DIY Extended Shifter- Somewhat ghetto style
Not to try and bite off of Bense's thread, i made my own extended shifter. This works well, and looks slightly similar to the Fastline Performance shifter. I am not responsible to any damage to either yourself or your car, be safe and have fun with it.
What you need:
Tap and Die Set
Hacksaw
Tapemeasure (I eyeballed it)
Vise
Torch

(1) 1/16"th thick---1/2"x 36" Round Tube Plain Hollow. Part # 030699361701

(2) 10 mm x 1.5 thread bolt. 100 mm To cut it down. Part #030699817481
Patience
How To:

Saw and Tap. Use 10mm by 1.5 of course

Cut pipe about 15 inches long, or to desired height. But remember, if you plan on bending it, that process will shorten it a little bit. It is always better to have a little bit to much that way you can cut off excess after test fitting it. You cant add more once its cut.

Tap Pipe all the way down with your tool. Make sure to do both ends. Clean out excess shavings with a quick blow (no homo)

Thread bolt into end of newly tapped rod and cut to desired height

No pictures of me with a torch and a vise, but just heat up the rod and SLOWLY bend in the direction you want it to go. Slow and steady is the key to this. Dip in cold water as the position is desired. Pretty simple once you start it. I did both a curved rod and an s-shaped one, but you can experiment.

How I bent mine

Put on your desired shift ****. GREX FTW
Install and enjoy. Works very well, and feels comfortable. Play around with it until you get it how you like. All in all this cost me around 15 bucks, and it is worth every penny. Very easy to take off and go right back to stock.
Pics installed



Please feel free to ask questions.
For A very messy car, but thats what 60 work hours a week does to ya
What you need:
Tap and Die Set
Hacksaw
Tapemeasure (I eyeballed it)
Vise
Torch

(1) 1/16"th thick---1/2"x 36" Round Tube Plain Hollow. Part # 030699361701

(2) 10 mm x 1.5 thread bolt. 100 mm To cut it down. Part #030699817481
Patience
How To:

Saw and Tap. Use 10mm by 1.5 of course

Cut pipe about 15 inches long, or to desired height. But remember, if you plan on bending it, that process will shorten it a little bit. It is always better to have a little bit to much that way you can cut off excess after test fitting it. You cant add more once its cut.

Tap Pipe all the way down with your tool. Make sure to do both ends. Clean out excess shavings with a quick blow (no homo)

Thread bolt into end of newly tapped rod and cut to desired height

No pictures of me with a torch and a vise, but just heat up the rod and SLOWLY bend in the direction you want it to go. Slow and steady is the key to this. Dip in cold water as the position is desired. Pretty simple once you start it. I did both a curved rod and an s-shaped one, but you can experiment.

How I bent mine

Put on your desired shift ****. GREX FTW
Install and enjoy. Works very well, and feels comfortable. Play around with it until you get it how you like. All in all this cost me around 15 bucks, and it is worth every penny. Very easy to take off and go right back to stock.
Pics installed



Please feel free to ask questions.
For A very messy car, but thats what 60 work hours a week does to ya
Trending Topics
Yes, ive always wondered, What are the advantages of this?
Or what's the point of it?
But to the OP, Good job none the less, looks clean.
Or what's the point of it?
But to the OP, Good job none the less, looks clean.
hahaha thats nuts man! I BET THE THROW IS RIDICULOUS...u prolly hit your stereo deck each time u shift to 3rd gear. hahahha nice job though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menappi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there an advantage to this , besides being closer to the driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but I feel only in race settings. Like you said it brings the shift **** closer to the steering wheel. This allows for minimal time between shifts reaching for the ****. This could essentially lead to faster times, but the gains would be nominal. This design however would not effect the shift throw, just how long it takes for your hand to reach the ****.
Yes, but I feel only in race settings. Like you said it brings the shift **** closer to the steering wheel. This allows for minimal time between shifts reaching for the ****. This could essentially lead to faster times, but the gains would be nominal. This design however would not effect the shift throw, just how long it takes for your hand to reach the ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhantoM.DA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, ive always wondered, What are the advantages of this?
Or what's the point of it?
But to the OP, Good job none the less, looks clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It comes in handy when racing, it gives you a shorter distance to shift from the steering wheel to the shift ****.
Or what's the point of it?
But to the OP, Good job none the less, looks clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It comes in handy when racing, it gives you a shorter distance to shift from the steering wheel to the shift ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which momo wheel is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the farbon fiber one....
the farbon fiber one....
All that just to minimize the distance from the steering wheel to the shifter, lol! my dads truck has a 2 foot long shifter like this in it..and lemme tell you, i hate that expletivein thing because of it. It's such a bitch to shift. yeah it may be closer, but you have to MOVE the shifter a longer distance, as in..your hand will be on the shifter LONGER because it is so far away.
pointless mod..nice craftsmanship though. I've never seen a race/track car with a 10 foot shifter.
pointless mod..nice craftsmanship though. I've never seen a race/track car with a 10 foot shifter.


