Ls swap
Just use your original '88 CRX harness and modify it to work with the Integra motor's electronics. To connect the ecu, you will need a obd1 conversion, either an adapter harness or re-pin the ecu pins.
I have to go right now but will post a step by step procedure later if you like. (maybe someone else will post it).
It's not too hard to do.
Rob R.
I have to go right now but will post a step by step procedure later if you like. (maybe someone else will post it).
It's not too hard to do.
Rob R.
I put a 97 LS motor on my 88 DX hatch...I figure it would be the same set up as yours...I ran it obd0 and used pr4 ecu, 91 LS distributor and injector plugs. converted from dpfi to mpfi...step by step procedure available at these sites... http://www.hasport.com and http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/index.html
Here is the procedure for the under hood wiring needed for a 2nd Gen. CRX Si to obd1 motor. Written by StorminMatt:
"There are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harness rather than trying to make the 1992-1995 harness work. The changes are as follows:
1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforeward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harness as on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harness into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harness. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harness. The exception is the fatter wire for the ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harness and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harness. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.
2. Change and reloacte the thermoswitch plug. The thermoswitch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has twqo wires going to it rather than one. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harness and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harness. On the 1992-1995 harness, this wire is connected to a green and black wire.
3. Change injector plugs and eliminate the resistor. This is fairly straightforeward if you have an HF/SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributer. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!
5. Add the four wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harness for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harness. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.
7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge valve. You may be able to actually extend the MAP sensor to the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. You can also use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it)."
__________________________________________________ ________________
Here is the ECU pin guide. I bought a conversion harness and didn't attempt to do the re-pinning myself. Looks like a bit of work but after doing my swap, it does not look hard. Just pull the pin out of the CRX plug and stick it in the Integra plug in the order listed.
"A number of people have asked me how to change the 1988-1991 ECU plugs to 1992-1995 plugs in order to use a 1992-1995 ECU for any one of a number of applications (SOHC VTEC, 2G B16A, 1992+ B18A/B18B, B17A, B18C, etc.). I figured it would be best to just make one post with this information rather than having to email everybody separately with this information. There are a couple of things to remember here. I personally prefer the numbering system whereby the pins are numbered across rather than the zig-zag system used by Honda. But I realize alot of people may prefer or are used to the zig-zag system. So for each pin (on each plug style), I list two locations for the same pin. The first is given by numbering across. The second (in parenthesis) is by the zig-zag numbering (I hope it is correct). In case I made any errors in conversion AND to make the process of changing the plugs over more goof proof, I also give the color of the wire on the 1992-1995 plug and 1988-1991 plug for the given pins. This should give you a better idea of whether you are connecting the wires together correctly. Also, the first set of pin numbers and wire colors are all on the 1992-1995 plugs and the second, the 1988-1991 plugs.
A plug (1992-1995 plug)
A1 (A1) ----> A1 (A1)
brn --------> brn
A2 (A3) ----> A2 (A3)
red --------> red
A3 (A5) ----> A3 (A5)
lt. blu ----> lt. blu
A4 (A7) ----> A14 (A12)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A5 (A9) ----> A5 (A11)
grn/wht ----> blu/yel
A7 (A13) ---> B13 (B6)
grn/org ----> grn/org
A8 (A15) ---> B2 (D3)
blk/red ----> yel
A11 (A21) --> B8 (B15)
red/grn ----> wht
A12 (A23) --> A9 (A2)
blk --------> blk
A13 (A25) --> A6 (A13)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
A14 (A2) ---> A4 (A7)
yel --------> yel
A15 (A4) ---> (VTEC)
org/wht ----> (your choice)
A16 (A6) ---> (O2S heater)
org/blk ----> (your choice)
A17 (A8) ---> A15 (A14)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A19 (A12) --> B12 (B4)
yel/grn ----> yel/grn
A21 (A16) --> B3 (B5)
wht/yel ----> wht/yel
A23 (A20) --> A11 (A6)
red --------> grn
A24 (A22) --> B9 (B17)
red/grn --------> wht
A25 (A24) --> A10 (A4)
blk --------> blk
A26 (A26) --> A17 (A18)
blk/red ----> blk/red
B Plug (1992-1995 plug)
B1 (B1) ----> A7 (A15)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
B3 (B5) ----> B14 (B8)
blu/red ----> blu/red
B5 (B9) ----> B7 (B13)
blu/wht ----> blu/wht
B6 (B11) ---> B15 (B10) **
org --------> org
B7 (B13) ---> C2 (C3) **
org/blu ----> org/blu
B8 (B15) ---> C1 (C1) **
blu/grn ----> blu/grn
B9 (B2) ----> A16 (A16)
brn/blk ----> brn/blk
B13 (B10) --> B18 (B16)
yel/blu ----> yel/red
B14 (B12) --> B16 (B12) **
wht --------> wht
B15 (B14) --> C10 (C4) **
wht/blu ----> wht/blu
B16 (B16) --> C9 (C2) **
blu/yel ----> blu/yel
D Plug (1992-1995 Plug - NO C plug on 1992-1995 Plugs)
D1 (D1) ----> B1 (B1)
wht/blu ----> wht/grn
D2 (D3) ----> (Knock Sensor)
red/blu ----> (your choice shielded wire)
D5 (D9) ----> B17 (B14)
pnk --------> blu
D6 (D11) ---> C4 (C7)
red/blu ----> red/blu
D7 (D13) ---> C11 (C6)
red/wht ----> red/wht
D8 (D15) ---> C3 (C5)
red/yel ----> red/yel
D9 (D17) ---> C6 (C11)
wht --------> wht
D10 (D19) --> C8 (C15)
yel/grn ----> yel/red
D11 (D21) --> C15 (C14)
grn/blu ----> grn/wht
D12 (D2) ---> C13 (C10)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
D13 (D4) ---> B20 (B20)
brn --------> brn
D14 (D6) ---> (VTEC Pressure Switch)
org/blu ----> (your choice)
D16 (D10) --> B10 (B19)
grn/red ----> grn/red
D18 (D14) --> C16 (C16)
wht --------> wht
D21 (D20) --> C7 (C13)
yel/wht ----> yel/wht
D22 (D22) --> C14 (C12)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
The pins marked ** connect to the distributer sensors (crank angle, TDC, and CYP). The reason I marked these is that while 1988-1991 and 1992-1995 cars both use the same color wires collectively for these sensors (org, org/blu, wht, wht/blu, blu/grn, blu/yel), wires of a given color do NOT necessarily connect to the same sensors in the 1992-1995 cars as in 1988-1991 cars. So if you check the Hasport pinout, the connections I gave will be incorrect. However, it is actually easier to just match up like colors. If you do this, just remember to match the proper colors on the distributer plug as well. In other words, the org wire on the 1988-1991 engine harness goes into the same spot on the 1992-1995 distributer plug that the org wire went to on the 1992-1995 dash harness.
Just don't confuse the fat white wire with this thin white wire on the distributer plug of the 1988-1991 engine harness. The fat white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the fat yel/grn wire on the 1992-1995 harness went (on the 1992-1995 distributer plug). But the thin white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the thin white wire on the 1992-1995 harness was.
There is one other thing of considerable importance that anyone should know who is doing a OBDI conversion with an Integra motor. Alot of the wire colors are different from the 1992-1995 Civic. But from what I have heard, the pinout is identical. So the connections should be the same even if the colors are not.
Speaking of other cars, keep in mind that I made this chart for a USDM B16A swap. Other engines may not have all the wires listed (a B18A/B18B will have no VTEC, VTEC pressure switch, or knock sensor) or may have more (A B18C will have IAB control)."
__________________________________________________ _______________
Good luck and post if you have any questions.
Rob R.
"There are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harness rather than trying to make the 1992-1995 harness work. The changes are as follows:
1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforeward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harness as on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harness into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harness. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harness. The exception is the fatter wire for the ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harness and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harness. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.
2. Change and reloacte the thermoswitch plug. The thermoswitch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has twqo wires going to it rather than one. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harness and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harness. On the 1992-1995 harness, this wire is connected to a green and black wire.
3. Change injector plugs and eliminate the resistor. This is fairly straightforeward if you have an HF/SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributer. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!
5. Add the four wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harness for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harness. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.
7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge valve. You may be able to actually extend the MAP sensor to the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. You can also use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it)."
__________________________________________________ ________________
Here is the ECU pin guide. I bought a conversion harness and didn't attempt to do the re-pinning myself. Looks like a bit of work but after doing my swap, it does not look hard. Just pull the pin out of the CRX plug and stick it in the Integra plug in the order listed.
"A number of people have asked me how to change the 1988-1991 ECU plugs to 1992-1995 plugs in order to use a 1992-1995 ECU for any one of a number of applications (SOHC VTEC, 2G B16A, 1992+ B18A/B18B, B17A, B18C, etc.). I figured it would be best to just make one post with this information rather than having to email everybody separately with this information. There are a couple of things to remember here. I personally prefer the numbering system whereby the pins are numbered across rather than the zig-zag system used by Honda. But I realize alot of people may prefer or are used to the zig-zag system. So for each pin (on each plug style), I list two locations for the same pin. The first is given by numbering across. The second (in parenthesis) is by the zig-zag numbering (I hope it is correct). In case I made any errors in conversion AND to make the process of changing the plugs over more goof proof, I also give the color of the wire on the 1992-1995 plug and 1988-1991 plug for the given pins. This should give you a better idea of whether you are connecting the wires together correctly. Also, the first set of pin numbers and wire colors are all on the 1992-1995 plugs and the second, the 1988-1991 plugs.
A plug (1992-1995 plug)
A1 (A1) ----> A1 (A1)
brn --------> brn
A2 (A3) ----> A2 (A3)
red --------> red
A3 (A5) ----> A3 (A5)
lt. blu ----> lt. blu
A4 (A7) ----> A14 (A12)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A5 (A9) ----> A5 (A11)
grn/wht ----> blu/yel
A7 (A13) ---> B13 (B6)
grn/org ----> grn/org
A8 (A15) ---> B2 (D3)
blk/red ----> yel
A11 (A21) --> B8 (B15)
red/grn ----> wht
A12 (A23) --> A9 (A2)
blk --------> blk
A13 (A25) --> A6 (A13)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
A14 (A2) ---> A4 (A7)
yel --------> yel
A15 (A4) ---> (VTEC)
org/wht ----> (your choice)
A16 (A6) ---> (O2S heater)
org/blk ----> (your choice)
A17 (A8) ---> A15 (A14)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A19 (A12) --> B12 (B4)
yel/grn ----> yel/grn
A21 (A16) --> B3 (B5)
wht/yel ----> wht/yel
A23 (A20) --> A11 (A6)
red --------> grn
A24 (A22) --> B9 (B17)
red/grn --------> wht
A25 (A24) --> A10 (A4)
blk --------> blk
A26 (A26) --> A17 (A18)
blk/red ----> blk/red
B Plug (1992-1995 plug)
B1 (B1) ----> A7 (A15)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
B3 (B5) ----> B14 (B8)
blu/red ----> blu/red
B5 (B9) ----> B7 (B13)
blu/wht ----> blu/wht
B6 (B11) ---> B15 (B10) **
org --------> org
B7 (B13) ---> C2 (C3) **
org/blu ----> org/blu
B8 (B15) ---> C1 (C1) **
blu/grn ----> blu/grn
B9 (B2) ----> A16 (A16)
brn/blk ----> brn/blk
B13 (B10) --> B18 (B16)
yel/blu ----> yel/red
B14 (B12) --> B16 (B12) **
wht --------> wht
B15 (B14) --> C10 (C4) **
wht/blu ----> wht/blu
B16 (B16) --> C9 (C2) **
blu/yel ----> blu/yel
D Plug (1992-1995 Plug - NO C plug on 1992-1995 Plugs)
D1 (D1) ----> B1 (B1)
wht/blu ----> wht/grn
D2 (D3) ----> (Knock Sensor)
red/blu ----> (your choice shielded wire)
D5 (D9) ----> B17 (B14)
pnk --------> blu
D6 (D11) ---> C4 (C7)
red/blu ----> red/blu
D7 (D13) ---> C11 (C6)
red/wht ----> red/wht
D8 (D15) ---> C3 (C5)
red/yel ----> red/yel
D9 (D17) ---> C6 (C11)
wht --------> wht
D10 (D19) --> C8 (C15)
yel/grn ----> yel/red
D11 (D21) --> C15 (C14)
grn/blu ----> grn/wht
D12 (D2) ---> C13 (C10)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
D13 (D4) ---> B20 (B20)
brn --------> brn
D14 (D6) ---> (VTEC Pressure Switch)
org/blu ----> (your choice)
D16 (D10) --> B10 (B19)
grn/red ----> grn/red
D18 (D14) --> C16 (C16)
wht --------> wht
D21 (D20) --> C7 (C13)
yel/wht ----> yel/wht
D22 (D22) --> C14 (C12)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
The pins marked ** connect to the distributer sensors (crank angle, TDC, and CYP). The reason I marked these is that while 1988-1991 and 1992-1995 cars both use the same color wires collectively for these sensors (org, org/blu, wht, wht/blu, blu/grn, blu/yel), wires of a given color do NOT necessarily connect to the same sensors in the 1992-1995 cars as in 1988-1991 cars. So if you check the Hasport pinout, the connections I gave will be incorrect. However, it is actually easier to just match up like colors. If you do this, just remember to match the proper colors on the distributer plug as well. In other words, the org wire on the 1988-1991 engine harness goes into the same spot on the 1992-1995 distributer plug that the org wire went to on the 1992-1995 dash harness.
Just don't confuse the fat white wire with this thin white wire on the distributer plug of the 1988-1991 engine harness. The fat white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the fat yel/grn wire on the 1992-1995 harness went (on the 1992-1995 distributer plug). But the thin white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the thin white wire on the 1992-1995 harness was.
There is one other thing of considerable importance that anyone should know who is doing a OBDI conversion with an Integra motor. Alot of the wire colors are different from the 1992-1995 Civic. But from what I have heard, the pinout is identical. So the connections should be the same even if the colors are not.
Speaking of other cars, keep in mind that I made this chart for a USDM B16A swap. Other engines may not have all the wires listed (a B18A/B18B will have no VTEC, VTEC pressure switch, or knock sensor) or may have more (A B18C will have IAB control)."
__________________________________________________ _______________
Good luck and post if you have any questions.
Rob R.
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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