last. Just my $.02

 

i say do b20 vtec. and a nice tune a frined of mine had b20 vtec type r head and tranny and put down 204 to the wheels.. extremely nice set up and still running strong..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agent_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just an opinion... be nice people! : Build your internals, get a new intake manifold and what not, and get some nitrous up in there . That way it can be reliable without the nitrous, and you only use your nitrous for short spurts... If you build it right, it could last. Just my $.02</TD></TR></TABLE> buy some pistons, rods(from me!) headstuds, Nx wet 75 shot. Nuff said. You will have what you want.

 

Even a motor swap of any sort is possibly going to sacrifice reliability. $2000 is not going to net you 210 whp without forced induction, done deal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CO$T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Explain to me how it isn't RELIABLE Going on 2 1/2 years no issue at all on mine. He has the head at most the long block would be a 1000 shipped I have one here i would let go for like 650 he has the head he needs what 35 bux in line for the oil line. a 35 cent plug new head gasket 70 buxs fluids 50 buxs. head studs 175 . machine shop on the head like 85 bux to have it checked out so explain to me how that doesn't fit in to his budget and alo how it isn't reliable.

My B20 is 196 hp with a stock B20z block only diffrence in the setup was a set of Rocket cams still driving it today just oil changes and up keep.

So let me know about how it isn't a reliable set up
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's your definition of reliable? What exactly do you do with your B20? How high do you rev?

P.S. 196hp is not 210whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's your definition of reliable? What exactly do you do with your B20? How high do you rev?

P.S. 196hp is not 210whp. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's your definition of reliable? What exactly do you do with your B20? How high do you rev?

P.S. 196hp is not 210whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

60 plus miles a day reliable. revs daily drivng to 5 k but sees 8500 when needed with no problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CO$T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

60 plus miles a day reliable. revs daily drivng to 5 k but sees 8500 when needed with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm....iduno. It still doesn't sound OEM reliable. Think about it. Honda advertises it's cars as "reliable". Could your engine be considered as reliable as a car off the factory floor? Or even close? I'm not ragging on you, but I guess my definition of reliability is strict.

Could you road race your setup? With no issues?

 

It's not even a matter of whether his setup is reliable or not... it could be 100% but that won't guarantee anyone else with the same setup equal reliability. Without a doubt, more people have problems with modified engines as opposed to stock engines. Also, undoubtedly, more people have trouble with OEM engines in different chassis than with OEM engines in its original chassis. With that said, another person could build a B20/vtec and run into problems. Simple as that. You want reliable? Don't **** with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You want reliable? Don't **** with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


godly advice right there..

 

How much does it cost to do the Poor man's Type R if I do own a EM1 w/ B16A2 on it?
I only hv a grand save up so far and I don't hv any parents' financial support
GSR block ($400)
Sell my B16 block for ($???)
CTR pistons and rings ($200)
Get the head Ported and Polished ($???)
CTR cam ($???)
Intake manifold ($???)
used mugen header ($???)
LS crank ($???)

What else do I need?
oil pump? oil pan? fuel pump? water pump? timing belt?

Do anyone know the estimate price for the parts above?

 

Why does your father get a say in what is going on with your car anyway? Did he pay for it, fully or partially? If so, then YOU have no say in modding a car that is technically his. If you paid for the car 100%, then I would try explaining to him that you will be entirely responsible for any damage you cause to the car. Can you afford that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monkeysauce &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why does your father get a say in what is going on with your car anyway? Did he pay for it, fully or partially? If so, then YOU have no say in modding a car that is technically his. If you paid for the car 100%, then I would try explaining to him that you will be entirely responsible for any damage you cause to the car. Can you afford that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. He can't afford the damage:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only hv a grand save up so far and I don't hv any parents' financial support</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much does it cost to do the Poor man's Type R if I do own a EM1 w/ B16A2 on it?
I only hv a grand save up so far and I don't hv any parents' financial support
GSR block ($400)
Sell my B16 block for ($???)
CTR pistons and rings ($200)
Get the head Ported and Polished ($???)
CTR cam ($???)
Intake manifold ($???)
used mugen header ($???)
LS crank ($???)

What else do I need?
oil pump? oil pan? fuel pump? water pump? timing belt?

Do anyone know the estimate price for the parts above?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

More than a grand put together man. You can peice together stuff....prices will vary. Try EBAY or forum classifieds, etc. Find your own prices. Do the research.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nick824 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I NEED HELP. I have a 2000 honda civic si. I have two choises to do. my dad will not allow me to get a turbo on it or something that will not make it as reliable. i know gay. the first chosie is that i get the h22 motor and drop it in the civic and sale the stock on. and that other choise i have to that i have aobut 2000. that i can do on the stock b16 motor that is it but i can not get a turbo. i want to get around 210 whp. i do not know which on is a better choose so hepl my out please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really hope you put more effort into your build than you do spelling and punctuation. Please stay in school!

 

That nitrous option is probably the biggest bang for the buck. People are always selling their kits in the classfieds.

If you build your engine right and take your time and research, then you should have a reliable engine. I built mine over the course of 5 weekends. I was boosted at 248whp for 17K miles, road raced my setup, autox, daily drive. I have since taken the kit off and have been NA since. 25K miles now and i'm still not burning oil.

OP...my build cost me about 1400 in parts, plus another $450-500 in tuning and I already had a turbo kit. This is on an '89 B16A in my 2000 Si.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeremyowns18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


godly advice right there.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That really is the best advice