Need help With SMOG plz.


Engine is a d16z6, No check engine light, Everything is on the paper up there, i dont know how to read that paper, all i know is that the guy said y timing was retarted (11btdc) Could that be why i failed? , Thanks in advance.
Everything was restored to stock, Stock muffler, Cat, resonator, intake, only using a dc header. how do i lower my hydro carbons by 25?
If i advance my timing to 17 , would that help? My o2 reads .4 at idle.
If i advance my timing to 17 , would that help? My o2 reads .4 at idle.
Set timing to spec. Probably not the problem The problem is that you either have an exhaust leak or your cat is shot. With a good cat you would see very low O2 numbers like 0.1 or 0.2 would be exceptable. 0.9 and 1.4 means the cat is not using the O2 and is exiting from the pipe.
So let me get this straight, Advancing my distributor will reduce unburnt fuel? and retarding it will let unburnt fuel pass by? Thanks for the help man
Smog man, but do you think my o2 is faulty?
Smog man, but do you think my o2 is faulty?
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You can try the timing adjustment and see. I don't think that alone will do it.
About the cat and O2... The cat's working temps are over 1600 degrees and needs the O2 to do it's job. If all is good the cat will use all of the o2 to convert the other elements, so if you have left over O2..... the cat isn't using it and that means the cat is not working up to par.
Hope this makes more sense.
And what about the o2 sensor? It might be bad but I see nothing that would point to that yet. It is reading at .4v Did you watch the voltage as you gave it gas? Watch the voltage when you apply throttle and make sure the voltage changes also.
Edit: As for timing changing HC's it will a bit but not as much as Nox which your car is not being tested for so I would recommend 1 degree above spec to raise the combustion temp to burn the fuel. I recommend 1 degree below spec to lower nox. As long as you are within spec you should be OK. And by spec I mean either at your spec or + or - two degrees. When I dropped my timing from 19 to 17 (My spec is 18) I only saw 5ppm drop for HC from 35 to 30
Modified by thesmogman at 4:51 PM 2/26/2008
About the cat and O2... The cat's working temps are over 1600 degrees and needs the O2 to do it's job. If all is good the cat will use all of the o2 to convert the other elements, so if you have left over O2..... the cat isn't using it and that means the cat is not working up to par.
Hope this makes more sense.
And what about the o2 sensor? It might be bad but I see nothing that would point to that yet. It is reading at .4v Did you watch the voltage as you gave it gas? Watch the voltage when you apply throttle and make sure the voltage changes also.
Edit: As for timing changing HC's it will a bit but not as much as Nox which your car is not being tested for so I would recommend 1 degree above spec to raise the combustion temp to burn the fuel. I recommend 1 degree below spec to lower nox. As long as you are within spec you should be OK. And by spec I mean either at your spec or + or - two degrees. When I dropped my timing from 19 to 17 (My spec is 18) I only saw 5ppm drop for HC from 35 to 30
Modified by thesmogman at 4:51 PM 2/26/2008
looks like to much fuel at low rpms and starts to head towards stoich at 2500. maybe leaky injectors. i will look in my books and see if i can find the exact problem.
A friend of mine just gave me a good reason why I might be running a bit rich, You think moving my O2 sensor from behind the CAT to infront of the radiator will change anything? Im using a dc obd1 header , should i use a obd0 header?
the o2 has to be at the headers its a pain i had some dumb macanic put mine in the rong spot and it drank gas like a **** so i relocated it and it works fine for me try at the header its the best bet
expletive it, i made an appointment to smog at 3pm today, I Set my timing at 17 btdc, i poured in a quart of denatured alcohol at a half tank of gas, and raised my idle to 1020, i hope to god this will help.
Okay I failed again, my Hc PPms were in the 200's at idle 960. He didnt print a sheet out because he didnt wanna charge me for the pretest, so i just left.
After he revs my car up to 2200 for 5 minutes, I throw a code 43, (fuel supply). And then i finally run good. This is very weird.
o2 sensor?
After he revs my car up to 2200 for 5 minutes, I throw a code 43, (fuel supply). And then i finally run good. This is very weird.
o2 sensor?
I'm going to assume this is a test only station?
My buddy is a smog tech at a test only station and although he's not obligated to do any repairs, he tell's me exactly what is wrong with the car and what I need to do to make it pass. Did the tech even try to find out what is wrong with the car or give you any advice?
SMOGMAN anything to add?
My buddy is a smog tech at a test only station and although he's not obligated to do any repairs, he tell's me exactly what is wrong with the car and what I need to do to make it pass. Did the tech even try to find out what is wrong with the car or give you any advice?
SMOGMAN anything to add?
Tech was kinda dumb, he thought i was running obd0, and told my i had two seperate codes, 4 and 3, crank angle and map sensor he said, I was just agreeing like ok man, It wouldnt even run with a bad map and crank. He stared at my ecu fora long time wondering where the little Red LED light was.
IDk, but this code 43 is screwing everything up!!!!!!!!!!!
IDk, but this code 43 is screwing everything up!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok i ran outside to check the Resistance on the o2 sensor, and im getting 22ohms, which is acceptable by the helms manual, but however i check voltage, AND im getting battery voltage on two of the wires during ignition, According to the helms, only one of my wires is supposed to be getting battery voltage.
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