okay, it's a b18b1 block, i torqued the Main caps to 22lbs. and then 56lbs. checked the clearence with plasti gauge and it's between .0015-.0017, lubed everything up and torque it back to the same spec, now the crank is hard to turn, it get's stuck when u are trying to turn, but after it turns, it'll rotate smooth, but if u leave it for couple of seconds, it does the same thing, it won't turn unless u break it loose... any thought on this???

 

is the hole motor assembled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18avtec(A!!M0TOR) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the hole motor assembled.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it's just the crank that was put in, no pistons or rods put in yet. can it be the thrust washers holding it back?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18avtec(A!!M0TOR) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the hole motor assembled.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2. your head isn't attached, right?

*edit* nevermind, you just replied.

 

did u check the end play ,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AccordSleeperZzZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

X2. your head isn't attached, right?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
no this is just the begining of assembling the short block,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18avtec(A!!M0TOR) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u check the end play , </TD></TR></TABLE>
no i have not check the cranks end paly yet. i don't have the tools to do that. can that cause the crank to do this?

 

See if it will rotate without the thrust washers in place. You have the TQ specs correct, so i didnt bother PM'ing you back. Is it a stock crank?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">See if it will rotate without the thrust washers in place. You have the TQ specs correct, so i didnt bother PM'ing you back. Is it a stock crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i will try it without the washers, Todd also told me to tighten the mains one at a time, starting at the middle and working outwards until the crank starts to bind. im gonna try both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Is it a stock crank? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes stock 89mm crank

 

Good advice from Todd. That will help isolate a problem with the bearings/caps if it is indeed that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good advice from Todd. That will help isolate a problem with the bearings/caps if it is indeed that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
okay, tryed what todd told me, binds a little at main cap #1 and alot on #4 and #5. also tryed it without the washers, it still binds. i also replaced main cap #4 with another one from my other B18b block, it binds even more. Can this be oil Clearance too tight?? what can i do too get rid of this binding??

 

if you're on OEM bearings, get different color-coded bearings, maybe?

 

If the clearance is truly between .0015-.0017, it should not be binding. However, just because its .0015 90 degrees to the parting line doesnt mean the hole is oval. You may need to have the block line honed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the clearance is truly between .0015-.0017, it should not be binding. However, just because its .0015 90 degrees to the parting line doesnt mean the hole is oval. You may need to have the block line honed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
wel im not 100% sure that the clearance is truly .0015-.0017 because it's plasti-gauge im using to check for the clearances, plus this is on ACL std. bearings. should i take the crank and block in for inspection?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wel im not 100% sure that the clearance is truly .0015-.0017 because it's plasti-gauge im using to check for the clearances, plus this is on ACL std. bearings. should i take the crank and block in for inspection?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you follow the proper steps plastigauge will get you very close. If the crank wont spin freely, youre going to have to do something if you cant figure it out on your own. There is no shame in taking it to a qualified professional.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wel im not 100% sure that the clearance is truly .0015-.0017 because it's plasti-gauge im using to check for the clearances, plus this is on ACL std. bearings. should i take the crank and block in for inspection?</TD></TR></TABLE>

how many times have you plastigauged?

what is the history of the block and crank?

 

warped block @ mains or you did something incredibly wrong

 

what did u get bearings for? make sure you got them for a ls. one time i tried to use b16 bearings on a gsr and they were a little to wide and it was hard as **** to turn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how many times have you plastigauged?

what is the history of the block and crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I plastigauaged it once, and i just got info from the (present) owner of this block that it was a overheated block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">warped block @ mains or you did something incredibly wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know the steps from the top of my head, maybe the block is warped @ the mains because it was an overheated block.

 

check the crank clearence to sides.
0.15mm it's the clearence.
if the crank don't have this clearence replace to the old thrust washers and check again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delsol vti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the crank clearence to sides.
0.15mm it's the clearence.
if the crank don't have this clearence replace to the old thrust washers and check again </TD></TR></TABLE>

i rotate the crank with and without the thrust washers, and it still binds. deffinately not the washers binding it. either it's misalign at the mains,cranks bent or clearance is too tight. i rechecked the bearings and they were in contact with the cranks main journals. maybe i need to recheck the clearance again.

 

Make sure the caps where put back in order. If you swapped the caps by accident the crank would bind. I did this but with some eagle rods.

 

you can measure to kingdom come... warped block... happens a lot on OH engines...