I've seen one post while searching that just says to plug them. Them being the fitting on the head and the one on the thermo housing. That would make sense to me because essentially if you have the heater off, they are plugged because the valve is closed.

What my real question is,
If I do plug them, does it create a hot spot in the head because I plugged it's feed??

I doubt it but I figured I'd ask because I'm no pro on coolent flo through motors.
Thanks

 

just loop the line, instead of having it run through the core.

 

Indeed, that will be my back up plan. If I can just plug both of them I'd rather do that though. It's just one more hose that can rupture and ruin a track day.
As long as it doesn't affect the cooling of the motor that is.

 

I just looped the lines. I was going to plug them but you could only plug the one on the head cleanly with AN fittings and a Cap... the other one you'd have to weld it or cut some hose and plug that and I didn't feel like going through all that so I just looped it. Should be fine. I've read the posts about the people capping them and they ahve been fine too.

I'm wondering though, do our(90-93 integra) radiators need to have the air be bled out when you refill the coolant? I've checked the helms and there's no sign of anything like that. Just wondering.

 

just grab 2 of these and clamp them down, they're 5/8" rubber bypass caps, you can get them at kragen/autozone/pep boys, or wherever they sell auto parts

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

or you can loop it but then you'll have the sight of an ugly hose =P, i like to just cap it and get rid of extra hoses

 

I'd rather cap it and keep it clean too as long as there is no downside to cooling. Sounds like I'm shopping tomorrow for a 5/8 plug and a threaded one for the head. Thanks again guys.

 

its smarter to loop them

any time there is a dead end in the cooling system you run the risk of possibly trapping fluid then boiling it. and boiling it = bad

just loop them and never worry about it again. its a racecar, screw cleanliness haha

function > fashion

 

loop
i've seen boosted cars blow plugs out. i dont know your set-up, but like other have said, looping it is safer.

 

I see your point about flow, but in this situation isn't having a closed heater core valve the same as just plugging it? Just next to the outlet I wish to plug on the head, is the outlet for the coolent to leave the head and enter the radiator. Wouldn't that provide enough flow in that area of the head?

The other end (by thermostat) is the inlet, so I don't see a problem plugging there.

 

My car is a mildly build NA b16a.

It's only use is for road racing. So I guess better safe than sorry is what all you guys agree on. Makes sense to me.
Thanks for all the input you guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brokenojoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I see your point about flow, but in this situation isn't having a closed heater core valve the same as just plugging it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have a valid point. I'm not sure if you're correct or not, but...most of the guys I know run with their heat turned on at least a little bit to help with cooling. That's what I was always told to do and what I have always practiced.

 

I have a dual core full size aluminum radiator and an oil cooler. My dad also said to keep the heater core, but I'm going to run it this summer without and see what the temps get to.

Thanks again guys.

 

Do you need the heater core for cold driving in NM? That and defrosting (rain) is really all its good for. Might as well save some weight if you can.

 

A daily driver here definitely needs a heater. Were at 6,500ft where I live. This only gets used for racing during the warmer months though. I sure will miss the window defroster if it fogs up during rain though. Too late now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brokenojoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I sure will miss the window defroster if it fogs up during rain though. Too late now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I took my comp license in an accord with no blower, i had a stick with a ragg ziptied to it so i could reach the windshield to wipe it. It got alittle hairy at times. I ended up winning the race on sunday


thanks Karl for getting me into this big hole i cant get out of

 

I had those outlets plugged on my racecar (B18A1) and it had a nasty habit of overheating while sitting still and idling (like on grid). As soon as I looped that line, problem solved. With the fluidyne and no fan, it can sit and idle all day and never see over 180*.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlyZlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had those outlets plugged on my racecar (B18A1) and it had a nasty habit of overheating while sitting still and idling (like on grid). As soon as I looped that line, problem solved. With the fluidyne and no fan, it can sit and idle all day and never see over 180*.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brokenojoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I see your point about flow, but in this situation isn't having a closed heater core valve the same as just plugging it?</TD></TR></TABLE>


just thought about this yesterday.

I am pretty sure that even when you close the valve for heater core, it isn't closed, there still is flow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just thought about this yesterday.

I am pretty sure that even when you close the valve for heater core, it isn't closed, there still is flow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know for sure, but that was my guess as well. I think the coolant is always flowing through the heater core whether you're passing air over it or not.

 

Another looped user here. Cheap and effective.

 

I'm at autozone right now picking up some straight 5/8 to give it the old loop de loop.

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead to see if you racers are removing all of the a/c and heater components or keeping everything inside to be able to defrost the window when it fogs up in the rain?

 

If you are racing in colder climates some actually leave them in. Not many though!
But there have been posts before of drivers using a squeege during a race
Rain X does help some.

 

I've been going through a lot of projects w/ my car this winter/spring and I removed the A/C core but kept the heater core for defrost... and in Michigan if I want to take the car out when it's not hot outside or in the evening... I can still not freeze.

Personally I would keep the heater core until you are at a point in competition where you have ran out of ways to meet minimum weight (cost effectively).... for defrost purposes... if in the wet you have one miscue because of fog/defogging w/ a stick... you'll be slower than the couple pounds saved.

btw thanks for re-posting this and me reading the whole damn thing without realizing it was 4years old :doh: