DIY: 11.1" rear disc upgrade for Civics with 9.4" rear discs
Okay heres another DIY. This brake upgrade is for all you civics who have done the rear disc conversion. This uses a basic adapter bracket to relocate the stock caliper and use an 11.1" rotor for more brake torque, and better cooling. It can be had for 200$ for the adapters, rotors, and rings. This setup does not require a larger master cylinder or different proportioning valve, its is a 100% bolt on, no bleeding!!

Parts: Adapter plate, 14mm bolts, 11.1" rear discs (redrilled to 4x100), aluminum centering rings.
Tools: 14mm, 12mm, 10mm socket, socket wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm, wheel lock/lug nut adapter (if equipped).
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Park car on level ground, park or leave in 1st. Jack the car.
3. Remove 19mm lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Unbolt the 14mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. Move the caliper off the rotor, but do not let it hang by the brake hose.
5. Unbolt the 10mm bolt that holds the brake hose to the trailing arm.
6. Unscrew the phillips screws holding the rotor to the hub. If your car is old, you may need to use an impact wrench. If this is not enough, reattach the brake, engage the e-brake, and use the impact wrench again.
7. Put the centering rings on the hub.
8. Install the adapter via two 14mm bolts to the spindle and torque the bolts to 80lb-ft.
9. Put the 11.1" rotors on.
10. Put the caliper bracket onto the adapter and tighten the 14mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
11. Put the wheel on, and torque your lug nuts to 80lb-ft for steel wheels, 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels.
12. Lower the car.
13. Repeat for the other side.
14. Bed the brakes in via the standard brake in procedure. I reccomend 10 firm stops from 60-10mph.
15. Enjoy the benefits of your 11.1" rear discs!

by BrakeExpert

Parts: Adapter plate, 14mm bolts, 11.1" rear discs (redrilled to 4x100), aluminum centering rings.
Tools: 14mm, 12mm, 10mm socket, socket wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm, wheel lock/lug nut adapter (if equipped).
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Park car on level ground, park or leave in 1st. Jack the car.
3. Remove 19mm lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Unbolt the 14mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. Move the caliper off the rotor, but do not let it hang by the brake hose.
5. Unbolt the 10mm bolt that holds the brake hose to the trailing arm.
6. Unscrew the phillips screws holding the rotor to the hub. If your car is old, you may need to use an impact wrench. If this is not enough, reattach the brake, engage the e-brake, and use the impact wrench again.
7. Put the centering rings on the hub.
8. Install the adapter via two 14mm bolts to the spindle and torque the bolts to 80lb-ft.
9. Put the 11.1" rotors on.
10. Put the caliper bracket onto the adapter and tighten the 14mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
11. Put the wheel on, and torque your lug nuts to 80lb-ft for steel wheels, 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels.
12. Lower the car.
13. Repeat for the other side.
14. Bed the brakes in via the standard brake in procedure. I reccomend 10 firm stops from 60-10mph.
15. Enjoy the benefits of your 11.1" rear discs!

by BrakeExpert
Doesn't look like too great of a fit. For another $100, you could buy Powerslot's rear disc upgrade, and have a properly engineered fit.
There's also a little something extra in this link for those that have done the Integra spindle swap.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes...ode=S
There's also a little something extra in this link for those that have done the Integra spindle swap.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes...ode=S
Well if you have like 11.8" front brakes, this is a nice, easy pair for the back.
And the reason for this is, that its cheaper. That kit has slotted rotors, which I don't care for, but youd need to buy their rotors, where this uses a stock honda rotor redrilled to 4x100, so itll still be cheaper. And what do you mean doesn't look 'too great a fit'? Its perfectly centered and they are bolted down with OEM bolts on a carbon steel plate, its rock solid. How is powerslot any better? I don't know what they use, but these brackets are steel, hope theirs are too.
How do you drift a FWD car? wouldn't that be called 'dragging'? hehe
And the reason for this is, that its cheaper. That kit has slotted rotors, which I don't care for, but youd need to buy their rotors, where this uses a stock honda rotor redrilled to 4x100, so itll still be cheaper. And what do you mean doesn't look 'too great a fit'? Its perfectly centered and they are bolted down with OEM bolts on a carbon steel plate, its rock solid. How is powerslot any better? I don't know what they use, but these brackets are steel, hope theirs are too.
How do you drift a FWD car? wouldn't that be called 'dragging'? hehe
I'm not doggin' your drilling abilities or the effectiveness of the setup, that's not what I was talking about. There is more rotor surface than the pads can utilize; from the pics it looks like the friction surface is 1/4" to 1/2" taller than the pad. Not that it is an issue, just looks thrown together.
Also, I'm not big on slotted, either. My last experience with slotted rotors ended in premature pad wear and rotor damage.
Also, I'm not big on slotted, either. My last experience with slotted rotors ended in premature pad wear and rotor damage.
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Yeah you only use the edge of the rotor sort of. There is no upgrade that will use more of the rotor, sorry. The setup I have using the whole shiny area pictured MUST have a drum spindle, this is for people with discs. You cant have a 11" disc and a bigger pad on a disc spindle equipped car
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,679
Likes: 2
From: Where the wild things are in, NY, United States of America
well the only reason i raised an eyebrow about it because it just seems like more weight..... i don't know of anyone thats getting overheating issues with their rear brakes.... just seems like unnecessary weight IMO. cool if you have wilwoods or something massive up front tho.
Not really, the caliper is the same, the adapter weighs like nothing, and the rotor is shallow with a small hat, so it may weigh like a pound more than the 9.4" discs. Don't go with wilwoods, they flex too much and don't use dust boots (this makes rebuilding a part of periodic maintainence.
awesome upgrade IMO, I know where everyone is coming from about "is it nessecary to have so much brake in the rear". But the way I see it it isn't going to affect brake proportioning because its utilizing the stock rear calipers and porportioning valve, so I don't see it having any adverse effect. All I see is what he said, better cooling = less fade. And lets face it, stock rear discs look TINY, glad to see an upgrade for the rear finally
Thank you, glad to see someone might think its a good idea.
Fastbrakes and AEM call theirs upgrades to relocate stock calipers, thats why i called mine a upgrade. I guess we'll call it a 'relocator kit' though it does increase brake torque, so it does increase braking.
Fastbrakes and AEM call theirs upgrades to relocate stock calipers, thats why i called mine a upgrade. I guess we'll call it a 'relocator kit' though it does increase brake torque, so it does increase braking.
personally i think its a nice upgrade. its nice to see that you are living up to your name of "the brake expert" im still waiting for the weather to clear up so i can upgrade the front on my car.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,679
Likes: 2
From: Where the wild things are in, NY, United States of America
I wasn't trying to bash on your upgrade... I know your the king of friction around here... just voicing my opinion. And I'm a stocking wilwood dealer so rebuilding calipers isn't such a nightmare for me
Good **** as always tho. I'm sure some people will put it to good use.
Good **** as always tho. I'm sure some people will put it to good use.
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