Inputs on BMW M3 from previous owners...
Sorry to post this on a Honda forum but there is no point in asking this to a bunch of hard core M3 fans!!!!!
I have an opportunity to pick up a 99 M3 for around $6.6K from a BMW technician
(110 K miles, Dinan chip, Blisteins shock + H&R springs, Lightweight original L2 wheels). Very good condition. Very clean inside and outside…drives straight)Overall it FEELS its in very good mechanical condition. I think, the wheels alone go for around $800+ in BMW forums. Its not a clear title due to accident (replaced the hood, fender, bumper, some lights)
Anyway, I had/still have Integras ( 99 GSR) and Hondas and are spoiled by the
low maintenance and super reliability.
I do auto-X and attend HPDE's.
Question to previous BMW owners
1- How do you compare the maintenance and reliability of M3's compared to that of Integra ? Say a typical rotor + pad change, or a timing belt + water pump
2- How reliable they are with high miles? I had tracked my GSR at 160K miles...Is it easy to work on these cars?
3- Blisteins on the car are non adjustable….Any idea as to how good they are compared to a stock M3 suspension?
I know its subjective but let me ask this too…. On a fun factor for daily driving, where would you rate a GSR and an M3
thanks a lot!!
I have an opportunity to pick up a 99 M3 for around $6.6K from a BMW technician
(110 K miles, Dinan chip, Blisteins shock + H&R springs, Lightweight original L2 wheels). Very good condition. Very clean inside and outside…drives straight)Overall it FEELS its in very good mechanical condition. I think, the wheels alone go for around $800+ in BMW forums. Its not a clear title due to accident (replaced the hood, fender, bumper, some lights)
Anyway, I had/still have Integras ( 99 GSR) and Hondas and are spoiled by the
low maintenance and super reliability.
I do auto-X and attend HPDE's.Question to previous BMW owners
1- How do you compare the maintenance and reliability of M3's compared to that of Integra ? Say a typical rotor + pad change, or a timing belt + water pump
2- How reliable they are with high miles? I had tracked my GSR at 160K miles...Is it easy to work on these cars?
3- Blisteins on the car are non adjustable….Any idea as to how good they are compared to a stock M3 suspension?
I know its subjective but let me ask this too…. On a fun factor for daily driving, where would you rate a GSR and an M3
thanks a lot!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Question to previous BMW owners
1- How do you compare the maintenance and reliability of M3's compared to that of Integra ? Say a typical rotor + pad change, or a timing belt + water pump
2- How reliable they are with high miles? I had tracked my GSR at 160K miles...Is it easy to work on these cars?
3- Blisteins on the car are non adjustable….Any idea as to how good they are compared to a stock M3 suspension?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well first off, I'd run away. A car doesn't get a salvage title for a hood, fender, and lights. Especially an E36 M3, a 99 no less. It was most likely wrecked much harder than he is telling you.
Having said that, the E36 is a great car. Parts are a bit spendy, but they are quite reliable.
1) Reliability is similar for an OBDI E36. The OBDII cars are more susceptible to stupid electrical gremlins. There is a ****-ton more wiring to go wrong in an E36 than your Integra. The climate control will need to be replaced eventually, the LCD fails. There's no timing belt to wear, but the water pump is a weak point. It probably already has a metal impeller pump if it was owned by a BMW tech. Pads + rotors is significantly more expensive than an Integra, especially the rotors.
2) Fairly reliable. Things like timing chain tensioners and chain guides will need to be done eventually. Plan on eventually doing the head gasket if it hasn't been done already. If the car was ever ever ever overheated the head is warped if not cracked. These engines do NOT tolerate overheating at all. They are easy to work on, pretty straightforward cars. They go through control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and control arms faster than your Integra did. Check where the rear subframe mounts to the chassis, it can tear out or crack with track use, the condition is exacerbated by worn subframe bushings. Inspect the rear upper shock mounts, they all fail. If left unchecked, the sheet metal around the upper shock mount will be torn or cracked. The drive shaft flex-disk (aka. guibo) is a wear item and needs to be replaced periodically. Same with the center support bearing.
3) The factory struts aren't adjustable either, the Bilstein's are good for that car. on stock springs.
The car is a blast to drive. It's more comfortable than any Integra could ever hope to be and does everything very well. It lacks the edginess of an Integra, but the limits are higher. It's a more capable car all around IMHO.
Modified by nfn15037 at 5:30 PM 2/23/2008
Question to previous BMW owners
1- How do you compare the maintenance and reliability of M3's compared to that of Integra ? Say a typical rotor + pad change, or a timing belt + water pump
2- How reliable they are with high miles? I had tracked my GSR at 160K miles...Is it easy to work on these cars?
3- Blisteins on the car are non adjustable….Any idea as to how good they are compared to a stock M3 suspension?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well first off, I'd run away. A car doesn't get a salvage title for a hood, fender, and lights. Especially an E36 M3, a 99 no less. It was most likely wrecked much harder than he is telling you.
Having said that, the E36 is a great car. Parts are a bit spendy, but they are quite reliable.
1) Reliability is similar for an OBDI E36. The OBDII cars are more susceptible to stupid electrical gremlins. There is a ****-ton more wiring to go wrong in an E36 than your Integra. The climate control will need to be replaced eventually, the LCD fails. There's no timing belt to wear, but the water pump is a weak point. It probably already has a metal impeller pump if it was owned by a BMW tech. Pads + rotors is significantly more expensive than an Integra, especially the rotors.
2) Fairly reliable. Things like timing chain tensioners and chain guides will need to be done eventually. Plan on eventually doing the head gasket if it hasn't been done already. If the car was ever ever ever overheated the head is warped if not cracked. These engines do NOT tolerate overheating at all. They are easy to work on, pretty straightforward cars. They go through control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and control arms faster than your Integra did. Check where the rear subframe mounts to the chassis, it can tear out or crack with track use, the condition is exacerbated by worn subframe bushings. Inspect the rear upper shock mounts, they all fail. If left unchecked, the sheet metal around the upper shock mount will be torn or cracked. The drive shaft flex-disk (aka. guibo) is a wear item and needs to be replaced periodically. Same with the center support bearing.
3) The factory struts aren't adjustable either, the Bilstein's are good for that car. on stock springs.
The car is a blast to drive. It's more comfortable than any Integra could ever hope to be and does everything very well. It lacks the edginess of an Integra, but the limits are higher. It's a more capable car all around IMHO.
Modified by nfn15037 at 5:30 PM 2/23/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well first off, I'd run away. A car doesn't get a salvage title for a hood, fender, and lights. Especially an E36 M3, a 99 no less. It was most likely wrecked much harder than he is telling you.
at 5:30 PM 2/23/2008[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.... a 99 M3 with 110k miles books for 10K to 13K...getting hood, bumper, fender and lights from dealer, painting in a body shop etc could be a lot of money?? ...I think if its nearly 80% of the value of the car, insurance companies have to salvage the car by law ..
Well first off, I'd run away. A car doesn't get a salvage title for a hood, fender, and lights. Especially an E36 M3, a 99 no less. It was most likely wrecked much harder than he is telling you.
at 5:30 PM 2/23/2008[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.... a 99 M3 with 110k miles books for 10K to 13K...getting hood, bumper, fender and lights from dealer, painting in a body shop etc could be a lot of money?? ...I think if its nearly 80% of the value of the car, insurance companies have to salvage the car by law ..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks.... a 99 M3 with 110k miles books for 10K to 13K...getting hood, bumper, fender and lights from dealer, painting in a body shop etc could be a lot of money?? ...I think if its nearly 80% of the value of the car, insurance companies have to salvage the car by law ..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, but this accident could have happened in 2000 when the car was worth $35,000...so the accident could have been big. I would find out what year the accident happened which should give you a good idea of the amount of damage the car did obtain.
With that said, ive never driven a e36 m3, but if its anything like my e92 it is a fantastic car. Handles like a dream, motor is smooth as silk, fantastic brakes. They dont call them the ultimate driving machine for nothing.
Thanks.... a 99 M3 with 110k miles books for 10K to 13K...getting hood, bumper, fender and lights from dealer, painting in a body shop etc could be a lot of money?? ...I think if its nearly 80% of the value of the car, insurance companies have to salvage the car by law ..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, but this accident could have happened in 2000 when the car was worth $35,000...so the accident could have been big. I would find out what year the accident happened which should give you a good idea of the amount of damage the car did obtain.
With that said, ive never driven a e36 m3, but if its anything like my e92 it is a fantastic car. Handles like a dream, motor is smooth as silk, fantastic brakes. They dont call them the ultimate driving machine for nothing.
I already checked the carfax...the accident happend 7 months back when it had 105K miles on it....I guess the book value would have been almost in the same $10 to $13k range....
I was a longtime Honda owner (92 EG Si, 99 Civic Si) and switched last year to a salvaged title 97 M3.
I love it. I miss some things about the hondas for sure, but there really isn't much of a comparison between them, the M3 is just alot more car period. Faster, better handling, better brakes, more comfortable, etc, etc.
I have had it over a year, no issues at all.
I too was quite scared of the switch, as a Honda guy, you sure take advantage of the fact that they simply are dead nuts reliable, and with some mods, quite fun.
I had alot of money into my EM1, suspension, engine work (cams, ob1 switch, etc) ASR sway bar, brakes, all the usual track car bits. I was instructing at Mont Tremblant in QC, and bone stock E36 M3`s were killing me there, badly. They don`t so much at my home track, which is small and techy, but at the big flowy tracks, I would get murdered.
I got a good deal on my salvaged M3 (hurrican Katrina car, oh noes), so I took the risk and just did it. I checked it out before I bought it, ALOT, had a BMW tech rip it apart and look for water damage, etc.
I don`t regret it at all, and its a car that you can mod and make VERY fast, and keep for a long time and enjoy it, if you are iinto hanging on to stuff.
I plan to keep mine a long *** time.
I love it. I miss some things about the hondas for sure, but there really isn't much of a comparison between them, the M3 is just alot more car period. Faster, better handling, better brakes, more comfortable, etc, etc.
I have had it over a year, no issues at all.
I too was quite scared of the switch, as a Honda guy, you sure take advantage of the fact that they simply are dead nuts reliable, and with some mods, quite fun.
I had alot of money into my EM1, suspension, engine work (cams, ob1 switch, etc) ASR sway bar, brakes, all the usual track car bits. I was instructing at Mont Tremblant in QC, and bone stock E36 M3`s were killing me there, badly. They don`t so much at my home track, which is small and techy, but at the big flowy tracks, I would get murdered.
I got a good deal on my salvaged M3 (hurrican Katrina car, oh noes), so I took the risk and just did it. I checked it out before I bought it, ALOT, had a BMW tech rip it apart and look for water damage, etc.
I don`t regret it at all, and its a car that you can mod and make VERY fast, and keep for a long time and enjoy it, if you are iinto hanging on to stuff.
I plan to keep mine a long *** time.
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I wouldn't go for it unless you really want to drop some cash.
last year I bought a '95 325is for $4k. It was in a minor accident and the dealer said there was no frame damage. Wrong! $4,000 later I have a car that drives great, when it does
. It was my DD and once a month it just wouldn't start. The ecu broke twice in three months, they cost a grand each (seccond was covered in warranty). lca's were shot and many other bent parts. I then traded it in for a new audi and got only $2,500 for it. (yeah I got screwed) To answer your question tho...
1) If you want reliability turn around and don't look back. Things break very quick and frequently. However, if your good with a wrench you can fix just about anything on these cars as they are really fun to work on, (except the unibody frame which in this case is most likely bent). They are brilliantly designed. In addition most of the parts for this model are relatively cheap for a bmw. A break job if you do it your self is gona cost ~$200 if you do the work your self. Water pump is $60 and there is no timing belt for this model. Its a timing chain (not gona break) that needs tightening or replacing after ~150k miles. Belts are ~$50. The guibo will most likley need to be replace thats ~$80 plus a ton of work.
2) If properly taken care of these cars can run for ever. However that is rarely the case. 110k miles is about average but you should do a major tune up to make sure you in good condition and you'll be set for the track.
3) That suspension combo is tried and true and loved by many. Its a good step up from the stock M3 and a good HPDE/Auto x choice.
4) For a DD I would take the GSR hands down, cheaper and much more reliable. For a strictly track car the M3 is hard to be and much more fun to drive. RWD>FWD hands down.
I would personally not even touch that car because of the salvage. If you continue to look get it check out by a third party BMW mech!!! Heed my warning and don't make my mistake!!! I would look elsewhere and spend a little more. I would look at bimmerforums.com very knowledgeable people there.
Cliff notes: Salvage = run away, E36 M3 = Amazing car
last year I bought a '95 325is for $4k. It was in a minor accident and the dealer said there was no frame damage. Wrong! $4,000 later I have a car that drives great, when it does
. It was my DD and once a month it just wouldn't start. The ecu broke twice in three months, they cost a grand each (seccond was covered in warranty). lca's were shot and many other bent parts. I then traded it in for a new audi and got only $2,500 for it. (yeah I got screwed) To answer your question tho...1) If you want reliability turn around and don't look back. Things break very quick and frequently. However, if your good with a wrench you can fix just about anything on these cars as they are really fun to work on, (except the unibody frame which in this case is most likely bent). They are brilliantly designed. In addition most of the parts for this model are relatively cheap for a bmw. A break job if you do it your self is gona cost ~$200 if you do the work your self. Water pump is $60 and there is no timing belt for this model. Its a timing chain (not gona break) that needs tightening or replacing after ~150k miles. Belts are ~$50. The guibo will most likley need to be replace thats ~$80 plus a ton of work.
2) If properly taken care of these cars can run for ever. However that is rarely the case. 110k miles is about average but you should do a major tune up to make sure you in good condition and you'll be set for the track.
3) That suspension combo is tried and true and loved by many. Its a good step up from the stock M3 and a good HPDE/Auto x choice.
4) For a DD I would take the GSR hands down, cheaper and much more reliable. For a strictly track car the M3 is hard to be and much more fun to drive. RWD>FWD hands down.
I would personally not even touch that car because of the salvage. If you continue to look get it check out by a third party BMW mech!!! Heed my warning and don't make my mistake!!! I would look elsewhere and spend a little more. I would look at bimmerforums.com very knowledgeable people there.
Cliff notes: Salvage = run away, E36 M3 = Amazing car
This probably won't be helpful...BUT I'm on my second BMW. First car was a 330 and loved it. I liked the 335 and bought an '08 back in November. I have the extended service plan so I don't know what the costs of maintenance is...never had to pay anything. Both cars were/are an e90. But again, never had any problems except with getting the damn bluetooth to work right. Sounds like a good deal. Take it to another dealer and get them to look at it also get them to run the service record for you (but I would guess that since he's BMW tech he never entered the vin in the system for maintenance). Worst case, you get it, you don't like it, you sell if for what you have in it or take a $500 loss.
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