<FONT COLOR="Blue">the purpose is to:</FONT>
1) put the filter in a better location (helps with oil changes)...
2) add to the amount of oil the motor can hold, 6qt vs. 5qt...
3) it will also help slightly with oil cooling...
4) it will also make a turbo build a lil easier for the oil supply...
5) it will also give a great spot for your oil pressure sender unit...
6) it will make adding a oil cooler allot asier as well...

<FONT COLOR="Blue">parts list from Jegs:</FONT>
-oil filter adapter-
1) #0771116-spin on adapter 20x1.5mm.... $17.99
1) #07711791-single filter mount 3/4x16.... $22.99
<FONT COLOR="Blue">-i used the push loc fittings and hose-</FONT>
2) #0555102220-#8 push loc blue hose 5'.... $14.99 each
4) #0555100109-1/2 NPT to #8.................. $5.49 each
2) #0555110052-#8 straight fitting............. $5.99 each
2) #0555110072-#8 90degree fitting........... $14.99 each
(i opted for a Fram HP1 filter)

 

awesome write up, I may consider doing this also. Did you also buy the hoses from Jegs or a local shop?

 

ya, except for the oil filter, everything was bought from jegs...

the part numbers are listed to make it a lil quicker for people...

 

I was going to buy the greddy one. This is freaking awsome

 

i still dont see the need to do taht

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhrequenC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i still dont see the need to do taht</TD></TR></TABLE> Agreed. Your placement doesn't make it really anymore convenient to do oil changes (since you stated that as being one of your major reasons for doing so.) Your lines are also a little close to possible danger being right there in the well unprotected. I've also heard horror stories about how it can cause an unsafe drop in oil pressure upon start up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchling37 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Agreed. Your placement doesn't make it really anymore convenient to do oil changes (since you stated that as being one of your major reasons for doing so.) Your lines are also a little close to possible danger being right there in the well unprotected. I've also heard horror stories about how it can cause an unsafe drop in oil pressure upon start up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its all good man...
the hoses are mounted firm there shouldn't be any problem with them...
as far as the pressure goes, i cant say weather it dropped a lil or not as my gauge took a **** a couple of weeks ago, i slid into a curb due to ice on the road and it stopped working... as soon as i get the replacement i will post up the numbers...

the filter is really easy to get to and remove now...

 

Your jegs part numbers do not work...

 

I have my filter remotely mounted as well as an external oil cooler. I also have an oil psi gauge. Oil psi builds up just as quickly as it did before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The G-Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your jegs part numbers do not work...</TD></TR></TABLE>

call them, they are the numbers from my reciept...

not sure why they would be different...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have my filter remotely mounted as well as an external oil cooler. I also have an oil psi gauge. Oil psi builds up just as quickly as it did before. </TD></TR></TABLE>
im sitting at 55-60 at idle and about 90psi at wot...

 

im only worried about the oil pump having to work harder than it has too, esp on a y8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im only worried about the oil pump having to work harder than it has too, esp on a y8</TD></TR></TABLE>

y8 oil pumps tend to fail

unless you do the oil pump mod to fix the problem, im not sure i would do it with that motor...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4Door Life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

y8 oil pumps tend to fail

unless you do the oil pump mod to fix the problem, im not sure i would do it with that motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>

give me a link to the fix and i will pay you! hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4Door Life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im sitting at 55-60 at idle and about 90psi at wot...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds about right. Thats start up/cold idle right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sounds about right. Thats start up/cold idle right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya, it dosnt go down much after its warmed up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4Door Life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ya, it dosnt go down much after its warmed up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, so even when your car is warmed up its still around 50?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok, so even when your car is warmed up its still around 50?! </TD></TR></TABLE>
ya...

 

Seems strange. Id try a different/new oil psi sender for your gauge. ALL of my motors ranging from a few B series to a few D series have always read from like 15-25psi when warm at idle.

 

i thought it was strange also...

im using auto meter pro comp gauges, i did put a different sender on just to see, it was about the same...

heres a pic, i have an arrow to show were the needle usually is below WOT...