Whats going on guys? I'm gonna be chipping my S300 for the boost option but am unsure of which boost solenoid to get. Just looking for suggestions based on everybodys experiences. I know theres a bunch of different ones but would like to get the best one that will last. Just looking to see if people have had bad/good experiences and from which ones. I know of....

GM
AEM
Mac
Motech

Not sure which other ones there are...but if you could give me your suggestion with a reason why i'd appreciate it.

TIA

 

Hondata just released theirs for $100.
http://hondata.com/hondatasolenoid.html

 

i use the apexi currently with my s300, Looks identical to that hondata one but if mine ever goes out ill go with the hondata one!

 

I purchased the AEM because my builder recommended it. Haven't tried it out personally, but I hear good things about it if that helps.

 

Didnt realize hondata just made one. Like I said, i'm just looking for feedback as far as people having problems with certain ones, or ones that work great and hold boost rock solid...etc. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

looks like the aem and the hondata are the same as the MAC. i have the aem valve. ant it looks just like that

 

Since I can get the AEM and Hondata for basically the same price, I think I might just go with the hondata one. I guess you really cant go wrong with a product that is made by the same people as the EMS your running. Especially knowing that hondata usually puts a lot of time and testing into things before their released and know they work well at all levels without problems.

 

if you want the aem one, its made by MAC valves and you can get them through one of their distributors or tdautowerkes sells them. they are way cheaper because they dont have the aem markup

 

what about the gm solenoid....i recently purchased this one not knowing any better but if its worth it ill ditch it and upgrade to aem or hondata.

 

the GM solenoids are normally open solenoids as opposed to all the other solenoids that are normally closed. another words, if for whatever reason something goes wrong, the GM solenoid will go to max boost instead of going to spring pressure like the other solenoids. the hondata/aem/mac etc seem to hold boost more stable with better resolution as well. another advantage to the nicer solenoids is they are 1/8npt so you can run whatever kind of plumbing you want (push lock / stainless braided / etc) with the GM your stuck to rubber hose.

 

Perrin. There around 80$

 

eCtune solenoid work great and is the same as the AEM but cheaper in cost.

 

Grainger sells one of these for around $30. Any reason no one suggests these?

Link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6JJ52

 

aem here, mac selenoid...

 

this is what i used. if anyone has any more info, that would be nice...

 

The AEM/MAC/Apexi/Hondata/Ectune solenoids are all the same thing.
The GM solenoids have worked great for me in the past.
Some people report of temperature sensitivity.

 

has anybody tried using a greddy solenoid? I'm considering using mine, but with the high frequency fluctuations at high boost i get now i dont know if its the solenoid that sucks or the controller.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Grainger sells one of these for around $30. Any reason no one suggests these?

Link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6JJ52</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, no one buys them from Grainger because you can get them cheaper going directly to a Humphrey distributor. If you made a bulk purchase, like Perrin does, you can get them below $20/unit.

 

Here is a look at eCtune solenoid, it's a MAC solenoid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, no one buys them from Grainger because you can get them cheaper going directly to a Humphrey distributor. If you made a bulk purchase, like Perrin does, you can get them below $20/unit.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is neither here nor there, why is everyone suggesting Mac valves vs the Perrin/Grainger/Humphrey solenoid is my real question.

Also, do you really need a 3 port or can you get away with a two port? I've never played with EBCs. I always used the $20 homemade MBCs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is neither here nor there, why is everyone suggesting Mac valves vs the Perrin/Grainger/Humphrey solenoid is my real question.</TD></TR></TABLE>

because theyve been proven to work, so why not use them......... if you search you will find that people have reported problems with the grainger and humphrey solenoids.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is neither here nor there, why is everyone suggesting Mac valves vs the Perrin/Grainger/Humphrey solenoid is my real question.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you asked why people never used them, you never mentioned them in referrence to the MAC series.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, do you really need a 3 port or can you get away with a two port? I've never played with EBCs. I always used the $20 homemade MBCs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take a look at a hookup diagram with the solenoid utilizing the top port on an internal wastegate and have a think on it, as that is how they are typically used; increase the pressure applied to the top port allows you to increase the boost.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .adam. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

because theyve been proven to work, so why not use them......... if you search you will find that people have reported problems with the grainger and humphrey solenoids.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You operate an inductor rated at 5.4W at the wrong frequency, thereby dissipating more than 5.4W, and it burns up. Is this the solenoid's fault, or is it operator error? Humphrey is used by a number of reputable OEMs, I assure you they are not crap.

You have exactly the same problem with 100% of the MAC "this is the same as the AEM/etc solenoid!!111" part numbers that I see floating around. Somebody out there has it right, I am sure, but I haven't seen it yet. There are a rainbow assortment variety of coil power ratings, heat ratings, etc, in the MAC lineup.

Okay, looks like I need to whip out the Z meter and scope, make a writeup.

 

Im using the Ectune solenoid with my S300 and it works really well, I previously had the GM solenoid, the Ectune/MAC is MUCH better holds boost better and seems to boost up quicker

 

What frequency do these run at?

Apexi = 31hz?
Mac/AEM = ??
etc
etc

 

MAC solenoid controlled by motec.