Thinkin about doin a LS/VTEC engine be4 I can actually save up for the K20A swap
I own a 99 Si and already have a B16A2 in it
I heard it's pretty cheap to do LS/VTEC since I have a VTEC head already

Here comes the questions
What makes my B16 different or weaker compared to B18 engine
Displacement ! Is the B18 block longer than the B16 block
If not, then why can't I just switch B18B crankshaft
rod ratio doesn't match, then I can just get the B18B rod
Then I don't even hv to swap a B18 block
and my engine is basiclly equal to the B18, isn't it ?
I don't even hv to do the oil line or anything

My question might be aske so many times
but idk....just wanna build an engine w/ the least money
just giv me an awswer if u want...
Thx


Modified by joe.wong321 at 1:23 AM 3/6/2008

 

cheap and fast doesnt mix

 

I'm just wonderin if my idea does the job exactly just like the LS/vtec swap at the first step
cos ppl doin the LS/vtec normally owns a non-vtec engine at first
For the head work and block will be the later steps
Thx

 

just stick with your b16a and tune it, no need to go out of your way to expletive around with an LS head.

 

ls head has nothing to do witha ls/vtec but for your question, no u have to use the whole ls block. yes its a different block. if its built right u will definitly notice a difference. ls vtecs kick ***. alot of people are just scared of them. they are not the easiest build. but a good ls block can be bought for less than 200 bucks and being as though u already have a b16 u basically could do it for like 300-400. wich isnt ****. people spend hundreds of dollars trying to gain 30 hp. the b16 is a good motor but bigger is better. id go for it if i were u

 

Just read way more different threads, did a lot more research
Kinda leanin toward Poor Man's Type R
Here is my analysis below

<U>B16A2 from my stock 99 Si</U>160 hp stock
DOHC VTEC already
VTEC head equal to ITR VTEC head unlike the GSR's B18C1
High RPM power
Good transmission

Cons
113ft/lbs torque (very little more than a D16z6 stock)
Under 4k or so it feels just like a D16

################################################## #

<U>Swap option 1: B16B from CTR</U>
Pros
185 hp compared to my 160hp

Cons
Expensive- costs $3500 for for lower than ITR performance
Very little torque still

################################################## ###

<U>Swap option 2: B18C1 USDM GSR</U>

Pros
Good Hp and TQ numbers (170, 121 ft/lbs respectively)
DOHC VTEC
Tons of potential
High revving

Cons
Expensive - cost $3000, still pricy 4 me 4 not that much power gain
Slighty longer tranny than the ITR and B16

################################################## ###

Swap option 3: B18C / B18C5 from JDM or USDM ITR

Pros
GREAT HP and TQ numbers (195 and 134 ft/lbs)
High revving
Hand built motor from Honda
Optional factory LSD
Best transmission for a B series from the factory
Red valve cover

Cons
EXPENSIVE - cost $4500 still, I'll just save more 4 my dream engine K20A

################################################## ###

<U>Best Bang 4 Buck option for me: Poor man's Type R</U>

Pros
I have VTEC head equal to ITR VTEC head unlike the GSR's B18C1
B18C1 block only cost me like...$500
By just swap the block I can still drive if I don't hv the money 4 other parts like CTR pistons at one time
No need to worry about the oil line since it's VTEC head w/ VTEC block
Possible to put LS crank 4 the same stroke doin LS/VTEC
Better platform to start, equal to ITR and hv the potential to be better than ITR

Con:
I probably do it by myself so I might not hv a car to drive around 4 a while

################################################## ##

<U>Might be cheaper but more work option: LS/vtec</U>

Pros: Even cheaper than gettin a GSR block
Longer stroke

Cons:
not a direct Plug and Play
got to do oil line
supposed to be a non-VTEC block

 

Are there all I'll need?
B18C1 GSR short block ($400)
CTR or ITR Piston Kit w/ Ring Set Std Size($180) Which is better? ITR or CTR, high C/R?
Head Port and Polished ($???) can I DIY ?
valvetrain, and cams ($???)
What else ?

 

gsr block

 

Will that change anything if I just switch the B16A2 block to a GSR block w/o any other upgrade ?
cos I only hv the money for the block right now...
thx

 

just take your time and do it when you have money in hand, theres no reason to rush any type of swap or build, you rush and mistakes happen... just take it easy, get everything you need then do the swap/ build

 

first off, thx for the useful reply
I've been doin research lately
Are there any way to skip some of the poor man type r parts
so once the engine is done, it's been already better than Type R spec engine
Like the GSR block is a must as platform
LS crankshaft sounds like wt I want (89mm!)
Type r oil pump, water pump looks like a must
But the pistons and rods
maybe the camshaft and the valve spring, valvetrain....
I just don't wanna end up w/ a exact Type R engine then got to sell the OEM parts and get better aftermarket parts later on
I'm workin my *** off and savin up for the summer

P.S. if that possible to put oversized CTR pistons in the GSR blcok w/o any sleeved?
I don't wanna shave any OEM parts and loss the OEM reliability !!
thx

 

so techniclly,
by replacing the B16A2 block to B18c1 GSR blcok
switchin from GSR 87mm crank to LS 89mm crank
It's like usin TODA 1800cc B16A Stroker Kit which cost $2400
but way way way cheaper and I got the OEM reliability too
right?

BTW, I hv no idea of bore out the block and sleeved block means?
bore out block means make the bore of the block larger, correct?
then wt is sleeve block then?
And how a bored block fit w/ a normal VTEC head since they hv different size of bore now ??

Thx




Modified by joe.wong321 at 2:48 PM 3/5/2008

 

How much does it cost to do the Poor man's Type R if I do own a EM1 w/ B16A2 on it?
I only hv a grand save up so far and I don't hv any parents' financial support
GSR block ($400)
Sell my B16 block for ($???)
CTR pistons and rings ($200)
Get the head Ported and Polished ($???)
CTR cam ($???)
Intake manifold ($???)
used mugen header ($???)
LS crank ($???)
What else do I need?
oil pump? oil pan? fuel pump? water pump? timing belt?

Do anyone know the estimate price for the parts above?

 

looks like you are all new to this and what I would do if I was you is boost the b16 and not mess around with changing out the engine. Putting a turbo is a lot easier than changing out all the other stuff that you want to do and it will be a lot faster. You already have a motor that has a lot of potential that motor loves to be boosted.

Also the list of engine you posted it shows the engine hp which is still a respectable number but in reality the whp is what really matters, whp usually is typically 15% less than hp once it goes through the drivetrain and to the tires so whp is actually less than engine hp due to all of that. I have a friend that has an si w/ turbo b16 I belive that was running 210 whp so being it's that much at the wheels that is a respectable number imo. I think he is actually getting more now that he's been dyno'd and tuned.

 

I just wanna make my engine base on the ITR's one and eventually make it a little better than that
ITR is rewarded as the best front wheel drive car still in 2006
It's fun to drive but definately not the fastest ever
This is what I want...ultimate handling w/ reasonable amount of power
itr B18c 198hp 15% power loss = 170 whp =fun car to drive
plus I want to build a torque base car (accelareate) more than hp-base car (top speed)
boost is an option but it's the last or the ultimate

Just wanna catch up or faster than my friends' 03 Sentra SE-R, 96 Eclipse RS, 93 bimmer w/ m3, 95 civic w/ B16A, 99 prelude base, 97 integra GSR......lol

I do love my 99 Si, it's the most balanced car I ever drive so far, great gasmilage, nice back room and trunk for road trip, hv some fun power when I want to show off....
Every single of my friends above loves my Si