This car started out life as a 1991 Civic CX that ran a 18.6 second 1/4 mile. Since then it has received 8 (maybe more) transmissions and at least 6 different engines or combinations of engines. Last year it ran 15.3 with an Si trans and a D16Z6 engine. Not that this car is built for drag though, I just think its a good way of seeing how much I have improved the actual car's power.

Right now it has a D16Z6 with an Si transmission. Centerforce clutch, fidenza flywheel. I have lowered it on Eibach sportline springs, AGX adjustable struts. I put in front and rear stock swaybars from an Si. EBC greenstuff pads, new rear brakes. Stainless brake lines. Homemade polyurethane mounts. B&M short shifter and bushings. Energy Suspension poly bushings (most of them are done anyways) This year I ran on a used set of Hankook Z2000 185/60R13 "R" tires on Appliance 13X6.5" aluminum wheels. I have the usual Intake header and exhaust. I am using a flo~Pro muffler for a camaro and dual tips cause I think it looks cool.



That is my car in a nutshell. ANyways this year I want to be more competitive, but my budget doesn't exist because I bought a house and got married. I needed my car faster and I didnt have the money for a swap. So how do I go faster? Well I need to be lighter and do it for free.





Step 1. Remove your interior and scrape up all the sound deadening material. I think it was about 5 lbs too. Next was to remove my bumpers and take out hte rebar/ foam and make them as light as possible.




I built just some simple "L" brackets to hold the bumper up and used the factory four screws to hold it in place. I also started taking as many bolts out as possible. I mean everything that could be held on with less bolts is. I am up over 5lbs in bolts alone. Keep in mind this car is no longer my daily driver so I don't need to worry about crashing on the highway.

I cut out the hood skeleton and took out the hinges, latches, and all cables. I used 4 Honda bolts and nuts to make my own hoodpins to hold it down as well.




I wanted to go extreme so I decided to cut out my spare tire well and just put in a very thin sheet of metal. OK so before any of you go and do this, please, REMOVE YOUR FUEL TANK FIRST!!!!!!! I was extremely lucky and only nicked my tank while cutting it out and didnt blow up! On another note, I dont think the well weighs more then 5lbs and it took a long time to cut out and drill all the spot welds out to remove it. But I did it and there is no turning back now.




I wanted the car as stiff as possible so I have been saving up for most of the winter for this year's season and I have enough for a roll bar set up. So I had to prep the areas for welding plates on. By doing the prep work i am saving myself a pile on labour costs.



I am also getting a new seat mount built which i am sure will be much better / safer then the one I built. This year we are in talks to get a sponsor so hopefully we can get some new tires or at least cover some travel expenses.

 

Awesome beateracer project! But if you are getting SO **** about the weight savings.......<U>GET RID OF THAT DUAL EXHAUST!!!</U>

 

A straight back pipe with a small fart can on it will weigh ALOT less...

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

Those are both cheap as **** since you are on a budget.

 

ah yes my dual exhaust will be getting the old heave ho, especially as I have cut out part of the floor where it hangs onto. I will running probably no muffler as I still have a cat and resonator, or I will remove those and just run a smaller muffler tucked up high and will exit where the license plate would be.

 

I like your hood with the japanese sun

 

hahaha...I painted it for last Auto X season. One of the guys I work with has an 86 GTS Corolla and we compete ( I am winning btw) so I thought I would "war paint" my car for battle!

 

This is my "garage" for most of the year. The shop I work at is 30 minute drive from my house so its a pain to drive out there for just a few hours of work.



here was a quick VC idea I had...it has since been stripped and I will be just going back to wrinkle black I think

 

Also I ordered a Moroso battery box and switch so I can relocate my battery to the rear and still be legal if I want to run on our NHRA track.

The car is booked in to be caged in 5 - 7 weeks. Before then I will have my traction bar done and installed and hopefully have finished installing the rest of my poly bushings.

 

wat kinda suspension upgrades have u done to this car? i wanna do something like that with my car. i see alot of cars out there have some massive body roll, is that beacuse of the sharp turn or are they running stock springs or something?

 

KYB AGX 4 way struts
Eibach sportline springs
Energy Suspension bushings
Factory Si front and rear sway bars (mine had none) with poly bushings
and some used 185/60R13 Hankook Z2000 R tires

soon I will have a roll bar installed.

 

Hows the bumper fitment with just the L brackets supporting it ?

BTW I like what your doing here.

 

Keep it parked in the snow, mother nature will help with weight saving.

Looks like your using it to its full potential

 

the bumper actually fits tighter to the rest of the body with the L brackets. I have them set high so the bumper is quite tight. I still use the screws on the ends (in the wheel wells) to hold it in place as well

These are pics with the bumpers on with the L brackets.



Yes the rust sucks on the rear. I do have 1/4 panels to order to fix that, but it is at the bottom of my list right now. Id rather have a functional car first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biggee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes the rust sucks on the rear. I do have 1/4 panels to order to fix that, but it is at the bottom of my list right now. Id rather have a functional car first.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rust = weight reduction.

 

Looks good.
Pm'd.

 

this looks very interesting. in for more

 

Interesting build you are doing here, however is it worth it to cut the floor of the car to loose 5 lbs?

 

the short answer is no. It took waaaay too long to cut out the floor and drill out the spot welds, and I should have also dropped my fuel tank while I was at it. BUUUT I wanted to have my exhaust up high so it wouldn't bottom out as often and I wanted it to exit in the centre of the bumper up high. That is more aesthetic then anything. Also I now will have an easy access to the fuel pump without dropping the tank.

But would I do it again? Probably not.

 

freaking nuts I love it!

This kinda stuff keeps faith in me and Hondas

 

What class are you running?

EP?

 

ive wanted to do something similar to the "L bracket bumper suport" but because i will be driving my car on a regular basis... i have decided against it... becuase of safty reasons... but i have thought of that for weight reduction... but at teh same time.. i wanna do it anyway.. even if its not safe.. because in my town.. theres mostly lifted trucks anyway.. and if i get hit by one of them my bumper suport isint gonna make a damn bit of difference anyway so.. i dunno.. but anyway nice build..

im still trying to find some "legal" forms of racing here... but have come up empty handed

 

I like what you have done so far, keep up the good work.

 

Well last year (in Canada) I was running in the C-mod class because of the engine swap. BTW worst engine swap to jump into a mod class ever!

This year we have adopted the SCCA car classing and I am having a hard time figuring out what class I am in.


As for the bumper safety I wouldn't have done it if it were still a daily driver or if I wanted to door to door race because of the safety factor

 

I bet you are E-Prepared. You can download the "unofficial" 2008 rule book off http://www.scca.org.

http://scca.org/documents/Solo...2.pdf - page 211

 

WOW straight function. i love it!!!