JDM ITR 4-1 Header on 1st gen B16A problem.. (touching oil pan) safe?
So I just bought a JDM ITR 4-1 header for my 1st Gen B16 installed in my 90 CRX Si.
Pictures:


And I had already put in the traction bar and had the obd1 jumper harness wires, obd1 ecu, and 4-wire o2 sensor ready to go when I had noticed that the JDM ITR 4-1 header touches the side of the stock oil pan.
Anyone else have this problem??? Is it <U>safe</U> for it to touch the oil pan?
Any help would be nice.
-Jerel
Pictures:


And I had already put in the traction bar and had the obd1 jumper harness wires, obd1 ecu, and 4-wire o2 sensor ready to go when I had noticed that the JDM ITR 4-1 header touches the side of the stock oil pan.
Anyone else have this problem??? Is it <U>safe</U> for it to touch the oil pan?
Any help would be nice.
-Jerel
If it was the same spec as the OEM header it would not hit as the B18C has a taller deck height then the B16A. A TRUE JDM ITR header would sit LOWER on a B16. You have a knock off that is poorly designed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jerizzle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it <U>safe</U> for it to touch the oil pan?
Any help would be nice.
-Jerel</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would think not. Heat from the exhaust is going to transfer through the header to the oil pan, which in turn will heat the oil sitting in the pan. As the Castrol commercial said, "Heat is the enemy of engines". I would think that this heat transfer would cause the oil to break down faster than usual. If you plan on letting it run this way for any longer, shorten your oil change intervals, and maybe even bump up to a 10W-40 or an oil with a greater second number (i.e.- 40 in "10W-40").
Not sure as to whether there's a difference in B16A G1 and B16A G2 oil pans.
Any help would be nice.
-Jerel</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would think not. Heat from the exhaust is going to transfer through the header to the oil pan, which in turn will heat the oil sitting in the pan. As the Castrol commercial said, "Heat is the enemy of engines". I would think that this heat transfer would cause the oil to break down faster than usual. If you plan on letting it run this way for any longer, shorten your oil change intervals, and maybe even bump up to a 10W-40 or an oil with a greater second number (i.e.- 40 in "10W-40").
Not sure as to whether there's a difference in B16A G1 and B16A G2 oil pans.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigPlansNoMoney »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would think not. Heat from the exhaust is going to transfer through the header to the oil pan, which in turn will heat the oil sitting in the pan. As the Castrol commercial said, "Heat is the enemy of engines". I would think that this heat transfer would cause the oil to break down faster than usual. If you plan on letting it run this way for any longer, shorten your oil change intervals, and maybe even bump up to a 10W-40 or an oil with a greater second number (i.e.- 40 in "10W-40").
Not sure as to whether there's a difference in B16A G1 and B16A G2 oil pans.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would putting in a THICKER oil help to avoid the damage from heat transfer? Would you care to explain this? Thicker oil is not going to be the solution to his problem. Clearly he has a cheap *** header that is not properly designed. Clearly it should NOT hit the oil pan. Clearly its NOT something that is good. Clearly it shouldn't even take one post to realize this.
I would think not. Heat from the exhaust is going to transfer through the header to the oil pan, which in turn will heat the oil sitting in the pan. As the Castrol commercial said, "Heat is the enemy of engines". I would think that this heat transfer would cause the oil to break down faster than usual. If you plan on letting it run this way for any longer, shorten your oil change intervals, and maybe even bump up to a 10W-40 or an oil with a greater second number (i.e.- 40 in "10W-40").
Not sure as to whether there's a difference in B16A G1 and B16A G2 oil pans.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would putting in a THICKER oil help to avoid the damage from heat transfer? Would you care to explain this? Thicker oil is not going to be the solution to his problem. Clearly he has a cheap *** header that is not properly designed. Clearly it should NOT hit the oil pan. Clearly its NOT something that is good. Clearly it shouldn't even take one post to realize this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigPlansNoMoney »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would think not. Heat from the exhaust is going to transfer through the header to the oil pan, which in turn will heat the oil sitting in the pan. As the Castrol commercial said, "Heat is the enemy of engines". I would think that this heat transfer would cause the oil to break down faster than usual. If you plan on letting it run this way for any longer, shorten your oil change intervals, and maybe even bump up to a 10W-40 or an oil with a greater second number (i.e.- 40 in "10W-40").
Not sure as to whether there's a difference in B16A G1 and B16A G2 oil pans.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unbelieveable.
The danger is the header rubbing against the pan and breaking it . To quote Hybrid96EK, "Clearly".
Take the header to a shop or get a torch and bend it such that it clears the oil pan.
I would think not. Heat from the exhaust is going to transfer through the header to the oil pan, which in turn will heat the oil sitting in the pan. As the Castrol commercial said, "Heat is the enemy of engines". I would think that this heat transfer would cause the oil to break down faster than usual. If you plan on letting it run this way for any longer, shorten your oil change intervals, and maybe even bump up to a 10W-40 or an oil with a greater second number (i.e.- 40 in "10W-40").
Not sure as to whether there's a difference in B16A G1 and B16A G2 oil pans.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unbelieveable.
The danger is the header rubbing against the pan and breaking it . To quote Hybrid96EK, "Clearly".
Take the header to a shop or get a torch and bend it such that it clears the oil pan.
what about getting a b16a2 oil pan assembly, wouldnt that work?
and my header is not a Knock-Off..
"its just been jet-coated to dissipate heat."
(Quoted from the WingDC2R, who I had bought the header from)
and my header is not a Knock-Off..
"its just been jet-coated to dissipate heat."
(Quoted from the WingDC2R, who I had bought the header from)
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daaamn.. i got gipped.
what u guys think? should I sell this header and get another one?
or fix the problem by getting a b16a2 oil pan? (if that would work) im assuming from what some people say
what u guys think? should I sell this header and get another one?
or fix the problem by getting a b16a2 oil pan? (if that would work) im assuming from what some people say
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From: WESTCOAST,HAWAIIANSTYLE, PA KA LO LO
ITR headers sit lower @ least OEM ones do thats what i run and never had a problem...
You can try a gsr oil pan but then your gonna need the oil pick up and maybe some other stuff but the gsr oil pan is nice thats my next set up for my another b16 build i have...
You can try a gsr oil pan but then your gonna need the oil pick up and maybe some other stuff but the gsr oil pan is nice thats my next set up for my another b16 build i have...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MOE@Hyper16Valve »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR headers sit lower @ least OEM ones do thats what i run and never had a problem...
You can try a gsr oil pan but then your gonna need the oil pick up and maybe some other stuff but the gsr oil pan is nice thats my next set up for my another b16 build i have...</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I get the b16a2 oil pan, I wouldn't need another pick up right?
I actually found one from a friend, imma try it out tmw and tell u guys how it goes.
Thanks for the replies.
You can try a gsr oil pan but then your gonna need the oil pick up and maybe some other stuff but the gsr oil pan is nice thats my next set up for my another b16 build i have...</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I get the b16a2 oil pan, I wouldn't need another pick up right?
I actually found one from a friend, imma try it out tmw and tell u guys how it goes.
Thanks for the replies.
b16a2 oil pan = SUCCESS on clearance for ITR header.
im guessing since the fact that b16a2 is obd1.. the exhaust manifold is different so the oil pan has to be slightly different to clear.
im guessing since the fact that b16a2 is obd1.. the exhaust manifold is different so the oil pan has to be slightly different to clear.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Tune »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr/R oil pan sits LOWER than a regular b16 b18 pan... it has to accomodate for the 3 cap guirdle... remember?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish i could meet u in real life and buy you a beer..your so nice to nubs its unreal... i'd have pulled my hair out by now.
i wish i could meet u in real life and buy you a beer..your so nice to nubs its unreal... i'd have pulled my hair out by now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Tune »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a real OEM header will sit so low u can almost put your hand between the tubes and the pan...</TD></TR></TABLE>
What u stated is true, but not on a JDM B16a oil pan. I have the very same problem on my B16a with a OEM JDM type r header. I switch the oil pan to a 94 Integra LS and it clears good, now u can almost put ur hands between the tube and the pan.
-kevin
What u stated is true, but not on a JDM B16a oil pan. I have the very same problem on my B16a with a OEM JDM type r header. I switch the oil pan to a 94 Integra LS and it clears good, now u can almost put ur hands between the tube and the pan.
-kevin
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